dutchzcarguy

I never had those on my 2/71 240z. never missed them, where are they good for? noisedampening? collecting water so the door rusts even faster?🙊 Lot of you guys are in dryer clymates, but over here.... I wouldn't install them even when i had a brand new set lying around! The rubber that's around the door is sufficient in my eyes.. (It's like the extra rubber in the top of the tailgate. NON-existent on my car also..) 🤣

Didn't read of anyone telling to be very careful with the domes and those needles.. they are normally not removed by "unqualified personnel" , so be careful. Then.. I think it's not uncommon to have some difference in the carbs.. Normally they are on 2,5 rounds clockwise (seen from above) but you could open the front carb a bit more, but first as Gundee says, look for a leak in air.. Also look if the pistons come up equal when you rev the engine to say 2-3000 rpm. (you can see them when the filter is off)

I would do the bottom partialy. and make a little hole in the middle to let water out (in the cover) otherwise it will stay wet. Sometimes we want to do something too good/well.

IF you use weatherstripping, make sure you have the non open structure. So it does not take in water, you can check that with dipping it into water. (And then squeeze it) I would use some small pieces of rubber that you glue on the important corners. that way you have no chance for rust between the weatherstripping!

Ehm.. i think it's a "not original" hole? maybe one day you find out for what it was made.. i would put in a big rubber (closed) tulle.

When i hear the word: Pertronix... I get silent.. because i have said it many times.. (most times junk) 🤮

Hi Guys, some news.. I installed in a few month's my extension on the carport and also installed my heatpump for the house and partial the heatpump for the garage! Did it all myself with a lot of patience but i'm happy to let you see this next picture! A giant carport of 4x 11,5 mtrs or 13 x 37,7 feet! Almost 500 square feet! 👍 I've got now place for 4 cars.... wait a minute? I only have 3? I can buy myself another one!! 🤣 I need to put in some lighting in the new part but no hurry. First i have to install the garage heatpump.. that's half a days work i would say... but when? i don't know.. before this winter i hope. When that's done i can concentrate on the 280zx again as the engineroom is still a mess.. oh well we get there, some day.. 🤠

As your engine is such a mistery i would do a cold and then a hot compression test on it .. you may see some strange differences? Also.. just a thought! 🙂

I would never do that to a 1970's car.. these early ones have/are made of, very thin steel and will bend like a banana.... Get yourself a later 280z chassis at least!

Maybe you could put a picture here of the tools you need? Maybe someone has them but does not know that they are the needed ones? I follow your work on this because i recently bought a diff in parts with new bearings.. and.. i have to put it together some time (i guess job 2987 that i need to do some time..) 🙈 Before i bought it i looked it over how to build the diff .. i remember something like you have to paint some teeth and let it drive the other teeth over the painted ones and look at the "dents" in the paint.. not at what the paint does to the clean teeth.. ?? In pic 1 is that with the indents? They have to be in the middle of the teeth's so it's not a bad start.. You need a small shim to correct it to the middle, i think there is a way to determin on what side you have to ad a shim.. As i said i need to do this some time but also never opened up a diff.. it's interesting to see though.. Edit.. Also try to stop the outgoing axle when turning the ingoing axle (Maybe someone needs to help you with that) then you get better indentations in your (fresh thin layer of) paint.

A LOT of times people that constructed something, most times the first 3 or so times they make modifications in the design.. I know of people that said that.. It's normal.. I had it a few times ... you learn a lot during the creating proces.

Dare i say it.. now everyone is asking him/herself.. what does he want to say: oh well.. It's: So never then? ( Not that i think you never end the car, it's just like that one thing many people want to improve on their car.. but they never get to it !! ) 😂 I got 1 or 2 myself? (More like a 100!! 😢)

Put in the new mounts and check the angles.. i think you worry to much.. 😬 A little angle in the axles is good.. If you had over 400 pounds of weight in your neck for 50 years you would be also a lot smaller! 🤣

Btw.. i can see that the old one is not in a good condition in your last foto.. rubber has let go of the steel.. top in pic.

