Carl Beck

Oh my God.. now I remember!! That is just too funny...! I actually remember people talking about that at the convention in 96. Time flys... Carl B.

Hi Alan: Very interesting. I just gave Ron Johnson a call. He was in the Datsun Competition Parts Dept. during that time (actually for about 30 years).. He said that they only sold the parts received from Nissan Japan, but that they were quickly copied by local fiberglass shops and reproduced in various configurations to be sold in the aftermarket. (ie. I piece, 2 piece 4 piece ect.) the least expensive being the one piece units. Yes, the initial shippments from Japan were the early type - and shortly thereafter they started receiving the the later type with the additional duct work. He was thinking that it was 75 or 76 before they were listed in the Competition Parts Catalogs - as the first units arrived too late to make the deadline for the up comming year's issue. The G-Nose was discontiuned by the Datsun/Nissan Competition Parts Dept. only because Nissan Japan ran out of replacement parts. ie they all became NLA. Even though the copies were available through local suppliers Datsun Competiton Parts never carried them. The Competition Parts Dept. soon ran out of the headlght covers and hood hinges as well. (parts that the aftermarket could not reproduce cheaply). He seemed to recall the additional air ducts being added to direct more air into/through the oil cooler. Perhaps there is a Competition Bulletin somewhere outlining that. I mentioned your comments about the A/C and he said he had not heard that, but it too was quite possible. He did not recall any of the aftermarket suppliers using the "gray" fiberglass in an attempt to actually duplicate the look of the originals. FWIW, Carl

Yes thanks - that site seems to show both types.. with and without the additional "air-con" ducting. Alan - am I interpreting the meaning of your term "air-con" ducts correctly? Tony D are these the "teeth" you refernced? Carl B.

Anyone have the USA Nissan Competition parts book from 74, 75, 76 - with a picture of the G-Nose? Or any of the Nissan Sports Option catalogs with a picure of the G-Nose from the mid 70's? Alan said the early type G-Nose did not have the "air-con" ducts... I wonder if that is the style sold here earlier than 1978. Carl B.

Hi Tony D I just wondered if you had followed the Wind Tunnel Testing done by the HybridZ group a few months ago? If so, how do you account for the G-Nose producing both more lift and drag at 120mph, than the stock 240-Z? Would the outcome be altered because of the longer 2+2 roof line and wheel base? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi full house: I'm sure you will be more than welcome here. Are you thinking about buying a Classic Z at this point? What part of the Phillippines are you located in? regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Oh.. just remembered... How about the FIA Approval for the G-Nose? I think, but I'm not certain that the parts had to be regular production parts or offered on at lease some number of cars build by the factory - 500 maybe? maybe this will help... Carl B.

Hi Tony D. Having been a New Car Sales Manager at a Datsun Dealership in 72/73 I can tell you that the "G" nose was offered by the Datsun Competition Parts Dept, and was available "Over-The-Counter" at your local Datsun Dealer's Parts Department. However it was never a Dealer Installed Option. Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) forbade Manufacturers or their authorized Dealers from removing or altering in any way - any of the equipment mandated by Federal Law. That of course included the front impact tested bumper for 1972 as well as the entire front assembly for the stricter still 73 standards. So it looks like you will have to base your case on some type of documentation from Japan. Alan may have found something "official" that you can use. good luck, Carl B.

If the turn out at Autoway is any indication - the ZCCA Annual Convention held this year in Daytona should be a huge event. Clearwater is somewhat "out of the way" as it were here in Florida. We're on the Gulf Coast and not a major city. We are not necessarily a center of sports car activity either. Good to get to spend some time with hls30.com (we were up until past 2:00AM the night before) and 26th-Z made it up to Clearwater Saturday as well. I'd guess that in total there were well over 60 cars at the event (not all entered in the show). Amazing amount of really special cars there too. I think the success of this event should be very encouraging to the organizers.. looking forward to Oct. The major surprise for me - a friend from Tampa brought his Orange 72 Datsun S/W (which won a trophy in the People Choice competition). He had just purchased it the week before - and it looks a lot like the one I just a few weeks earlier!! Same color and same year!! I hadn't even seen a 510 on the roads around here in the past five or ten years and all of a sudden there are two!! darn - forgot to take a camera.... FWIW, Carl B.

