dutchzcarguy

Yeah that must be frustrating.. i didn't do that a single time with the restore from my 280zx... i drove home after the MOT (APK overhere) and drove very carefully.. i was afraid i hit the carport so i drove it more to one side.. the side the goldwing was standing... i put a dent in my 280 with the chrome bumpers of the cases on the goldwing! Pfff.. sigh.. 😀 You had to take out the headlights.. that was easy.. my 280zx .. i bought it with a 2nd windscreen in it.. it had a little crack in the window.. nothing bad.. repair it later after reinstall.. later i saw that it had split the window while in storage.. (2) then i bought one second hand, the girlfriend of my first painter broke it while cleaning her house but said later i have never seen a windscreen here (I can show you the date i brought it to them in my log! (3) then i installed a new one and a college from the painter just let it hit the cowl somewhere i had not seen it but when installed it splitted on any points in the left down corner! (4) !! So... my 280zx has it's 5th !! windscreen.. and.. if someone try's to brake it i'm losing it.. i probably get my hunting rifle out and.... you guessed it!! So don't be annoid/ frustrated.. it comes with the trade.. Oh.. and Please!! ...clean that valvecover.. it looks like a turd in that beautiful enginecompartment!!!!!

Do i see a orange on your license plate? And is the feb26 for roadtax? In our country the roadtax is zero euro when the car is over 40 years old.. In Germany it's 30 years taxfree.. Crazy! (Talking about ONE euro.. pfff) How much roadtax do you pay for a oldtimer in the states and is it everywhere in all the states the same (.. i asked myself..) ? BTW, your car turned out BEAUTIFUL, hope you will have a long time a LOT of fun with it! (I would have made it exactly the same but in "euro land" the extra 2 bumpers on the bumpers are not standard.. i would leave them off, it's only unnecessary weight!) Again: WELL Done!

Isn't the left and right the same? Looks as if you can use it in both directions..

I've got some Nissan orig. brakedrums bought from someone years ago and he said they came from a TVR rear axle.. Only he had to make the 4 wheelstud holes a bit bigger.. i bought them anyway as they where then already very scarse.. I only need to put a little ring in the holes to use them again on a s30 nissan! What kind of TVR these drums also used is not known.. But someone could investigate. He said they fitted good only the 4 wheelstuds/bolts where bigger on a TVR.

WOW! That restore is unbelievable, have you seen (also) how clean his workbench is when he's doing al the work? Mine is always a (UN)organised MESS!! Give me 😁 a "AGREE" when yours is also always a mess!!!

As i'm learning the language.. you meant convenience? or is that an other word for the same? 🙂 ?? also ease , handyness..

I think as Max said.. you need to correct the fender not the door.. what your doing is sculpturing the door where the fender is/was already a sculptured part.. first thng to do is clean of the fender till you only have metall and go from there. When you losen the fender on the lower end, you'll see that there is a lot of room to alter the gap you are experiencing. (I'm always alert on the fact that also a new part can be broken or wrong but in this case i don't think you can blame the new part.) (Also as i'm lazy.. (read:tired all the time.) i didn't read the whole topic but i just added my view. sorry..)

I have never altered a brakesystem, but read about it and i'm sure you WILL need a proportioning valve! Unless your installing 500HP plus you don't need cooled and drilled and grooved disks on the rear axle. At less than 150 horse (As it's 150SAE HP) you don't really need bigger brakes than original provided.) As john Morton once said in a commercial: front disks and rear drums, i wouldn't want it any other way.. (Or something alike 😉)

Are you not worried that this kind of brakecaliper on the rear makes MUCH to much braking power? I read a lot of people that go from drumbrakes to diskbrakes are experiencing much to hard braking and it can be very dangerous when a car brakes to hard on the rearaxle.. You need to find a balance in that and this can be very tricky! (That's why i still prefer the drumbrakes in the rear.) Also the grooved and drilled disks... ON the REAR?? If you ask me, waiting for a lot of trouble? I would go (If i wanted disks) for a plain single disk of about 12mm oe so. (Rear brakes only do about 20-25% of the total of braking.. You even can drive a car without rear brakes, i don't recommend but it's not much difference.. don't ask how i know hahaha...) Also, do you leave the brakeforce reducer in the rear line in, or do you need to take it out? (I guess the brakeparts deliverer/compagnie has a surtain plan delivered with the parts?)

Here, some euro inlet pic's

I've seen exhausts that leaked, so if you want to fit it right make the intakes smaller not the exhaust pipes/connections. Particularly the exhaust number 6 causes trouble at the seals.. so you know now what to look out for!

Nice clock there.. I got the exact same one (still working) comes original out of a 260z but will fit 240z i guess?.. Or is there a different connection?

Those donuts in plastic are also found under the seats.. but i only have seen them in black (on the bolts).

Wow! I think i have restored my 280zx first edition of 1979 just in time! I feel a lot better about the amount that costed me the restore now! Hahaha! 😁

Nice website, www.s30.world (so.. not .nl or .com or whatever!) just s30.world !!

Nice to see that it is the other way around this time, yes someone overhere is working hard on S30 stuff! Most times we have to get our stuff out of the USA or Japan..

Oh.. 10+ years for a restore of one of these is no exception, it took me 10+ years to do my 240z and over 10+ years to do my 280zx slick roof 2+2.. You car looks like a clean (not rusty) example, nice to work on!

Nice work Chris, (I myself have the euro version signal lights on the bumper) For as far i know these flasher light ornaments/casings only had one bulb in them? I like the ones that are on the bumper, the disadvantage is the terrible stuff it's made of most part namely Zamac (alu,copper,zinc ??) It rusts from inside the airbubbles IN the material, so it's always a lost case when you rechrome them it ALWAYS comes back.. terrible stuff.. Maybe you could make them (the main rear part) out of shiny plasic?

Yes, overhere we had liquorice, what we call "drop".. we had "drop" Cents, i remember we had 100 for 1 guilder so in dollar then it was about 275 "dropjes" for a US dollar i guess.. How can i make a Dutch guy crazy? Put him in a round room and tell him there is liquorice in the corner! And a Belgian? .. Say there are some french fries in the corner! The Dutch, we love our DROP!

Sorry, i Didn't read the whole story.. i thought your car is a wreck with a good roof.. 2 cents.. 45 cents.. wow that's a high inflation! 🤪

Hihi.. just what i said, cut half way the a and c pillars.. (Under the complex joint.. so the roof is saved.)

@Captain Obvious I thank you too for the explanations of a MC! I never had a problem with them, did install them but never had to go into them deep.. It sounds completely clear that there is a small valve to shut this piston to make pressure. Also it sounded logical that the valve was open when it was rusted as the MC was all that time when it rusted solid in rest position.

Details Details!! 👌 And put the other 99 for sale in a ad on the site! 😉

They where not on this site for over a year.. (look at theire personal page.) They can't keep up with all the sites, busy at work!

On the link, that left rim in pic1 has a dent on 3 o'clock and the right one is/seems unround at 7.. And also, find 2 others..