sblake01

Most people I've seen with those run a 390 CFM Holley.

3 for NOT and I didn't even have to scroll past the small picture at the top!

So it's currently registered as a 75? I don't know how Oregon works (even though I was born there) but in California it would be difficult but do-able . We start with a 'Statement of Facts' form and go from there.

My most recent "captain dumbass" episode was when I had removed the console to replace the shift boot and when I put it back on, I somehow got the wire that goes to the ashtray light between the mounting screw tab and the console. I even thought to mysely "that screw didn't go in as easily and it should have" but after I put it back together I didn't think about that. Of course, every time I turned on the lights, I blew the fuse. I was about three days before I finally figured it out.:stupid:

Great advice from Carl. Aftermarket O2 sensors? Do you understand the function of an O2 sensor? Don't get caught up in product claims. If you added up the HP from each of the items found in the local autoparts stores you'd probably end up with about 300-400 extra HP just from bolting them on! Of course, common sense should tell you that's not true. If every pay check you put a little more into your car, what do you spend it on? Other than gas/maintainence, the last time I spent money on my Z was to register it.

Well, I'm an HVAC/MVAC tech so I have gauges to check that. You'll probably have to go to an automotive AC shop. Do you know if your car has 'climate control' or regular AC?

Just to clarify, is the pedal always low or does it gradually go to the floor while you're stopped? If that's how it happens you still have air in the lines or a minor leak at one of the cylinders, wheel or master.

Allow me to help rid you of that misconception. That website is WRONG! It's not only wrong about the 260Z but also in other areas. All USA 260Zs are 1974 year model. Some inadvertantly have been registered as 75s because of the late build date. That would have made it tough to pass the smog check since the computer would try to test it with lower limits as if it had fuel injection. Nissan was late in the development of the 280Z so they built the late 74 260Z with the 280Z body minus the fuel injection and attending electronics that go with it. But they are all 74s. And your problem does sound like your pump is trying to pull fuel through clogged line or a clogged tank.

So your periodic rough idle and shut down problem is solved?

Water temperature sensor. I didn't notice it on your list but I assume that you checked the connection there. If the sensor is bad it will run okay cold but as the engine warms up, the sensor is supposed to decrease in resistance as the water temp rises. If it doesn't the fuel enrichment and pulse stays the same as if the engine was cold.

Like I said in the other thread, your ac wouldn't come on if the ac realay was missing. Check your low pressure cutout switch. It's located on the receiver/drier. That can be done by removing the two connectors from the switch and connecting them together. If your ac comes on and stays on either the switch is bad or there isn't enough pressure to keep the compressor running. A word of caution: Don't run it too long that way. If the pressure really is too low, bypassing the switch can cause compressor damage. When the switch is good it will turn off the compressor at anything below 28 psi low side pressure. Have you had the your ac pressure tested?

Possibilities: Hoses/check valve: 1. Bad hose between intake manifold and check valve 2. Bad hose between check valve and booster 3. Leaking check valve Booster itself: 4. Dislodged reaction disc 5. Leaking push rod seal 6. Leaking between valve body and seal 7. Leaking valve plunger seat 8. Bad diaphagm 1-4 can be repaired/replaced the rest would require a new booster.

Wasn't stock, not as a factory or dealer installed option on a 280Z although the 77 and up 810 had it as a factory option so the technology was there for it.

It doesn't

Maybe not in terms of clarity, but size? 2304 x 1728? Mike, if you see this maybe a size limit for hosted photos in the posts needs to be imposed.

NISSAN 16546-E3210 (In stock at Nissan Parts.cc)$14.94+$9.95sh OEM is also shown as 16546-00006 at Courtesy Nissan $16.93+sh AC A827C FRAM CA2749 MOTORCRAFT FA758 PURO A33544 WIX 42293 BECK ARNLEY 0428201

Looking back at this 3+ year old post while searching for something else, I saw this statement I made back then. I have since learned, about three years ago, that I was wrong!:stupid: 75-77 has the contact points, 78 and beyond doesn't.

The 79 AFM will work in a 76 but you'd have to bridge the two wires that go to the fuel pump contact points in the AFM plug on your 76. Otherwise the car wouldn't run. 78 and up AFMs don't have those. Only an AFM from a 75-77 will work in a 76 without having to bridge those wires. Al's will plug right in and work from the get go.

I suppose. But you were asking about a 78, he was asking about a 75, my answers didn't really help you or him since your initial question was vague, his initial question was only mimimally related, you found your own answers, which is what I do basically all of the time and he's still searching because his car is a previous owner botch job. And you'll notice that the 3 of us are the only ones in this thread because it basically goes nowhere. Maybe that's why I'm becoming more and more relucatant to answer questions that are of that nature.

I don't believe Pace Setter/Monza sells that tip by itself anymore. If they ever did. I doesn't show on their site.

Good luck with that.

Thanks Carl. That is Eric's pic. I was going to do what you did to it but I really just wanted to show the different lengths. Mike, I don't think any of them are 'better/stronger' than the others. It's just causes problems if you mix and match.

Electronic.

All through this thread, I thought you were talking about the links on the back of the relay box based on your posts 1 and 2. Had you said 'under the white plastic covers', if indeed that's what you meant, I could have saved you all that extra reading and this thread could have been cut by about 11 posts, if you cut out zmaster's hijacks.