sblake01

I don't believe it matters which side of the the switch goes to ground as long as one wire goes to ground and the other goes to the solenoid. All the switch does is complete a ground.

I think the answers to most of your questions lie in that statement. You can adjust the vavles but I doubt you be able to stop the smoke and rattling w/o refreshing the rings, valve guides, bearings........

Don't know if a 75 would be the same but on my 78 that wire plugs in to the w/b wire that comes out of the bottom of the harness between the coil and the strut tower.

Well there's no such thing as a 240Z 2+2, and to say that they fit 240z, 260z, 280z is rather misleading since there is conditional interchangability especially with the 280z. To say "READY TO BOLT ON, ALL EXCELLENT CONDITION" on the heels of saying "WAS IN STORAGE WITH OUR OTHER CAR PARTS", "NOT REBUILT", and "FORGOT WE HAD IT".......well, let's just say the ad needs a little work. Those are 240Z carbureators. The carb guys here will say what year.

Like I said in the other thread there are two different valves depending on whether or not you car had factory air. I noticed you said vacuum (well you actually said 'vacume' and then 'vaccum') but your car doesn't appear to have factory air. So, make sure you get the correct heater control valve for your car or you'll be facing even more frustration. Look at the bright side: once you're done, you won't have to worry about that heater setup for about another 30 years.

Or find the right part. How many time do you want to be under that dash? I replaced everything with new parts. That was 6 or 7 years ago, not sure if you could find new stuff anymore.

It either lets hot water into the heater core or bypasses it depending on where it's set. Without the tube intact you'll either have heat all of the time or not at all or somewhere inbetween depending where it was when the tube broke but you wont have control of that without the tube.

You need it. From what I recall you'll either have heat all the time or never depending on where the setting was when the capillary tube broke. Problem is, I don't know where to suggest to get one. Took me a couple of months to find one. But I wasn't going to settle for a used one or put the old one back in after putting all that work into the heater. And there are two kinds. One for cars with factory ac and one for cars w/o factory ac. They are not interchangable.

Doesn't appear to have the 'knurl' on the ends. Hopefully your hoses will seal okay with that. What about the heater valve?

I have 2256014s on my car. My spare, which is the original, collapsable temporary that comes with the later S30s. Sure it's a mismatch. But I would only use it long enough the get the flat fixed. (If I ever have one....knock on wood!)

Why would you need to change the spare?

#14829 is the type. They describe it as double wall, stainless stel, 2.25" inlet, angle cut 4" diameter, 7" long tip, 5x8 oval body, 14" muffler body length. I almost bought that muffler for mine but the shop didn't have it in stock. I ended up with the Dynomax Super Turbo #17730 which is a double wall, aluminized steel, 2" center inlet/offset outlet, no tip, 4.25x9.75 oval body, 14" muffler body length. Not being stainless, the Dynomax costs less but has held up well in the 7 years or so I've had it on the car. Both have a nice tone as I have the Magnaflow #14316 on my 810.

That's pretty much where my tip is located. (mally's not Mike's-don't care for that one; it's not Yuban:)) Anything short of that probably puts the exhaust in that low pressure area between the car and the bumper and sucks the fumes right up the back of the car.

Bonzi shouldn't get upset. My Z has an older and younger sibling and there doesn't seem to be any rivalries. My Z has given lots of advice to it's younger sibling and the older one has hauled parts for both of them. It's a family affair.....

"Perfect body"? How's the rust? mudtoy should already have the tranny if the one in his parts car is any good. Virginia to Arkansas is what 850-900 miles? Might be worth the trip.

I've seen S30s with with built L6 engines with damage to the body, frame rails, body panels that no longer line up, etc. due to too much power. So imagine what a V8 can do to a car that wasn't designed to have that much power initially. Never seen it? 300 hp without issues? With no frame mods? Look closer.

I don't completely believe that as a blanket statement. According to the the microfiche, there's conditional interchangeability with the early N47 cam and none with the later one.

So, basically, proper repair is farther out of your budget than finding a better shell which you say is also out of your budget. I'd say, based on your situation as you describe it, you need to completely drop the idea until you can afford it. I don't think you realize the costs involved here. To do that car right, you'd end up spending more money it would cost to buy a complete, running car and certainly, more money than it's worth.

ROFLROFL

The Nissan part number is 27190-N3100 (ASSY-CONNECTOR-WATER) From Aug. 73. I bought one a few years back. Not expensive, it was under $12 from the dealer. Hopefully, they're still available. Did your heater core come with a new heater vavle? You might want to change that too while you're in there as well as all adjacent hoses and clamps. I did.

By asking the question in the first place, I was just being the standard deviant.

What are the odds of 8s being in the 1000s column in both VINs?

My supplier in Ontario, Ca. has that switch but he says any AC shop should be able to get them implying that it's a fairly standard item and the only difference being the length of the capillary tube which I believe is about 18" for the 280 setup. The price is about $33. Check with your local shop. That'll save you the postage.

I know what 'AFR' is but what is 'lambda'?

I saw the photos in your gallery. Fun job, isn't it? So the core is the source of the leak. Are you going to take it to a radiator shop? I ask because when I did mine, I tried that but it fell a part when he tried to disassemble it and I ended up having to buy a new one. Hopefully, your luck will be better.