Carl Beck

The Nissan Vintage Z Program: Can really be viewed as a small part of a far larger Public Relations and Marketing initiative intended to promote Nissan's Brand Name in America, launched by Nissan Motors Ltd., in an attempt to regain market share though increased sales in America. Mr. Hanawa, taking over the reigns of leadership at Nissan Motors Ltd. in 1996, was faced with a very grim reality; Nissan Motors Ltd. was drowning in red ink, and on the verge of total collapse. Mr. Hanawa was convinced that the Factory had lost touch with its Customers and in turn lost market share during the preceding two decades. Two major goals were critical to Nissan's survival at that point; reestablish a personal connection with Nissan's customers and look for a White Knight to help bail Nissan Motors Ltd. out before a total collapse. Listening to his Customers in the American market - Mr. Hanawa realized that Nissan had lost its Flagship model - and that there was still great interest in its return - abet in a more affordable reincarnation. (the 96 300XZ TT's were priced at $48K in America)... He also realized that not only had Nissan lost its Flagship - it had NOT been designing and building the cars American's wanted to buy - rather it had been building the cars that Nissan wanted to sell; and they had not been at all competitive in a changing American market. In an effort to re-connect to his American Customers - Mr. Hanawa approved the advertising budget that launched the campaign to return the image of both Mr. Katayama and the Datsun 240-Z to their rightful place in the memories of the American Market. This $200,000,000.00 investment in brand image was a complete reversal of Nissan's direction in America taken in the preceding 20 years. By 1997 Mr. Hanawa had launched a complete model line redesign effort within Nissan Design, aimed at supplying new and exciting models to Nissan's beleaguered Authorized US Dealers, and he was actively courting a partnership with any automobile manufacturer capable of infusing the significant cash flow necessary to keep Nissan Motors Ltd. at least alive. He found that partner in Renault.... He also found a partner in the form of Carlos Ghosn, who agreed that Nissan Motors needed to reconnect with its Customers and exciting new models were one of the main answers to Nissan Motors Ltd. ills. While Mr. Hanawa did get the spotlight to announce "We Will Build It".... It was Mr. Ghosn that was on stage as all the new and exciting models started to roll off the production lines of Nissan Motors.... Was the "Nissan Vintage Z Program" - a Factory Program? It most certainly was. It's real significances however is that it will serve as a bookmark for the larger strategic efforts originally launched by Mr. Hanawa, as he sacrificed himself to save Nissan. Authorizing a $200 Million Dollar PR and Marketing Campaign aimed at America, as well as directing a redesign of the complete model line-up - when you are already $20 Billion in debt was a huge gamble... but one that paid off. Amazing what you can do if you don't care who gets the credit. Katayama was restored to his proper place of honor and success at Nissan, Mr. Ghosn got the credit for the turn-around {some of which he deserved} and Mr. Hawana retired into the setting sun... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: Thanks for the pictures... it is simply wonderful to see a Datsun 240-Z at the front of the pack 38 years after it's introduction. Maybe it's just me - but I hate to see "NISSAN" on a DATSUN 240-Z here in the States. I wonder how much money he is getting from NISSAN for the advertising? Maybe we could offer him more to put DATSUN back on the car.. regards, Carl B.

Depends on the exact Brand and Type... In "as new" condition, with the mold nipples still there: If it's from a 69 production or very early 70 car - $175.00 to $250.00 {175R14Bridgestone Super Speed 20 on a 69 production rim for example might be worth $250+ to the right person. 175R14 Bridgestone RD-150 somewhat less.} All depends on who is bidding and how many they already have} If it's from a car produced between 6/70 and 1/71 - and if it's the right Brand and Type..$125.00 to $150.00. If it's a Toyo Radial Z-1 - $75.00 to $125.00... Depends on the exact Brand and Type... and when it's offered on E-Bay... FWIW, Carl B.

