sblake01

Take a look at the connector on the bottom of the AFM itself. Does is have pins all the way across ore does it appear to be 'missing' the last two? If it's missing the last two, you have to jumper the two wires on the plug that correspond with with where those two pins would be on the 75-77 AFM.

It's not in the hose. He's talking about the steel net, number 8 in the illustration:

I assumed the block was straight because of the comment in the middle of post #5.

Check the head for straightness. As far as head gaskets go, I like OEM but I've used Fel-Pro with success though some refer to them with the acronym 'Fail-Prone'.

Those look like the Rally wheel caps. I've also seen them on the smoothie wheels. Zooming in on Hassan's wheels, I don't think they're the same.

Dropping resistors? They don't have anything to with the headlights. Just another eletrical item, in this case part of the EFI system. Nothing is getting power as per post #8. I'm still at a loss though the negative polarity at the ignition relay is kind of scary.

Who is Lisa-Adam and why did she quote someone without noting that it was a quote? Strange indeed.

You might want to go to http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html and download the Model L20A, L24 Series Engine Service Manual. In section EF Fuel System, pages EF-5 through EF-16, there's good coverage on the DAF342-6A, DAF342-8A, and DAF342-9A carbs.

It's not a switch. It's a thermister (I think that the electrical term). It starts with a higher resistance when the engine is cold and decreases the resistance was the coolant temp rises. It changes the fuel enrichment and fuel injection pulse as the engine warms up. If you jump it I'm not sure that will accomplish what you're trying to accomplish.

That really depends on what type of 'performance' you're referring to.

The only translation I need is that it's up to $23,734.98 USD now!

Fair enough but when I think of tips, I think of something like these: or these:

I don't know. The factory gauge will tell you if the engine is hot and the extra gauge will tell you exactly how hot. I can do the same with my laser thermometer without having to have software or figuring out how and where to mount extra gauges. Especially if you have to go under the hood anyway to do the comparison.

That's actually a system, not a tip. The rear section is designed to fit over the front section so naturally it would be larger than the stock pipe.

It's not the head gasket and things of a mechanical nature that you'd have a problem with. It's the things unique to those cars like exterior and interior trim, glass etc.

I'd lean towarards the water temperature sensor or it's connection. If it were the thermotime switch, it would take less that 15 minutes for the symptoms to show since that would likely lead to constant flow through the cold start valve.

And I still don't get it. To me, E is right. Linguistic legerdemain:rolleyes:

Best I ever got in my 78 was 27.8 on a trip to Solvang and back last year. I had cleaned the injectors and decarbonized the engine just prior to the trip.

I'm running XP Pro Corporate Edition and that doesn't work for me. I just use Google translator.

Both of those cars need a lot of work. By the time you finished that 280Z, you'd have more money in it that buying a running complete one to start with. The unique parts for a 610 coupe are probably as hard if not harder to find than they are for an 810 coupe. I visit 8 local juniyards a rarely, if ever, see any 610s in them.

Yeah, I didn't get that either. I've actually used my laser thermometer to check against the guage reading and it's close enough for the purpose of knowing what temp the fans come on at. But the guage isn't part of the fan circuit so I don't understand the gist of Troutman's question or ktm's answer.

Problem is that those carbs (or any triples) pull so much vacuum that, with those and the brake booster, there isn't enough vacuum to move the advance mechanism no matter where you tap the vacuum from. BTDT. Best thing to do is a custom curve on the centrifugal advance or remove it all together and use a fixed breaker plate. Just plugging the advance pot does nothing on a stock distributor. The breaker plate will still move on it's own when the distruburor turns and not in a way that works well.

A quick trip through the currency converter says that the current bid is $7,689.35 USD!

I was actually offering to give him the relay. I have collected several over the years and have a couple of extras. He'd just have to make the mod to it so it would fit properly on his bracket.