Everything posted by Carl Beck
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New member, but an old timer
Hi DaveN: An additional data point or two... Did you know George Panko II and/or Rick Morgan? Rick is said to have purchased #13 out of South Carolina in 76.. But have never been able to track him down.. FWIW, Carl B.
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New member, but an old timer
HI Dave: Welcome to the group. Would you happen to have any pictures of the VIN on the Dash, or the Door Jam data plate, or the Engine compartment Data Plate showing s/n 00013? A copy of the original title...maybe? The name of the collector that purchased it maybe? If it was rescued from a Salvage Yard in NJ - did it have to be retitled with a NJ Salvage Title? Hope you will forgive me, but so far I've heard from at least three different people who claim to have had HLS30 00013, but so far nothing but stories. I don't doubt anyone's word - just their memories. A couple times we tracked the cars down to find HLS30 10013 and HLS30 1000013. I'd really be interested in finding some verfication that the car was actually sold to the public. At present the lowest VIN sold to the public here in North America has been HLS30 00016 located in Lutz, Florida. Any input appreciated. Carl B.
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1971 240Z - won't start - help!
Ah... time for my Firestone Forever Battery story.... Back in 1975 I was working for a Firestone Dealer (another long story)... and I needed a new battery for the Z. So I bought a Firestone Forever... the best they offered at the time... My employee price was around $24.00 then...(for a 69.97 battery). Since that time, Firestone had replaced that battery free of charge about every 4 years....As I added more cars to the collection I tired of finding them with dead batteries every time I decided to drive one.. so around 1995, I bought several Battery Minder's.... smart trickle chargers... and hooked them all up when the cars were parked in the garage.. When kept on the Battery Minders... the Firestone Forever's lasted an average of 6.5 years... as are most of the batteries in the other cars now.. I had to have the Firestone Forever replaced a couple years ago.... So I took the battery into the local Firestone Store, the counterman looked up the new replacement battery, then went and got one out of stock. Sitting it on the counter, he said "that will be $79.95 plus $5.59 sales tax and $5.00 Battery disposal fee - $90.54." I said, "no, that is a Forever Replacement and it is free". I then dug out my paperwork to show him the words "Forever" on the invoices and guarantee. The counterman said he had never seen anything like that... so he went to get the Store Manager. The Store Manager knew what it was - but said he hadn't see one in years... So he started looking through the computer screens, to see if he could find the proper codes to charge the battery out of stock to... Finally he found them.. still on-line, still being honored... I wonder what will happen the next time I have to replace it... At any rate, if your car sits for prolonged periods I'd highly recommend hooking the battery up to a good smart trickle charger... the car will start when you are ready and the battery will last for many additional years... There are many others and you can shop the web for the best pricing, but I've been very happy with <a href=http://www.thebatteryminder.com/ TARGET=NEW> the BatteryMINDer </a> Check Standard Battery Chargers - 12V-1.33A BatteryMINDer They do more than just trickle charge.. and won't overcharge. No need to remove the battery if the car is garage kept, just plug in the trickle charger. Of course none of this negates the requirement for clean, tight battery terminals... I switched to Gold Plated terminals years ago - and have not had a problem since... FWIW, Carl B.
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anyone we know?
Looking at the junk that gone though E-Bay lately, and seeing the prices they bring... this one is at least $3K to $4K underpriced.... may scare potential buyers away, because they will wonder why it's so cheap... Good Paint Job.... $5K Interior Parts..... $1K Ext. Badges .5K New Seals........... .5K D-Hubcaps .5K Struts/springs .5K Bumpers....... 1K sub-tot = $9K And I'd bet he has more than $14K in it not counting the car.. Which means your paying about $2,500.00 for a solid 71 240-Z.... and doing NONE of the work FWIW, Carl B.
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Hello from Corfu
They look to be about 14 or 15... otherwise they would be driving not walking... Can you make it to the Ferrari Factory? FWIW, Carl B.
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280z vs 260z engine
The L24, L26 and L28 are all the same size. The L26 has a longer stroke, that yields about 200 additional cc's in total displacement. The L24 and L26 block were the same when new, with the exception that the L26 had reliefs cut in the tops of the cylinder walls to allow larger diameter valves to be used with the same bore as the L24. The L28 has a larger bore, in addition to the longer stroke of the L26. The larger bore yields about 200 additional cc's in total displacement over the L26. FWIW, Carl B.