.... and back in the day.... sometimes the Z's were "updated" in appearance because of Factory Contingency Money or outright sponsorships... to promote whatever model was "currently" being sold at the Dealerships... All of which makes it very hard to track the progression of historic cars with photographs from different periods... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi E: I just went and dug out the parts... and looking at them carefully - To tell you the truth - I think I got the terms right as applied to the parts for the Z. The lower portion of the rear window guide - is named "rubber"... but I'm not positive of exactly what the material is. On the one hand it seems like a very hard foam rubber, but on the other hand it feels like, or has the texture of a rubberized compressed felt... At any rate: The Nissan Parts Catalog lists them as: (see attached Page below) Item #5 - Felt-Glass Run Door 80335-E4102 Item #6 - Rubber - Glass Run Door 80336-E8700 If you order #5 above - -- What you get is 80335-N3700... and it is described as "Felt-Glass Run Door" in the Parts Catalog - but when it shows up, the new Part Number Tag says: "Guide-Front WIN". {it is the same part number for the 2+2 up to 6/75} It fits fine as I have already installed one set on one of my 72 240-Z's. #5 - would appear to be a rubber base - with Fuzzy Felt applied on top of three surfaces as you describe. The rubber base is then in contact with the metal frame... and the fuzzy felt surfaces wrap around the glass. Thus it is called "Felt-Glass Run Door". #6 - would appear to be either a very hard foam rubber it's texture does look a bit like compressed felt.. but there is no fuzzy felt bonded to it, like there is on item #5, nor is it made of pure felt. FWIW, Carl B.

Bummer.. sorry to hear that... Carl B.

A proven fact in Motor Home use, where the brake lines are 35 feet long. Not really a problem in a 240-Z. True - it takes a lot of effort to bleed the brake system using DOT 5, and you do have to be careful not to aggitate it. Not recommended for "Competition Cars". Everything in life is a trade off of some kind. I've used DOT 5 in all my 240-Z's for over 30 years now. Saved a ton on money and greef on corroaded wheel cylinders, master cylinders and clutch systems. Very few of us are driving our 240-z's every day... and DOT 5 is ideal for cars given limited use and exposed to sitting for prolonged periods.. FWIW, Carl B.

Let us know what it turns out to be - but I agree with bobc - dead short in the battery. Had that happen to a brand new battery - it drove me nuts for a week trying to figure out what was happening... Took the battery in for a "Load Test" and the short showed up. The battery would take and hold a charge.... so I thought it was good, especially because it was new.... live and learn.... good luck, Carl B.

Check the front differential mount !!... lay under the car, put your strong arm/hand under the nose of the differential -PUSH UP AS HARD AS YOU CAN. If you can push the front of the differential up - the front mount is broken - replace it. Secondly - there is a "strap" that runs over the top of the nose of the differential - make sure that is in place and stoping the upward movement of the nose of the differential - that strap is there to help prevent breaking the front differential mount - by limiting the upward movement of the nose of the differential under acceleration from rest. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ryan: As I recall..... when you have the ignition switch on the "START" position, it by-passes the ballast resister and feeds 12 volts directly to the coil, when the switch returns to the "RUN" position the voltage going to the coil, is run though the ballast resister.... So if you have checked the ignition switch - check to see if you are getting voltage through the ballast resister. Many times it is as simple as a bad connection, broken wire or lose connection. Good luck, Carl B.

Hi Kats: Oh by the way - the reason I ask about finding and restoring some of the 240-Z's that were raced by either the Factory Backed Teams or Private Teams in Japan; was because it would seem that some of them should still be around, and maybe not as sought after as the 432's have been so far. Might be a good time to find one of them to buy and restore. Brian Long lists 16 races as "Notable outright victories in Japan" between 4/70 and 4/75. After the 240-Z was introduced into the competition in 7/70 the 240-Z's won 10 of the remaining 14. 3 Drivers are listed for the four 432 victories, but 6 different drivers are listed for the 240-Z's 10 victories - so it would seem that given the larger number of drivers, if not cars - some of the 240-Z's would have been located and restored to their historic spec.'s by now. Does Nissan have any in their collection in Japan? Have you located any of the original Drivers? As you know several of the noteworthy Drivers of the early Z's are still active in the Z Car Community here in the States and several of the early Championship cars are being or have been restored. <a href=http://www.canepa.com/inventory/racecar/240z.html TARGET=NEW>Brad Frisselle's IMSA GTU Championship Z</a> The "asking" price is $275K regards, Carl B.

