sblake01

The front one? I don't know if the AFM to air cleaner boot will really cause the car to act up. I've run mine with that one completely off when I'm running throttle body cleaner through the intake and the car runs fine without it.

Are you talking about an EFI car? If so, then you had a component related problem. Remember, I did say "if everything else is working properly".

Don't know if I'd agree with that, in fact I know I don't. My Z has hood vents but my 810 doesn't. I've had the two cars a combined total of 17 years and the only times I've ever experienced any thing like that, it turned out to be electrical or component related.

Mel, you have what is listed in your profile as a '1979 280Z'. I'm sure you mean 'ZX'. He has a 75 and his ignition module is inside the car in the passenger footwell and not subject to engine heat. Look like you're bored and trolling through old threads. If you're going to do that, add something pertinent or just let it go.

Hey, Mel, you answered a post that was basically a hijack. No one is going to find your answer unless it's either by accident or that they've somehow developed the notion that they should look for answers to suspension questions in a thread entitled "Gaskets for Z".

Besides, once you shake up the 'goo', it's still 'goo' and it's not comming out of the tank that easily, not all of it. Sure, the stuff that will reach the drain hole or the filler neck/sender holes when you turn it upside down will come out but the stuff that stays inside the baffles, nooks/crannies won't. BTDT. It will still have to be professionally cleaned and those guys, or at least, the one I took mine too, know what they're doing. My car had sat for five years and the tank was toast. I tried pouring different things in it to clean it out but it didn't really work. I had that thing off 3 or 4 times attempting to clean and rinse it out. I finally bought a tank from a running 77 but I still had it profesionally cleaned. No probs since. That was over ten years ago.

I personally think that Nissan was just trying to add something different to their last go rouund of the S30. JMO. Look how fancy they got with hood vents on the ZXs. Are those things even open? Sorry Zx people, but I really don't know.

Possible, or anything loose. I had loose bolts on my AC bracket once and that caused a noise at higher rpm.

I don't think you have to be a member to subscribe. Subscription

Yes, the hoods are interchangable. I've seen many 77-78s that have swapped on the solid hood.

From the JNC site where I'm also a memer. (810-again)

If that were the case, the ~37psi would push the air bubbles through and at worst, if everything else is working properly, you'd feel a couple of 'hiccups' and keep on going.

Here's a link to one on eBay right now. It's from reddat. He has good sutff but never tells you the shipping cost until you buy the item. I won't buy from him but because of that though others here have. You may want to try the number in the last post at a dealer first. If they have it or can get it, it will surely cost less than reddat's once he tacks on his unreasonable shipping. reddat's 5/77 up boot

The signal goes through other sources before it gets to the relays. A bad ignition switch or ignition relay could prevent the signal from getting to the relays. I've tagged the relays in your picture. You really need that 78 FSM. Don't shoot current through those relays until you read the test procedures in the EF section because you could damage them. I doubt that they're bad anyway and your problem probably lies elsewhere. EDIT: TomoHawk is a faster typist than me but I thought you'd understand it better if I used your picture.

You've taken road trips with his girlfriend? (I'm sorry, Carl, Andy and everyone......I couldn't resist)

Some people will argue that point, however.

He has an 82 ZX according to his prrofile. Here's the dash:

EFI cars don't vapor lock.

I don't know what that picture is. Are you talking about the rubber boot between the AFM and the throttle body? 16578-N4710 is the part number for a 78. Make sure you don't confuse it with the boot that goes between the throttle body and the air cleaner.

According to Ron's diagram, you'd connect the red wire beyond the diode. The current appears to flow away from the diode based on the direction the triangle is pointing. In other words, soleniod, diode, and connection in that order. Not certain since my 78 doesn't have that but that's how I read the diagram.

You don't need to feel like you're wasting our time. That's a legit question and you seem to have researched it an not found an answer. At least, not a correct one. I searched for that relay when I bought my car ten years ago. Everyone said it was under the dash. Not on a 78. The dropping resistor is behind the washer bottle, under the driver's side inspection lid and I think that's true on all years of the 280Z but the EFI main relay in in the relay box under the hood, behind the passenger side strut tower on a 78.

The EFI relay is the top one in the relay box under the hood on a 78. The dropping resistor is located behind the wiindshield washer bottle.

Hood vents were standard on the 77-78 280Z. Those hoods will fit the earlier S30s.

It's actually 4" O.D. but it is 'resonated' so the I.D. is smaller at 2 1/4". Kind of mellows out the exhaust note.

I was assuming that the wires were already there and just broken off at the switch,