sblake01

Thinking about my response now because you said 'rotary'. So it's not the upright boxy looking York compressor that they used on a lot of those conversions? Do you know the brand and model number of your compressor?

You'll love that car. I really miss my 70.

You bought a new set of points, right? Not a breaker plate which is what the points mount on. At any rate, you're saying you got it running, right?

That should be R16. When I had my roadster, I used a thermostat that had some type of built in bypass and was referred to as a 'failsafe' thermostat. Mine was actually a 2 litre sroker but it was based on a R16 block with a U20 crank, rods, and pistons and a somewhat modified Datsun RL411 cast iron R16 head instead of the roadster aluminum R16 head. Never had any overheating problems with mine.

Lenz Distrubuting is much more reasonable. Look for Freeze 12 on that site and not FR12. Two different things. Freeze 12 is all refrigerant and FR12 contains hydrocarbons.

I believe that Nostalgic Air Parts carries the old York compressors. You might want to contact them to see if the one they have, which is listed as a 'Ford' York compressor is the same as the one you have.

I buy it from Lenz Distributing but your AC tech should have access to it. Does he have R-12? It's pricey but you only need a couple of lbs. @$20-30 per lb. Thats cosidrably more than R134a but better for your system in the long run. Your best bet would be to have him check the system and make sure there's no leaks. I'll check tomorrow to see if I can find one of those switches.

R12 is not NLA, just very expensive. I would suggest Johnsen's Freeze 12. It's the best R12 replacemant I've found. Been running it for a couple of years now in both my 78 280 non factory system and my 79 810 factory syste. R134a will cause problems in your R12 system. Trust me on that (see line #5 in my sig.). We've discussed that many times on this site. Unfortunately, I an nowhere near NJ. What part of your switch broke? The knob? The capillary tube?

Well, mine is a 280, and I'm not sure if this is a 240 problem or an S30 problem, but my extension is welded on and it extends roughly 1" beyond the bumper, which is a bit farther back because it's a 280, but I've never had a problem with fumes getting either into the cabin or on the bumper. I would imagine that if you had exhaust getting into that area between the back of the car and the bumper, either from the end of the shorter extension or the area where the screws are on the longer one, the fumes would have a better chance of entering the car through any imperfection in the rear panel or hatch seal.

Possible leaking heater core, leaking heater valve, or one or both of the hoses that connect to the heater valve.

Could also be cracks in the boot between the throttle body and the air flow meter (not air mass sensor-these systems aren't that sophisticated). That would cause a vacuum leak that would appear worse on acceleration/deceleration or a quick rev. No oxegen sensor on a 78 but a bad temp sensor would cause a rich fuel mixture once the engiine was warm but you said the plugs were clean and there was no exhaust smoke so you can probably rule that out.

That's basically what I was going to say. You might try extensions that actually fit the pipe diameter and have them arc welded on.

Your question: Isn't this the answer?:

Looks totally different from any E12-80/93 I've ever seen but we didn't get C210s here. The E12-80 distributor didn't show up here until the 79 model year.

Judging by the picture, I'm not even certain of that beinig a Nissan distributor. At least, not like any I've ever seen. The screws that affix the module are on opposite sides from where they are on the Nissan distributor. And the body of the distributor looks different from any E12-80/93 distributor I've ever seen. Does the distrubutor have a part number on the body (opposite side from the pictire behind/below the vacuum pot)?

This is from the 'Datsun Engine Analysis-Performance and Emissions 1970-1980' manual. Not really a test of the realy but a test of the system.

The Datsun EFI can be reliable if the components are in good shape and you know the system but I wouldn't suggest swapping it over to a non EFI car. That's been discussed many times here. Much more work than you'd imagine.

The water temperature switch is referred to as THERMO-SWITCH in Ron's attachment. I guess that doesn't help you much, really. Aren't we "competent auto technicians"? There has to be a test somewhere for that relay. Perhaps in the FSM?

You still need to see why your fuel pressure is high. 4 to 6 psi over the preferred regulated psi would be enough to make your car run rich. If you disconnect the fuel line from the cold start valve, malke sure you plug it well. I'd save that AFM adjustment until you've tried the other things you mentioned. Unless you have experience with that type of adjustment, that's an easy way to make things worse.

You'd be better off finding another body with good floor pans. That would probably cost less than fixing that one. I don't know about your state but there are lots of S130s in the junkyards here.

Again, two things: 1. 78 280Z's DID NOT COME WITH AN ORIGINAL RIGHT SIDE MIRROR! 2. THE ORIGINAL POSTER ASKED THIS QUESTION TWO YEARS AGO!

I don't quite get your answer. The dashpot and altitude switch are two different things. Both can have an effect on your idle speed. The dashpot can be adjusted and to some extent, so can the altitude switch.

A few things to check for running rich would leaking fuel injector(s) or cold start valve, bad connection at the temperatrue sensor or bad temperature sensor, improperly adjusted or bad throttle position switch, or bad fuel pressure regulator. I see you've run most if not all of those tests but the reading you give 40-42 psi is about 4-6 psi too high.

179 bucks? I made my own tools for the two functions you mention from some wire, a 9 volt battery, and some old EFI parts and spent the money I saved on a dual guage fuel injection canister cleaner and still had about $50 left over from what you spent. Those tools from NAPA are nice if you have modern fuel injection but really not necessary on the old Nissan EFI.