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280z vs 260z engine
Yes- the N42 head breaths better than the stock E88 on the L26, additionally the N42 has a far better combustion chamber design for performance. Add a few hundred extra cc's and the L28 will have significantly more torque and power. That depends to a great extent on what you plan to use the car for - and how much money you want to spend, both in terms of the costs of modifications and in terms of the costs of depriciated market value when/if you ever try to resell the 260-Z. You can expect a significant boost in torque and hp... {if both engines are factory stock to begin with, and the L28 is a good running engine to begin with} FWIW, Carl B.
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old zman
Hi Nissanman: That's funny - I sold about 10 Datsun 510's brand new in Jan. of 71! I sure wish I had kept one for myself. Love what you've done with yours. I just bought a 72 PL510 Station Wagon... pretty clean for it's age and still stock. I may leave it that way for a while and just enjoy driving it for a while. It could use a bit more horsepower and the suspension would benefit from a slight upgrade.... maybe later..... FWIW, Carl B.
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Hello from Corfu
Hi Gary: Thanks for the travel log - take plenty of pictures.. It would be surprising to see many Datsuns or Older Nissans in Europe from the 60's, 70's 80's or even 90's. Europe's EEU and GB, just finally dropped their protective trade tariffs carried over from WW-II around 2002. Nissan Motors had built some production plants there in an effort to gain entry into those markets and the tie up with Renault now should result far greater European market sales in the coming years. {at least Carlos is counting on that}. FWIW, Carl B.
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Series 1, Seat Belts
Hi Bruce: The problem your having with the seat belts is common. They have just been sitting too long without use / adjustment. The little roller gets sticky and freezes in place, and the webbing on the seat belts gets stiff and set in its way... You just have to tug, pull, work side to side on the belt... and they will break lose and start to move through the adjustment range again. You have to hold the buckle at a 90 angle from the belt... than pull like crazy on the buckle, working it side to side... Looks like the belts are in good condition... As long as you are the only or main driver - I think you'll learn to like the non-self adjusting belts - you can draw them down tighter and they help hold you in place. Just be sure that the buckle doesn't drop out the door as you exit the car... If it does and you slam the door on it - it can leave a chip in the paint on the drivers door jam.... FWIW, Carl B.
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New "F" car on Ebay
Ah... thanks Trevor.. I knew I had read that somewhere before.... Carl B.
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New "F" car on Ebay
Hi Chris: Yes - I just wondered where the Dealer found it - I doubt he worte it himself. I thought perhaps you might have ran across the original writting in your research on the VZ's. Carl B.
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New "F" car on Ebay
Hi Alan: That is truly, just too funny.... several "crack teams" come to mind, that I would enjoy seeing.... Hi Will: Our exchange reminds me of the off quoted: "I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant." ..... back to work... Carl B.
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New "F" car on Ebay
Chris: Can you tell us where the following statement came from? "1971 Datsun 240Z Restored by Nissan Motor Company On May 3rd at the U.S. Headquarters of Nissan Motors in Gardena, CA they introduced the first of the factory-refurbished 240 Z's. Introduced in 1970 the sticker price of a New 240Z was $3,526, the refurbished Z's will run $24,950. The cars, 200 of them, are being done by Pierre'Z Service Center in Southern CA. And will be sold through 10 Nissan dealers designated as "Z Stores". After the Z's were selected from across the country (many came from Arizona and areas similar due to the more rust free condition) they are fully disassembled, then each part is inspected and inventoried. The unibody is inspected, repaired if necessary and then dipped and painted. From there any parts needing replaced are ordered (yes they have access to parts we don't). Everything is kept as original with the exception of tires, (hard to find the original size) and a few other suspension parts (busings, struts). The other difference is a small sticker on the quarter window and an emblem on the center console designating it as an official Nissan refurbished Z. Nissan cut the restorations off after about 40 cars were completed. Short of their initial goal of 200 they still definatly managed to remind people of the part that the 240Z played in automotive history." Just wondered where the Dealer quoted this from... Carl B.