After 40-50 years of drying.. and fichting the weight.. they get smaller.. it is possible that it dried 2/16 or 1/8th of an inch..

I sometimes buy from HBM. Few month's ago bought this bench/tool box, a bit expensive but a good quality product.. (I removed the HBM sticker though!)

Is this a commercial ? HTM machines 😮 Did you also put a layer of 2 comp. clearcoat on? You can get those these days in a rattle can. They have a valve on the bottom to mix the 2 components, works very good and your work is like from a pro, i mean they do 1 comp color and then 2 comp clearcoat. Then the paint is good protected.

I have had the same thought many times myself, my 240z is 52 1/2 years old and has a still working hatch strut. When i bought my 280zx in september 2013 they (as there are 2) also still worked in a warm garage.. haha but later i had to get me some new ones as they became very weak.. I got 2 reserve 240z struts but they are not fitting on a 280zx .. 👿

Often it's much cheaper to order a whole box with rubber ring's and grommet's. I remember i did this myself long ago and it comes always handy to have them in your garage.

Rarely seen a 240z with this kind of PERFECT panel gaps! You did a extraordinary job!! My hawk eyes only saw one little imperfection.. No not worth mentioning.. (0:35 min) PLEASE ignore because i think this is the best 240z bodywork i have seen EVER!!! I think you are (Like as me sometimes) a perfectionist, and that's not always easy... We call this: een muggezifter! (translated: a nitpicker or critic.) YOU ARE DOEING A WONDERFUL JOB! 👏

Normally i would have said that, but these fuseboxes are to old for that. the plasic will brake.. you need to be very careful. clean contacts and LED lights are the solution. And a look with a infrared thermometer after 15 min. of "everything ON" over the fusebox and wireing is a good test!

As all these contacts are rivetted i would clean up all these contacts ans solder them. (Take out the whole box) As they are 50 years old, clean them with a small rotary brush on a dremel. Maybe replace that burned fuse contact with another one. (Out of an old fusebox) Also clean the contacts between the fuse itself and the clamps (With a soft brush, not to damage the copper, maybe use some alcohol.. no not to drink! to clean!! 😉 ) and take all fuses out and bend them to one another so the fuse is hold very tight in between.. (hope you get what i mean haha 🙂 ) Do this to all the fuses and you will have no more fusebox issues.. (Use clean fuses!)

Okay.. My question would be: But was that a original part or did someone think it would be better/nice to have one there.. Does it excist on the fiche of the 240z? EDIT.. oeps.. i see that you found that on the fiche in answer #733.. I really don't know it's been 23 years since i opened one up.. I asked BING for a picture.. he/she is looking for one and i report IF it gets one haha.. I think you better make one yourself of a inner tube of a cartire. maybe jfa.series1 has a pic.

Yes, if you don't do this and dip the brush in the pot then you infect the whole pot with rust particles and the chemical proces starts the hardening of the whole pot. This also happens with all kinds of other chemical rust converters.. (Like rostjäger en Fertan) Always take apart a little in a cup. NEVER put the brush into the pot you will contaminate the whole container and it starts to dry up.

Took another look and saw something strange? why need 2 from every gasket? there is also a special one for the 2+2 ???? You need the first 2 partnumbers for 2 seater. But i'm almost sure i only used 1 gasket on every headlamp.. Is it possible there is one in front and one on the rear of the fender? weird... It didn't see that on the website picture/exploded view. I guess the qty: 2 is just a mistake, you need 2 but only 1 set of one left and one right .. 12 PACKING-SHEET RH 26027-E4100 7307 2 PACKING 26027-E4101 2 SEATER 7308 2 PACKING-SHEET LH 26077-E4100 2+2 SEATER 7308 2