You should Post the VIN - it might not be yellow any longer...

I'm sure some of the guys have a good address for second hand engines. Actually, you are looking for a junk yard that will take the time, and go to the trouble of pulling an engine from a low mileage car, crating it for shipping, then meeting the shippers schedules for delivery to the Port. Most of the people that run junk yard here, make so much money, so easily, that they don't want to screw with anything that takes more of their time than it's worth to them. Add the risk of International debates over payment - and most simply will not get involved. At least around the Tampa Bay area - most of the junk yards have become "U-Pull-It" type in concept if not in name. A few of the junk yards still disassemble the cars themselves, but when they do they also have major re-builders as customers that buy specific parts by the train car load. Things like A/C compressors, alternators, starters, distributors, brakes etc. To keep the costs at their lowest point - you are better off finding someone on the East Coast of the U.S. - that is located near a shipping Port. Which makes it even harder to find anyone... Better to have your friend simply by new engines from GM in Europe... might be less expensive too. good luck, Carl B.

I hope that for fifteen hundred bucks - you got a heck of a lot more than new brakes!! FWIW, Carl B.

This is most likely a good example of a half-step. Meaning the owner took half steps between building a solid #3 example - and retaining the lower budget of a very nice #4 condition daily driver. Absolutely nothing wrong with doing what he did - preservation of a clean, well cared for 240-Z should be encouraged. He could keep it and enjoy it for years - and years from now it would most likely be worth twice what it is today. However taking half steps - will not yield a real #3 example, that would sell for between $14K and $16K. Metallic Brown is not a very "hot" retail color either, and the car has 100K plus miles..... so I'd expect bids up to $8,500.00 but not much over that on e-bay. Just my opinion... a) he should have done a complete repaint on a car that nice... he should have known that the seat covers were incorrect... c) he leaves some confusion related to the 240-Z Strip - did they paint around it??....da..... e) NO - properly set up - the 240-Z's do not shake at 55 mph... nor any other speed. If the front end is shaking - something is still WRONG. f) if he knows as much about 240-Z's as he says - he should have known that pictures of the exterior floorboards & frame rails, area under the battery, rear threshold etc. - should have been put on e-bay.. g) engine bay is clean, braided hose - but none of the original Cad. plated parts restored to their original look etc. So there is a long way to go there as well. It will be interesting to see what it brings.... E-Bay is always a crap shoot... FWIW, Carl B.

Place a 6 to 8 inch long metal drift in the slot ( a very dull, very dull metal chisel will work) - such that it is driving the gland nut off - and hit the drift with a big heavy hammer.. Once you have it broke loose - you can turn it with either the pipe wrench or the large channel locks. FWIW, Carl B.

Oh darn - wishful thinking on my part, put my glasses on and it does look like a Ford Capri back there. Carl B.

Hi ZSaint: PIR is in this case _ Portland International Raceway ??? A friend of mine that used to live in Washington State - bought a 1969 Production Year 240-Z, because he thought it would qualify for use in whatever historic series racing club events that were held in that area. Then he found out that the rule that said; ... for Sports Cars produced prior to 1970...... really meant that it was for sports cars "raced" prior to 1970. Seems the local historic racing club was formed by Porsche owners - and they didn't realize any 240-Z's had been produced prior to 1970. No problem, they just changed the interpretation of the rule to preclude the 240-Z's - then later changed the written rules as well.... FWIW, Carl B.

Wow.. a Datsun 610 in the background of the fourth picture!! Haven't seen any of them in years! Great car and still had the IRS.. Carl B.

John: Can you give us an example of what a "not real" carbon fiber hood or hatch would be made of? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Sean: Great trip report and great photos - and I'm really glad you made it to the places you did. I've been though that same route several times. I'm somewhat surprised that Crazy Horse isn't far more complete by now... most of his face was done 20 years ago. When you went through Custer State Park - did any of these guys (see below image) stop you to say hello? I had a picture of a buffalo with his face at my drivers side window, lookin in at me - but I can't find it now. I hope you got to see the heard at the park.... sometimes you have to drive right through them when they are on the road... Amazing how BIG they are.. Glad to hear you make it home safely... FWIW, Carl B.

