sblake01

Did I miss something here or isn't that what she's doing?

And a pretty healthy Z to keep that motor from twisting the car into a pretzel.

That depends on your definitinon of 'a better one'. Nothing wrong with a stock clutch if as you say you "don't race-much".

Well, over in the other thread, I don't think you properly bled the system. Even with a new clutch, which at this point I don't think you need, you'll still be facing the same problem if you don't solve that first.

Don't know how much it helps but the one in my 78 is 14" x 20". It's been there for years with no problems. It may cover a large percentage of the radiator but the air does pass through it. Looking at my wife's HHR, the condenser seems to cover the entire radiator.

Our three day forecast is acutally a little better than Rick's in Australia. Today: 85(29C), Saturday: 89(32C), and Sunday: 92(33C). I think my conversions are correct, it's been many years since grade school, or school period. The show I pictured is about a once every 4 or 5 year occurence here. But I'm not gloating. Everywhere has it's wheather quirks. The wind we get here sometimes feels like it will pick your car up off the road. We live in whats basically a mountain pass. I won't drive the truck or the Z when it's like that. Earthquakes? Well that's another story.

Mine is a cheap, under $4, Harbor Freight item.

Well, I don't like to check spark that way. I know people do that and talk about doing that but there is a risk. Not so much when you have point ignition but when you have electric ignition it just takes one spike/surge to blow the IC unit. I use and inline spark checker.

Did you bleed the clutch after you did that?

Might also check your EFI electrical connections under the hood, especially at the temperature sensor.

It's a drop in if you don't use the EFI and use your carbs instead. But in the case of a turbo engine, if you did that, you wouldn't be able to use the turbo which kind of defeats the purpose of buying a turbo engine. Plus, with carbs, that head/block combo will be low on compression ratio.

Sounds like you have air in the hydraulic system probably caused by a leak. What do you mean by 'changed it out' in your earlier post? You have to bleed a hydraulic clutch like you do brakes. Do you see any evidence of a fluid leak on either the master or the slave cylinder? Your comment "Now the clutch pedal is really really easy to depress" makes me think you have a leak.

If that's your car before installing the new starter, don't install it, take it back and get a refund because there's nothing wrong with your starter. Not saying I know why your car won't start but the starter is fine. Sounds just like mine.

Another Franken-K.

Don't forget the fuel pump, fuel lines, filter and bracket, damper, relay boxes and relays, and I'm sure there's other things but it's been years since I've done of of those conversions.

Are you planning to use the EFI, the turbo (you did say ZXT). If so, you're going to have a lot more to worry about than what air cleaner to use. The simple answer is no because that air cleaner is designed for carbs and you'd be better off with the correct air cleaner. Are you also installing the electronics that go with the ZXT engine? Do you have the wiring harness from the ZXT? The fact that you asked the initial question makes me wonder if you really know what you're getting into.

We get 110 degrees here....sometimes this too: In another month or so, we'll all be driving our Zs.

Fastest car I ever rode in was a Ford, but it didn't have a truck motor....my brother's Boss 429.

One of the main reasons I think the California biennial smog check is such a joke. Sniffer in the tailpipe, 15 and 25 mph. Basically first second gear in any transmission at speeds you'll never drive for any length of time to matter. Plus those speeds would be achieved at different RPM depending on the gearing of the car tested. Ludicrous. End of mini-rant. Back to topic: That's why I bought one of those meters that you can stick in the tailpipe. So I can check the average readings before a smog check. But I doubt the adjustments that put it in range to pass the test result in anything close to a 'performance' tune.

For 800 bucks.....You Scored!

I stand corrected. The Motorsport connector is the quick release type. Don't know where they get theirs from but the quick release clip makes them much easier to work with once they're installed.

Those are all pretty much the same connector. Here a good read on injector connectors. Especially page 2. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929

Oh, that test. I've done that. I thought you had found a way to test an E12-80 off the car. That would keep me from having to test the ones I bring home from the junkkyard by installing them on a know working car.