Hi Kats: As always, very interesting. Do you have captions, for the pictures of Mr. Miyazaki? Is that him standing by the Z's and 510? What year was it taken? As I understand it - the conflict between the former Prince employees (Skyline Group?) and Nissan employees (Z Group?) continued far into the 90's. More understandable now, if Nissan used Prince's engine for the 432, but not the people that developed it, it would cause some hard feelings. It is a shame that Nissan Management allowed the two groups to compete within the corporation for so many years. Mass production and the sale of the Skylines in the US might have added significantly to the NISSAN brand here, as well as adding sorely needed revenue. The story is that when Renault took over - the Skyline group was finally forced to join the rest of the Nissan line-up. Of course the RB engine plant was shut down, the Nissan Competition Dept. in the USA was consolidated into the overall NISMO umbrella etc. So we might finally see the new Skylines sold here in the US. Of course with the very cheap cars predicted by Carlos and Toyota coming from China, we might well see the "DATSUN" brand brought back to the States as well. They are all saying a new car will be about $6K in the near future.... As a side note - seeing the 510 in the picture you Posted and speaking of the return of DATSUN, here is a picture of my latest Datsun - a 1972 510 Station Wagon! It has about 200K miles, is mostly all original, and runs like a top. The original engine has never been taken apart, and with the exception of the hood, left front fender and door - the paint is all original. I'm the third owner now. As much fun to drive today as it was in 1972. regards, Carl B.

Anyone have Brian Little's E-Mail Address? thanks, Carl B.

Window Channel Felt - Rubber ? They are both. The Felt runs from just below the door panel, at the rear of the door - up around the window frame, to the front side. Below the Felt, on the rear of the door - there is a piece about 18" long that is rubber. I believe that the rubber supplies firmer grip on the window glass when it is all the way down. (just a guess)... FWIW, Carl B. BTW - I thought that Bambikiller240 had removed ALL his Posts to this Site... yes deleted them before his death - were they restored from older archives - now that he is no longer here to protest?

The Seller didn't list the original VIN - so who knows what he did? Could have been an early 260Z shell - maybe he has a set of 260Z tail lights sitting around... FWIW, Carl B.

NO Carl B.

Hi Fuzz: Almost anything is possible - if you are willing and able to spend the time and money. Many people building high performance L28's prefer to us the older N42 blocks, because the coolant circulates better and the cylinders are cooled in a more even fashion. So you could use that block for sure. The L28ET's ran dished piston's with large cc combustion chambers - to attain the most volume at the lowest compression ratio. This allowed the most boost to be applied without engine knock/pre-detonation; more boost results in more HP than less boost with higher compression to begin with. So you would want to use dished piston's... maybe you can get a set from your local Nissan Dealer, and if not, you would want to spend the money on a set of aftermarket forged pistons. The P90 head would be the best if you can find one. If not, no super big deal... you can rework almost any of the heads - but you would want to attain the largest possible combustion chamber size along with the largest valves you can install. The L28ET's used Turbo Rod Bolts, and the higher capacity Turbo Oil Pump (for more flow to/from an oil cooler). You could use the ARP Head Bolts / Studs...and order the Tubo Oil Pump from Nissan. The L28ET used higher flow Fuel Injectors..... you can order them from Nissan or buy in the aftermarket. Lastly there are several modern Engine Management Systems that are far better than the original one's Nissan used - you would want to use one of them anyway.... After that - it all depend on how much HP you want to make - the stock L28ET's ran about 8lbs of boost and did not use any intercooler - you can easily run 11 lbs with cast pistons and an intercooler - or go higher with forged pistons and a larger intercooler. So 225HP to 300HP is a pretty easy goal to attain. I'd guess you would spend about 6 months planing, detailing and gathering all the stuff you would need for the engine build - and perhaps $8K to $10K. Then you'd have to spend a few more dollars upgrading the rear-end and half-shafts, upgrading the brakes, and running wider tires etc. That should give you at least an idea of what you would be looking at... FWIW, Carl B.

Note how smoothly Greg is driving..... acceleration, deceleration, braking, turning... nothing done in a jerky or reactionary fashion... precise..smooth... Great video... Carl B.

Hi Brian (everyone)) To each his own.... but for the life of me, I can't understand why anyone would replace, rather than eliminate the fuel vapor hoses that run into the cabin. It was a stop gap measure at best, to comply with the California ARB rules in effect in 1970. Wasn't even required in the other 49 States nor Canada at the time. You can't see any of them without taking the car apart either... If you have fuel dripping down the side of the car, just behind the right rear wheel - you most likely need to replace the Fuel Filler Neck - the long, large rubber hose that connects the fuel filler to the fuel tank. They dry out and crack, when you put the nozzle of the gasoline pump in them, then lean on the pump handle. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Lee: Thanks. That is pretty much the spring spec.'s we used to have the OEM Stock springs reproduced. FWIW, Carl B.