I'm guessing that you have new braided stainless steel flexible lines - right? Or did you get new stainless steel replacements for the hard lines? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Nissanman (everyone) For others following this thread, I'll add "should" is the operative word in: "The hose end should be held captive by a metal clip allowing...." Perhaps due to age, many of the original metal clips have weakened and will not hold the the flexible hose end captive enough to prevent them from twisting. Perhaps too, the original flexible hoses have been replaced by some aftermarket parts - where the metal hose ends have smaller nuts... In those cases, as xray mentions.. you have to use a proper size wrench on them. "good" is the operative word in xray's comment; "a good 10mm flare nut wrench will take off your brakelines, ...." Believe me when I say that there is a huge difference between my Craftsman and Snap-on flare nut wrenches. After rounding off too many flare nuts - I coughed up the silly high price for the Snap-on tool.... and over the years its been worth every penny. It's not so much a case of the hard lines being expensive or cheap - it's a matter of having ones you can re-use when you need them - without trying to order them and getting them days or weeks later. Worse Case: If the flare nut, even with a good flare nut wrench, still won't come loose without the flare nut wrench slipping... I had a older still, cheap-off brand. flare nut wrench. I cut the end off it - then took the end to the grinder, and removed about half the outside metal. On "impossible" flare nuts, I slip the end of the flare nut tool over the flare nut - then squeeze it down tight on the flare nut with vice-grips. I've saved several flare nuts that way... In any case - the best advice is "Plan Ahead" - and if possible have a new set of hard lines on hand before you start. Hummmm ..... come to think of it, I need to add them to my next parts order... FWIW, Carl B.

Pull the door, glove box and deck lid locks out of the car - and take them to a Lock Smith, along with the key that starts/turns-off the ignition. He can re-key the locks to work with your best key. (then make you a new spare). FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Yes... I understand that the Bill and Rich will be coming down from Gainesville as well.... Carl B.

Hi Will: That's way to hectic....plan to stay over Saturday night - get some rest and leave Sunday. Far safer trip plan... You'll be too tired to leave right after standing around all day Saturday at the show... Carl B.

Hi Guys: Thanks - I responded via e-mail 2 July 07. dwalklet is going through the all too typical process of dealing with an insurance company's claims adjustor at this point. Usually, it goes something like: - a) the claims adjustor, through companies that offer such services, pulls the State's Sales Tax records for all 70-73 Datsun 240-Z's, to see within the past 12 to 18 months - what sales prices have been reported, such that the proper sales tax can be paid when a new title is requested. Then based on the average sales price reported - he makes an offer to settle the claim. Of course EVERYONE always states the true price they paid to the seller - such that they are allowed to pay the FULL amount of sales tax.. This usually results in values of $750.00 to $1,500.00 being the average "value" of a Datsun 240-Z. So the Claims Adjustor, wanting to please this customer, offers $1,850.00 in cash to total the car out. the owners says - ""wait a minute, I have a clean, low mileage "Classic Car" here - and it's worth $18,000.00 at least."" The Claims Adjustor says; -" OK - prove it Show me some comparable cars that sold for that amount in this market recently." The owner then takes the NADA Value Guide in - and the Claims Adjustor says "we don't take that - it's only a Value Guide, not comparable sales documentation. The next step for the owner is to take all For Sale ad's in to the Claims Adjustor - that support a value of $18K. So he has to find ad.'s for restored or nearly perfect original, 1969 production year 240-Z's - that could be "replacements" for his car.... Or any other Series I cars that sold say on e-bay for $16K to $25K +. One such sale - is listed on another thread (Steve's Orange 71 in Colo that sold for $14K) The problem with e-bay is that if you didn't keep the item number from the auction before it ended, or the URL to begin with - you have a hard time finding sales that have ended in the past. So does anyone have some old URL's or Item Numbers from e-bay that would apply here? Series I cars in #3 or #2 Condition? that sold for something above $14K even? I know many have, but I didn't keep the old listings... remember a #3 car "looks like new" to the average person looking at it... and a #2 car is a real show winner... FWIW, Carl B.