sblake01

Now you're basically looking at leaky injector(s) or cold start valve, bad thermotime switch, or fuel pressure regulator.

Yep. If you do a valve job on a motor that has some miles on it, you'll have do the other stuff sooner than you may have planned so you might as well do it all at the same time.

We were actually over 100 last week and the weekend. Now it's cold and rainy. As far as taking those pictures goes, I really wouldn't want to be that close to it!

Air Flow Meter.

I tend to stay away from those guys. I recall at a show years ago that one of them asked me if my 1970 1600 roadster was a kit car.

I've come up with a way on the EFI cars to help pinpoint a common problem. Using my fuel injection cannister cleaner the other day to clean out the injectors on my daughter in law's car (non Datsun), it dawned on me that I could fill the cannister with gasoline, set the pressure in it to 36 or so, attach it to the fuel rail, unplug the fuel pump relay so it doesn't pump, and run the car off the cannister. If the car runs right off the cannister, but not when normally hooked up, then the problem is either in the tank or lines or the fuel pump itself. Not sure I explained that clearly enough, but at least I understand it.

For the hassle involved in correcting that gap, I'd just leave it alone. Mine looks pretty even. And looking at my car, I'm wondering if the issue you describe would really be with the doors or the fenders.

Speaking of fans, some years back I noticed that some cars got 7 blade fans and some got 8 blade fans. Probably the 74-78 factory AC cars got the 8 blade ones. Don't know how much difference it makes but, since then, I've always used the 8 blade fan.

This is right down the hill about 20 miles from where I live. Maybe normal in the midwest/east but somewhat strange here. Photos courtesy of Moreno Valley resident Michael Ritter

Which car? The 260 or the 280ZX? All ZXs have AC. 260Zs...not so much. Does the one in question have existing AC with missing or bad components or are you talking about installing a complete system?

Cleaning the AFM connection can't hurt. I actually meant not to attempt to adjust it. I've seen many posts where people have opened up the AFM in attempt to solve a problem that really had nothing to do with it and ended up creating new issues on top of the existing problem.

I'd leave the AFM alone for now. It wouldn't cause a tach spike. Usually, that has to do with the alternator/regulator and things in that loop/circuit.

It simpler than that and you don't really need a picture. If you have the AC setting on your control panel, and 4 fan speeds, your car has factory AC. Under the hood you'll find machine crimped refrigerant lines rather than universal fit lines with barbed ends, a Hitachi compressor rather than a Sankyo/Sanden SD508 compressor, and the fast idle control system with the white (actually probably kind of yellow by now) vacuum bottle, the two magnet valves, etc.

Basically, gear ratios.

Actually, all the numbers are good except the first one, the fan itself and the first 'switch thermo number. None of those are available, however. 215590-N4200 Assy motor fan* 08360-81626 Screw machine 21503-N4206 Hose radiator A 21504-N4206 Hose radiator B 21595-M0205 Switch thermo* 21595-M0206 Switch thermo (alternate) 21596-N4205 Adapter hose 05412-1600P Gasket B 08723-13800 Clamp hose *no longer good numbers.

Has anyone actually seen one of these?

Okay, okay! I've already taken enough hits for that post including a couple of PMs. I was wrong, not for feeling that way about it but for expressing that feeling. I guess that's what the ignore list is for.

Are you ever going to post anything on this site besides weak jokes and a bunch of shi+ that doesn't make any sense or have anything to do with Zs? Do you even own one? I think you need a lonley hearts club or a pen pal and no, I'm not volunteering!:mad:

The poster, dreamath, who revived this old thread is some kind of bot or spammer. He left about six or so of this type of post this morning. Just ignore him.

The poster, dreamath, who revived this 6 year old thread is some kind of bot or spammer. He left about six or so of this type of post this morning.

You might also try these two sites. They found me a winshiedl for my 810 coupe last year. The 810 coupe winshield is unique to the coupe and the wagon and 4 dr sedan glass won't fit. They went the 'extra mile' to find it. Not only did they find one, they found 6! Three tinted and three non tinted. They're basically the same company. http://www.syossetglass.com/ http://glass-seekers.com/

I just point and shoot. Haven't seen a roll of film in years.

I would be leary of that one simply it says it fits 70-86.

No advantage that I know of. Sounds like your wts is no good. The wts is supposed to decrease in resistance as the engine warms up thereby leaning the fuel mixture and changing the fuel injection pulse. It won't run right wthout it plugged in and it won't run right if it's plugged in but bad.

Here's a couple of scans that show the difference: