Carl Beck

That was a great deal. If you buy the Front sections - without the strut rod brace. Then buy the sections that go under the floorboards - you'll have $400.00 in one side. Plus then you have to cut/weld the strut rod braces in. I have an NOS pair - wouldn't let them go for anything less than $800.00. $455.00 is a Give Away price. FWIW, Carl B.

Look at the Tail Lights and the panels surrounding them. See Post #493 - - BSR 1977 - Tail Lights show 260/280Z Camel GT - Bob Sharp Datsun Z Camel GT Pace Car | eBay Motors Blog FWIW, Carl B.

That - and I have kept a record of every Datsun 240Z VIN that I have found to be still in existence since about the mid 80's... When you ask about the Series - I looked your VIN up on my list and I had a note there about it... FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - have them make it locally. They should be able to use your existing flange - but make sure they extend the new pipes up past the top of the flange - just as the original was made. This assures that the header pipe seals properly to the mating Exhaust Manifold. Without the small pipe extensions - it is easy to blow out the mating gasket if one of the three nuts works its way lose. Some muffler shops cut the old pipes off Near the existing flange, but below it - then weld new pipes down from there - the problem with doing that is - the old pipes left just below and just above the flange - blow out next if they are weak to begin with. So ask them if that price include complete removal and replacement of all the old pipe sections - if the old pipes have any weakness at all. An NOS 70-72 Exhaust Header Pipe - if you could find one for sale - could cost as much as $350.00 or more {271.5 Euro} here in the States. Good solid used one's can easily be $175.00 to $225.00 USD {135 to 174 Euro} Note - The 73 Exhaust Header Pipe will only work with the 73 Exhaust Manifold - although the Parts Catalog lists the 73 Part Number as Superceding the 70/72 Part Numbers - they are not interchangable. A good muffler shop Could "modify" a 73 Header Pipe - to replace a 70/72 Header Pipe. They would just have to extend the two pipes down about 4 or 5 more inches.. FWIW, Carl B.

Congrats Gary! By now I've seen a few of the BRZ's at the local Cars & Coffee.. First I was surprised that the car was bigger than I expected, based on the pictures I'd seen. Secondly - the healights/nose styling reminded me of the 370Z a bit.. Over-all a nice looking package - You'll have to keep us updated as you get a few miles driving in the Day-to-Day traffic and weekend fun.. FWIW, Carl B.

VIN HLS30 21000 or higher = Series II {up to HLS30 46000} Date of Mfg 02/71 or higher = Series II {into 09/71} FWIW, Carl B.

5/71 240Z HLS30-31564 :-) Steve Prefontaine's 240Z... FWIW, Carl B.

I have had one in my 72 Z since the mid 70's. I've always found it very useful. I also have one in good used condtion in case anyone else is looking for one. I'm thinking $50.00 plus shipping. FWIW, Carl B.

Glad things worked out for you.. Carl B.

"This listing was ended by the seller because the item is no longer available." Sold already? Or is the listing screwed up? Carl B.

Yea - what happened? I just sent it to friend in Switzerland..? $14K was a Fire Sale price - FWIW, Carl B.

SOLD for $11,499.00 - some one got a super deal. FWIW, Carl B.

As I recall - according to NGK - The Projected Tip was intended to keep the electrodes pushed farther into the combustion flame - and thus to keep the plug from fowling as easily. I would guess that with the L28E - the more precise air/fuel mixtures offered by Fuel Injection, along with the wider plug gaps ran with the electronic ignition - they didn't seem to think that the Projected Tip was necessary any longer. Personally - if the engine has 100K+ miles, and it is ran mostly in stop/go traffic - I'd still use the Projected Tip plugs. Likewise - the "R" resister plugs help keep engine ignition noise {electrical} at bay. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: The MiniLite statement has nothing to do with the condition nor safety of now 40+ year old magnesium wheels. Yes, it is still a winning "design". Yes, when first cast magnesium wheels are light weight and very strong. Most magnesium wheels are stamped or cast with their Date of Manufacture - there is a reason for that, and it is important to pay attention to it. Magnesium wheels are designed to meet a specified duty cycle and service life. What metals are alloyed with the magnesium, how the wheel is cast and or forged and machined, how the wheel is designed structurally all play a role in meeting the pre-defined duty cycle and service life requirements. If I had to guess, I would guess that the Minilite's you have and the American Racing Wheels that I have - were designed for competition use over a period of 5 full seasons or less. I would be interesting to see what warning labels if any, came on them when they were new. I did quite a bit of research when I was attempting to restore a set of American Racing Le Mans wheels for my BRE Z. Most of the information I trusted came from the guys in the Materials Lab where I worked. So take if for what it is worth. Magnesium hardens with age and it thus becomes more brittle over time. Within a defined high load impact a new magnesium wheel will actually flex or deform without failing {about three times as much as aluminum}. That same wheel twenty years later, given the same level of impact, may fracture, and that can cause a sudden and unexpected failure.. Then there are variables among/between different qualities of magnesium wheels. Cast or Forged there can be small voids in the original structures, and within these voids there can be corrosion taking place over time, which in turn can cause deep pitting. [the magnesium alloy billets used for Forged wheels can have the same problems as any castings - it is all about process control}. Magnesium wheels are porous - as anyone that runs them knows - they have to be coated to seal them, at least on the tire mounting surfaces to hold air for very long. They are also subject to rapid oxidation and corrosion when exposed to moisture. So moisture and air can penetrate deep into the metal. As the magnesium wheel ages, these corrosion pits both external and internal to wheel, can develop into fractures in the metal {somewhat like a chip in a windshield can develop into a crack}. While eddy current inspection can help identify these microscopic fractures on the external surface before they develop farther, it takes X-Ray inspection to find potential problems within the metal. All that said - I do have a set of 40+ year old mag's on the BRE Baja Z. They are there just for show, to roll the car on and off the trailer. I had them inspected {NDI Tech at the local Air Port Service Center} and picked the best 4 out of 8 wheels. Crazy as it may seem - I have driven the car at highway speeds on them as well - but I am well aware of their limits and the risk I am taking. I certainly would not do any of that on 40+ year old mags without having them professionally inspected, and found to be at least currently "solid". Nor would I sell any 40 year old magnesium wheels to anyone for other than "display" use. FWIW, Carl B.

$2500.00 for ONE wheel and used tire??? Yieks! I have a set of 4 wheels that look to be in better shape - - I'd sell all four for $2000.00 - maybe even less! FWIW, Carl B.

For your First Z - I would recommend either the Blue Z listed by madkaw, or the Red Z listed by JLPurcell. Both these guys know a lot about Z's... Both Z's look to be pretty good examples that you could drive and enjoy. If you are talking $10,000.00 to $15,000.00, then putting your money into a pretty Stock example makes far better sense to me. If you did want to resell it in the future - you would have a far better chance of getting most of your money back out of stock Z. I would have no interest in any of the first 3 you listed. For the most part they have been personally customized to the tastes and budgets of their previous owners. If you want a Street Mod or Custom Z and your going to spend that much money - then start with a far less expensive stock example, then make the way You Want it. That way at least you will know what has been done and that it has been done right. FWIW, Carl B.

No welding experiences nor equipment No garage and no lift Won't and shouldn't spend thousands of dollars From what you have written - your option is to sell the car to someone that can and will fix it themselves. Rust is always far worse than you think at first..it gets worse as you uncover it... Cut your losses and dump the car. Don't put more money for anything else - into a rust bucket you can't fix. FWIW, Carl B.

Cancelled Orders - are a very common problem for all the sites that offer On-Line Ordering of Nissan Parts for 240Z's. All too often it is a hassle to get them to actually issue an off-setting Credit, for the charges on your Credit Card, after you have waited for weeks on "Back-Order", before they even cancel the order. In the mean time you are left "hoping" and "dreaming"... that you have found a source for NLA parts. Call your local Dealer Parts Dept, or Courtesy in Texas - if they can't get the Part you want - chances are great that none of the other On-Line Vendors will either. FWIW, Carl B.

Read this Thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/48392-affordable-chrome-plating-plastic-metal-parts.html As I recall it is $100.00 to have a pair re-chromed -that includes shipping. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jonu: Search some of the more recent Threads related to the Unilite's. I would at least seem that the quality of the current product is far less than what they have been. Several people have complained about the Unilite's just dying suddenly - and shortly after being installed - It is possible that today - current owners of the newer production lots - would not recommend buying one. FWIW, Carl B.

The mountains in May are simply Beautiful! The resort setting for the Event is GREAT! I drove "the Tail" for it's scenic beauty at a very safe speed{several times during the week} - and enjoyed every minute. I may buy a cabin in that area - if I can find one I can afford. The only problem for me with ZDAZ, is limited rooms available at the Event Site itself..which means you have to book early.. I usually don't know if I can go or not until a week or so before the event.. and by then there is no place close to stay.. Nonetheless - it is a Must Attend Z Event... FWIW, Carl B.

What Brand and type was your original spare? I have a few up in the attic.. What did it cost to have the luggage straps restored - how did they turn out? Carl B.

I just went though a similar process. Looking for something that the Wife and I could enjoy in a more or less Classic Car or Special Interest Car. We really didn't want a "project" as much as something that was ready to drive and enjoy. Had to have: Modern A/C for Florida {her main objection to the 240Z} Convertible - she missed her last one... Sporty..to Sports/GT Classic Car Insurance The requirement for modern A/C pretty much ruled out most 40 year old sports cars. A retractable hardtop seemed to be the best of both worlds ie Convertible with good A/C. Mecerdes Benz SLK 230 Sport FWIW, Carl B.

Nice - looks like every picture of a Z was taken directly off the color charts, contributed by Michael Perdue on the Z Car Home Page. 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery In the picture presented - the color looks closer to 903.. but it could just as easly be presented as a 115 car. You would have to see it in person. FWIW, Carl B.

In todays market - it is hard to find CASH buyers at anything much above the $14K to $16K range. Until you get into the serious collectors - but they want at least #2 condition, pure stock examples. What you have is a very nice "Enthusiast" car. One you could drive anywhere and take to local car shows, where the people are not Z Experts {so they wouldn't nit pick it to death}. Although the enthusiasts love the 240Z's - most won't or can't pay much above that $15K range. I agree that one could not most likely duplicate it for less than $20K - but most enthusiasts have $10K to $12K to start with - and they can over time put the additional $6K to $10k into their own car. They just can't plunk down $14K to $16K to start with. One could simply get lucky - and find a buyer that is replacing a totalled Z - when they have the insurance money to buy a finished car... It all depends on how long the owner can hold the car, now much effort is put into advertising it - and of course being lucky enough to reach the right buyer. Depends on one's personal situation as well - but $14K Cash in hand today - might be better than the hope of $16K in a few months. In the end - EBay might be your best method of reaching enough serious buyers, to actually get the car sold. BTW - you have done a great job with it.. FWIW, Carl B.