sblake01

I'm not sure that your car would run ore even start all if the ignition relay was bad. The gauges you mention also have a fuse in common, 4th one down on the left side of the fuse box. Have you checked that?

That's 'Huntington' Beach.

Pro Inject-R Kleen is just what the name implies. D-karbonizer is similar to Seafoam but stronger. As in you only have to do it once. Seafoam could take two or more applications. I used to use Seafoam but I like the results with OTC's products. Are you asking how can you, as in anyone, tell if things are decarbonized or how can I tell? I use a boroscope. A rather pricey tool but I've used it enough to cover the initial cost. I don't think it would 'hurt' anything to do it twice in a month with seafoam but it's not necessary. I do the D-karbonizer treatment and the fuel injection cleaning about once every year and a half or so.

One other thing. If you need a service manual, go to this site. He doesn't have an 83 manual yet but the 82 manual will help with the majority of issues you may run into.

I just looked at an old thread and according to Will: Take a look at these two scans. They show the circuit and the location of the circuit breaker.

Welcome, and congratulations. I don't think there are any relays involved in the power window circuit other than the ignition/accessory relay. If that was bad you'd have other problems. There is a circuit breaker and a 'one touch' power window unit, as well as both motors. Also, the right side (sub switch) feeds through the left side (main switch), so if it's bad, it can keep them both from working. Hard to say what part isn't working. I would troublesoot it before I started buying parts if I were you. Electrical bits aren't cheap. There are tests in the service manual. Don't expect to find much as far as the specialty parts on those cars at local auto parts stores. Many are still available at the Nissan dealer. And there's always the junkyard as well as members of this site to help with parts. I'm not really a ZX guy though I've worked on a few of them. There are other here more knowledgeable when it comes to the ZX.

I have a 78 280Z w/AC and I live in Southern California. It tops 100 degrees in the summer here. I replaced my radiator with a Modine #634 3 row which is an OEM type brass/copper radiator and I've had no overheating problems even on the hottest days. It even has a limited lifetime warranty, however that works.

This is the fuel injector cleaning tool that I mentioned in the previous post. The first tip is for the EFI cars. The cannister connects to your air compressor and the fuel pressure can be set with the regulator on top of the cannister. Attach it to your fuel rail where the line from the fuel filter goes, plug the return line below it, unplug the fuel pump relay, set the fuel pressure to about 30psi, open the valve on the bottom of the cannister, start the car, and let it run until the solvent runs out. Next to it is the cleaner I use. It's important that you plug the return line as you don't want the solvent to get in the gas tank. It's also important to disable the fuel pump so it doesn't pump fuel from the tank during the operation. The other can to the right is used to decarbonize. This can be done on EFI or carbed cars. Without the compressor connected to the cannister and it's pressure regulator turned off, connect the cannister to a vacuum port on the intake such as the one for the brake booster, start the car and slowly open the valve on the bottom of the cannister and little by little let the decarbonizer into the port. If you let too much in at one time, the engine will stall. It'll smoke like crazy until all of the solvent clears but, when you're done, your piston tops, valves, and combustion chambers will be clean.

I don't know. I used Lime Away and a bottle brush on the inside. It looked much better when it was done but I don't think you can ever make them look 'new'.

I didn't see that......:stupid:

Arne knows how to get to most from them, even his parts cars:

Oh, I think she'd go for a bit more than that.......

^^^^^^^

The one Jon posted is also available for download on the xenons site.

You must have missed this thread.

Sorry Mark. Not wanting to pull the fan off of one my cars to show the difference, it was the only one I could find. Got that a while back so I didn't recall where it came from when I posted it. I marked it in case I ever need to use it again.

I love quotes like that in ads! The real truth being that if I had a car for sale and it met the reserve and I was happy with the amount I received, what happens to it after the new owner takes ownership is out of my hands. Oh sure, I'd hate to see a FRP car turned into a 4X4 but what could you do?

Not a heater hose I hope. When I set out to replace the hoses on my Z and my 810 I discovered that the original hoses were NLA. Finding actual emission hose in that size took a while but I finally found it at NAPA.

Err....okay.

^This ones going straight to the ignore list before I get myself in trouble again.

Having done both, swapping the sleve is easier.

I'm with TomoHawk on that one(!) I took that thing out long ago (#5) on both of my cars when I replaced those hoses. I've had no problems running without them. I reacall that I couldn't find the original hoses and I couldn't see stuffing that thing in the new, and pricey emission hose. I remember takling to my buddy who has run a Z repair shop for over 20 years and his take was also that it is not needed. And trykflyr, I don't really get your post but I hope you get it figured out but I think you're over thinking it. (JMO)

I'm not even going there. That's for another fourm. All I did was post some pictures.

The speedo gear on a 75 4 speed is the same type as the one on a 280ZX. The reason you would change it is to match up with you car's present differential ratio. Put the speedo pinion from the four speed into the sleeve from the five speed. The reason being that the offset is different and the 280Z four speed sleeve won't work in the 280Z 5 speed .

I don't recall anyone saying that.