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New "F" car on Ebay
Hi Will: I think I understand what you are saying - but I an lead to believe that you are off on a tangent. An argument that involves the proper or improper use of a common noun in a sentence structure. Or is it an argument that involves the possibility that any specific individual, might draw his or her own inferences from a sentence, when they define a common noun themselves, rather than drawing that definition from the context of the sentence, or paragraph within which it is used. {as common nouns are supposed to be defined} Somewhat like arguing that the Ford 40-GT Program was not a Factory Program because none of them were build in a Ford Plant. Or that Nissan Factory Service Manuals aren't really Nissan Factory manuals because none of them were printed in Nissan's plants, let alone its manufacturing factories. The use of the common noun "Factory", as a substitute to avoid the repetitious use of a proper noun such as "Nissan Motors", "Ford", "GM" etc - - is perfectly acceptable, broadly used by writers of all kinds and normally understood by the readers. ""Was the "Nissan Vintage Z Program" - a Factory Program? It most certainly was. ..." Because the word Factory in the preceding sentence is a common noun, and the common noun is defined in the context of the sentence.... and the context of the sentence is "Nissan Vintage Z Program"... I seriously doubt that most enthusiasts would think that was a reference to some single production plant in Japan ie. a factory or the factory, rather than Nissan Motors Ltd. If on the other hand - you take the word Factory completely out of the context of the sentence it was used in, therefore leaving its proper definition behind - - and instead substitute some other definition, or your own context such as "ask any Nissan factory employee"... then you can and do make all the counterpoints and arguments you just made. The problem is - you have simply shown that the definition of a common noun is intended to be, and should in fact be defined by the context of the sentence or paragraph within which it is used. Nonetheless, the Nissan Vintage Z Program was in fact a Factory Program, proven by the fact that it was the Nissan Vintage Z Program.... and was never referred to as the Nissan Shatai Koki Factory Program, nor the Nissan Shatai Koki, Kyoto nor Hiratsuka Factory Program etc. The bottom line is - one should not substitute one's personal definition of a common noun, for the definition provided by the context of the writing within which that common noun is used. Doing so might lead to massive personal confusion almost anytime common nouns are encountered. FWIW, Carl B.
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Just courious
Hi Art: The RD-150's were 175HR14's and found by their Original Owners - on 240-Z's in America with build dates between 10/71 and 06/72. But that range isn't absolute... what is the date of manufacture on the rim? For the most part - only people attempting to restore a 240-Z to "as it left the factory" are in need of fine examples of these early tires. The cars will only be rolled on/off the trailers at shows with them.. so appearance is all that really matters to them. Door panels, round top SU's and TAIL LIGHTS in excellent condition! Wow the Jackpot!! Someone will simply have to reproduce the chrome strips for the tail lights soon... or Nissan will have to have another production run by the OEM's...
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New "F" car on Ebay
The Nissan Vintage Z Program: Can really be viewed as a small part of a far larger Public Relations and Marketing initiative intended to promote Nissan's Brand Name in America, launched by Nissan Motors Ltd., in an attempt to regain market share though increased sales in America. Mr. Hanawa, taking over the reigns of leadership at Nissan Motors Ltd. in 1996, was faced with a very grim reality; Nissan Motors Ltd. was drowning in red ink, and on the verge of total collapse. Mr. Hanawa was convinced that the Factory had lost touch with its Customers and in turn lost market share during the preceding two decades. Two major goals were critical to Nissan's survival at that point; reestablish a personal connection with Nissan's customers and look for a White Knight to help bail Nissan Motors Ltd. out before a total collapse. Listening to his Customers in the American market - Mr. Hanawa realized that Nissan had lost its Flagship model - and that there was still great interest in its return - abet in a more affordable reincarnation. (the 96 300XZ TT's were priced at $48K in America)... He also realized that not only had Nissan lost its Flagship - it had NOT been designing and building the cars American's wanted to buy - rather it had been building the cars that Nissan wanted to sell; and they had not been at all competitive in a changing American market. In an effort to re-connect to his American Customers - Mr. Hanawa approved the advertising budget that launched the campaign to return the image of both Mr. Katayama and the Datsun 240-Z to their rightful place in the memories of the American Market. This $200,000,000.00 investment in brand image was a complete reversal of Nissan's direction in America taken in the preceding 20 years. By 1997 Mr. Hanawa had launched a complete model line redesign effort within Nissan Design, aimed at supplying new and exciting models to Nissan's beleaguered Authorized US Dealers, and he was actively courting a partnership with any automobile manufacturer capable of infusing the significant cash flow necessary to keep Nissan Motors Ltd. at least alive. He found that partner in Renault.... He also found a partner in the form of Carlos Ghosn, who agreed that Nissan Motors needed to reconnect with its Customers and exciting new models were one of the main answers to Nissan Motors Ltd. ills. While Mr. Hanawa did get the spotlight to announce "We Will Build It".... It was Mr. Ghosn that was on stage as all the new and exciting models started to roll off the production lines of Nissan Motors.... Was the "Nissan Vintage Z Program" - a Factory Program? It most certainly was. It's real significances however is that it will serve as a bookmark for the larger strategic efforts originally launched by Mr. Hanawa, as he sacrificed himself to save Nissan. Authorizing a $200 Million Dollar PR and Marketing Campaign aimed at America, as well as directing a redesign of the complete model line-up - when you are already $20 Billion in debt was a huge gamble... but one that paid off. Amazing what you can do if you don't care who gets the credit. Katayama was restored to his proper place of honor and success at Nissan, Mr. Ghosn got the credit for the turn-around {some of which he deserved} and Mr. Hawana retired into the setting sun... FWIW, Carl B.