OK - now were at least making progress... I'm not sure exactly when Nissan stopped putting the original engine serial numbers on the Data Plates. I was thinking it was with the begining of the 280ZX's ... but it would seem that the 78's are quite different than the 75's. As you can see from the Data Tag I posted a picture of VIN HLS30 200207 had Engine Number L28-001482 As the VIN's on the 280Z's started with HLS30 200001 - the car above was the 207th one built. Given the VIN on your Z - of HLS30 451125, we would expect to see an engine number about 251xxx higher (451125 minus 200001 = 251124) ... and sure enough you have 254234. (they don't run in exact numerical sequence). Also - HLS30 452525 has L28 259635 as it's original engine... So I would say it is most likely the original engine in your Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Either you aren't looking hard enough at the Data Plate on the Strut Tower.... or someone has cut it down to only the VIN... and the entire top part of the Data Plate is missing... Take a pencil and piece of paper with you - and maybe a flash light... The Data Tag on the car should look a lot like the one pictured below ... As you can clearly see - the ENGINE NUMBER 001482 is listed just above the VIN.... HLS30 200207 There are TWO little pads cast into the block - it would seem you took the 254234 number off the second one, and failed to see the L28 stamped into the first pad (first being the one on the left). Go look again... BTW - it would help of you stated what the VIN on the car is... FWIW, Carl B.

It might not be overkill , IF you were converting to DOT 5, while retaining all the original parts. Frankly I wouldn't bother at that point. I'd just flush the brake system with clean DOT 3/4. I do convert the brake systems on my cars, the first time I do a complete rebuild of the brake system, and I only flush out the hard lines with DOT 5... I've never bothered to clean them out with alcohol and blow them out with air... I've always felt that the pressure exerted by the brake master/and your foot on the pedal - forced the DOT 5 though the hard lines with enough pressure to clear out all the old DOT 3/4...... I could be wrong, but in 35 years I've never had any problems result from that process. Most of my 240-Z's sit a lot, it is very humid here in Florida all the time.. and if I don't convert to DOT 5 - I have to replace or rebuild the rear wheel cylinders every couple years (they are getting very expensive!!). Being aluminum, the rear wheel cylinders are only repairable (rebuild-able), IF you catch them before the corrosion has pitted the cylinder walls... which usually is not the case. Also the front calipers do tend to hang up and drag when left sitting with DOT 3/4 type fluids. That too has been eliminated by the use of the DOT 5. DOT 5 is NOT recommended for competition use - where you are going to heat the front brakes up to the point that it melts the bearing grease etc... Besides, you change the brake fluid after each track event anyway.. FWIW, Carl B.

If the clutch master is holding the clutch fluid - and the push rod at slave is in fact moving the clutch fork rearward about an inch and half..... all that is working at this point. If the clutch master was getting low - due to a very small, slow leak somewhere, when you were driving the car - then when you pushed on the clutch pedal to shift gears - the clutch itself may not have been fully disengaging at that point.... and you could have damaged either the clutch itself or the transmission. Since you said that the clutch pedal offers no resistance (even after bleeding it, even with all fluid levels full)..... I'd have to guess that the clutch disc or the pressure plate itself failed. With a good transmission - it is possible to start a 240-Z in first gear - and let it roll forward, then to build the RPM's up to around 2800... and shift it from 1st to 2nd with no clutch... This however is something that takes some practice, to get the right feel for the needed RPM's etc. .... Not something that is easy to explain, nor walk you though with words here... If you can start it in gear, and shift from 1st to 2nd without the clutch - then you know the tranny is OK, and it's the clutch itself that when out... But like I said - it is not something you want to try to learn with the car in its current condition... It won't hurt anything to go ahead and change the clutch master and slave out at this point - but if that doesn't do it - you'll more than likely have to pull the tranny and inspect the clutch assembly. FWIW, Carl

Z or ZX if it is an L28 the engine serial number will begin with "L28" Get the Engine Serial Number - and we'll see if we can match it up with something close - for which we would have an idea of the date of manufacture. The "F54" is one type of casting number found on the lower part of the block. Carl B.