sblake01

There are two types of radio setups in a 82 ZX. This may or may not make a difference when installing a stereo. The first scan is the standard type and the second is the electronic tuning type which is the same as shown in post #6. I 'landscaped' them so that they might be easier to read.

Actually, the test doesn't determine what the pump puts out. It determines whether or not the system discharge pressure is being properly regulated.

Not the same problem at all. The dash light dimmer has no control over the running lights.

I'll tell you what. Open up the distributor, take off the rotor and post a picture of it like that. In post #3 you are referring to the contacts in the distributor cap as points based on what I infer from reading it. The points being reffered to here would be on the braker plate below the rotor. If someone put a 71 distributor in it, as you said in post #1, then it would have points. Bill, according to everything I've ever read and seen, the 74 260Z was the first USA S30 with electronic ignition. Mat, the matchbox distributor you speak of didn't show up here until 1979. The 74-78 electronic ignition had the module in the passenger footwell above the fuse box.

It already has an ignitor and a hotter coil when compared to a points ignition. If you're talking about an aftermarket distributor and coil that would depend on how the car is used. If you're not racing, the stock setup is more than adequate. It's basically the same system used through 78 but there were slight revisions through the years. In 79 they went to the E12-80 matchbox type with the smaller module on the distributor instead inside the car. My 78 280z has the earlier electronic ignition and my 79 810 has the E12-80. I haven't had problems with either of them.

You haven't looked inside your distributor cap? You'll notice-No points. And the ignition module is a metal box located in the passenger side kick panel above the fusebox. 74 was also the first year that the fuse box was located there instead of in the console.

Nope, 74 260 was the first, and I've even heard, though I can't verify it, that some late 73s had electronic ignition.

I've been watching, but, so far, I've nothing to add. On a 280Z, the headlights would still work even if the ignition relay was bad.

Why? Your 260Z already has electronic ignition. And that's why you can't find a Pertronix listing for it.

You can't adjust the slave unless you have one of the earlier ones with an adjustable push rod. I'm not sure what you mean by 'tapping'. If there's any kind of clearance problem with the throw out bearing, there's no adjustment that will fix that.

That's the sleeve. The wrong one will bring misery. There are a few different ones:

Like I said, if he wants it, he's got it. We'll work out the details. Unless time is of the essence, I think the OEM part would be the most foolproof way to go. There's some semi-intricate machining on that part that may or may not make a difference compared to the one a machine shop would make.

PATZ, this is just a follow up to my previous post. I found a spacer. Now the only problem would be getting it to you over there. PM me if you're interested.

Graeme, as far as I know, and I've been around these thing for quite a while, your post is 100% correct. Patrick, if you can't find one or don't decide to have one made, I'm pretty sure I have one. I have to look through my stuff which may take a day or so and if it's not here, one on my parts car over in Upland. I don't need it and you can have it for the cost of postage.

Yeah, but is that really 'going back'? Kind of like the Twilight Zone episode with the airliner that gets lost in time warp or whatever and ends up in pre historic times. They started out in 1961 or so. When they go back in the other direction they end up in 1939 with no hope of doing it again becaue the plane wouldn't be able to withstand it again. And it ends with them circling around the aiport trying to figure out how to eplain themelves and the plane if they do land some 20+ years before they took off. Things seem to fit the times they were designed in or for. The concept of affordibility comes with a much bigger price these days.

I'm not looking for a retro z, ain't gonna happen. Besides, if that 'styling excercise' (that has now been pictured way more than necessary in this thread) was ever built, I doubt that it would be what you'd consider 'affordable' which was one of the selling points of the original car. I had one but that was 1970 and, like they say, 'you can't go back'.

You might be referring to the Cedric P130 engine which was a J20. It was an OHV straight 6, 1973cc, with a bore and stroke of 73x78.6.

I know. My issue is with with the naivety (and gullability) of the thread starter. I really should apologize for even posting that response.

Come on, John. They're talking about a 3" exhaust on his (zmaster's) car. Basically a stock 75 with a few issues. Coupled with a Fitch Fuel catalyst, a fuel pump reading of 0.03 volts, and whatever other nonsense he's posted about that car the last thing he needs is encouragement here.:eek:

96302-N4700 is the OEM part number. Though I've not tried to order one, it still shows as a valid number.

The first pic is a real car, the second is an artist rendering but that is the stock mirror. Where did get the notion that it isn't. The one thing I hate about the Datsun hobby is all the heresay, opinion not based on fact, repetition of what someone 'heard somewhere', etc. That mirror has been discussed many times, on this thread and others. And there is no right side version of it but IT IS STOCK! Intersting that you throw something like that out in your first post on this site.

Sounds like your front differential mount.

I've seen that before. IIRC, It was done by a Sweedish graphics arts designer/modler. (Correct me is I'm wrong, Mr. C.) So, no, it's not a real concept car. (Too bad!)

That's the one that's also on eBay being discussed here.

Like I said in the other thread, make sure the pointer and the mark on the pulley are 'spot on' before you set the dist drive shaft. You'll get it. I don't know how many times I removed and replaced the oil pump on my 510 (back in the day) until I got it right. Once you've been through that, I'll bet you'll never have a problem lining up an L series distributor again.