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Greg Ira's EP 240Z Wins at Daytona 07
Hi Mark: Thanks for the pictures... it is simply wonderful to see a Datsun 240-Z at the front of the pack 38 years after it's introduction. Maybe it's just me - but I hate to see "NISSAN" on a DATSUN 240-Z here in the States. I wonder how much money he is getting from NISSAN for the advertising? Maybe we could offer him more to put DATSUN back on the car.. regards, Carl B.
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Just courious
Depends on the exact Brand and Type... In "as new" condition, with the mold nipples still there: If it's from a 69 production or very early 70 car - $175.00 to $250.00 {175R14Bridgestone Super Speed 20 on a 69 production rim for example might be worth $250+ to the right person. 175R14 Bridgestone RD-150 somewhat less.} All depends on who is bidding and how many they already have} If it's from a car produced between 6/70 and 1/71 - and if it's the right Brand and Type..$125.00 to $150.00. If it's a Toyo Radial Z-1 - $75.00 to $125.00... Depends on the exact Brand and Type... and when it's offered on E-Bay... FWIW, Carl B.
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240Z Race Car Up for Auction
.... and back in the day.... sometimes the Z's were "updated" in appearance because of Factory Contingency Money or outright sponsorships... to promote whatever model was "currently" being sold at the Dealerships... All of which makes it very hard to track the progression of historic cars with photographs from different periods... FWIW, Carl B.
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Window channel felt
Hi E: I just went and dug out the parts... and looking at them carefully - To tell you the truth - I think I got the terms right as applied to the parts for the Z. The lower portion of the rear window guide - is named "rubber"... but I'm not positive of exactly what the material is. On the one hand it seems like a very hard foam rubber, but on the other hand it feels like, or has the texture of a rubberized compressed felt... At any rate: The Nissan Parts Catalog lists them as: (see attached Page below) Item #5 - Felt-Glass Run Door 80335-E4102 Item #6 - Rubber - Glass Run Door 80336-E8700 If you order #5 above - -- What you get is 80335-N3700... and it is described as "Felt-Glass Run Door" in the Parts Catalog - but when it shows up, the new Part Number Tag says: "Guide-Front WIN". {it is the same part number for the 2+2 up to 6/75} It fits fine as I have already installed one set on one of my 72 240-Z's. #5 - would appear to be a rubber base - with Fuzzy Felt applied on top of three surfaces as you describe. The rubber base is then in contact with the metal frame... and the fuzzy felt surfaces wrap around the glass. Thus it is called "Felt-Glass Run Door". #6 - would appear to be either a very hard foam rubber it's texture does look a bit like compressed felt.. but there is no fuzzy felt bonded to it, like there is on item #5, nor is it made of pure felt. FWIW, Carl B.
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Clutch Problems
Bummer.. sorry to hear that... Carl B.
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Clutch Problems
A proven fact in Motor Home use, where the brake lines are 35 feet long. Not really a problem in a 240-Z. True - it takes a lot of effort to bleed the brake system using DOT 5, and you do have to be careful not to aggitate it. Not recommended for "Competition Cars". Everything in life is a trade off of some kind. I've used DOT 5 in all my 240-Z's for over 30 years now. Saved a ton on money and greef on corroaded wheel cylinders, master cylinders and clutch systems. Very few of us are driving our 240-z's every day... and DOT 5 is ideal for cars given limited use and exposed to sitting for prolonged periods.. FWIW, Carl B.
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electrical problem
Let us know what it turns out to be - but I agree with bobc - dead short in the battery. Had that happen to a brand new battery - it drove me nuts for a week trying to figure out what was happening... Took the battery in for a "Load Test" and the short showed up. The battery would take and hold a charge.... so I thought it was good, especially because it was new.... live and learn.... good luck, Carl B.
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240z rear end clunk - differential?
Check the front differential mount !!... lay under the car, put your strong arm/hand under the nose of the differential -PUSH UP AS HARD AS YOU CAN. If you can push the front of the differential up - the front mount is broken - replace it. Secondly - there is a "strap" that runs over the top of the nose of the differential - make sure that is in place and stoping the upward movement of the nose of the differential - that strap is there to help prevent breaking the front differential mount - by limiting the upward movement of the nose of the differential under acceleration from rest. FWIW, Carl B.