Brett240

using a 4.1 is more for a car that would be used as an acceleration machine, 4.1's generally rev pretty high on the free way, lots of noise and more fuel consumption/engine wear. if your starting from scratch its better to play it safe, try a 3.9 first.

i use a 3.7 with a 3 litre engine, it feels just a little too tall, i dont like doing 10 million rpm down the highway so i prefer a tall geared car though, i'd like a 3.9, whcih would feel about right, but it depends on your driving habits i guess, do you do alot of highway driving?

ive got a 2/1/2 inch system with a single resonator after the extractors and a glasspack straight through muffler at the tail. this is way too loud, big time 2000rpm resonance, difficult to hold a conversation. ill be putting on a proper muffler in the tail with baffles.

in short your better off buying a good running car

i dont have a strap on the front mount as ive got a custom front mount, its not a solid mount though it has a rubber bush in it so it has some flex, i hope this isnt the problem. The diff is fine, i had it reco'd as i originally thought the diff was stuffed until i saw the moustache bar, it wasnt the problem. when the bar let go i was getting a bit of axle tramp and then BANG as it let go and the diff hit the underside floor. i hope it your right and maybe it was a one off, ive got a spare to go in, im taking it to the drags in two weeks so if its another problem it will show up then!

to check if the oil/distributer pump shaft timing is correct put NO 1 piston on Top dead center, then remove your dizzy. get a really thick screw driver and lie it inline with the blade on the oil/dizzy pump shaft. the screw driver shaft should just NOT cover the two bolt holes that the distributer bolts go in, the bottom of the screw driver should be towards the front of the car. now this makes sense in my mind but reading it back looks pretty complicated, hope this helps.

hi guys, while going for a hard drive the moustache bar on my R200 diff just snapped clean in half, more like a shatter. is this a common thing? has anyone had any success with metal strengthening treatments like cryogenic freezing?

dont use any oil's that have "for high performance, turbocharged engines" or anything like that. these oils are made for todays engines whcih have very tight tolerances. these oils are generally way too thin for a zed engine (mobil 1 i being 5w50 from memory) and can cause piston slap (from personal experience). a synthetic oil is the best choice AS LONG as its the right grade. i run 20w50 with a 1500 mile old engine, if youve got 100, 000+ miles a 20w60 is more the shot. most sraight 30W minerals oils dont have many (or any) additives and polymers in them to protect your engine so be careful what you by.

hey brian just wondering, what kind of MPG do you get with the mikuni's? are they hard to keep in tune?

www.simmonswheel.com.au

hey 260 red where are you located???

the shipping is no problem, ive got good freight contacts AUS wide, lets just hope the spoiler itself doesnt cost more than my car did! ill find out of the weekend what it will cost and whats involved.

it could be another custom piece mounted straight off the bumper mounts

sending it up is no problems, i can get it overnight to Brisbane pretty cheap. ill post when i have details.

ive been talking to a mate who might be able to make up a mold for a look alike spoiler, if i can get it done is anyone interested in one? i guess the more we make the cheaper they'll get.

hi guys, ive embarked on a search for this front spoiler, does anyone know who's car this is, what country its from, who makes it? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=64&size=big&papass=&sort=1&thecat= Cheers, Brett

if you run a turbo, run fuel injection. a carbed setup is a nightmare

our cars are right hand drive too just to let you know.

if the engine is standard it will be fuel injeted for sure, it may or may not have a turbo on it though. if you want a carbie setup just take off the intake manifold and bolt on your carbies, they will fit right up to the P90 head. if it has a turbo on it and you want to run the turbo you will have to leave the fuel injection on it. if its a turbo it will have dished pistons, if it isnt it will (hopefully) have flatops.

i see, what do you use to get the gland nut off?

GEEEZ! i think ill stick with my lightened stocker:eek:

Zmefly you found it extremely easy? you must tell me this easy way. on mine its nothing but a pain in the arse. i'd rather change the clutch.

nah when you order struts you will get dampers or shocks. springs are springs. putting in springs is a pain. you will need spring clamps and a funny tool to take off the top caps. if you've never done it before you'll save some time and frustation by getting them installed at a suspension place.

i can only guess at the weight george, but if the flywheel weighs 13.5KG and im pretty sure thats close they have removed about 2KG. it did make a noticable difference, the car was happier to rev and the throttle responce was definatly stronger. as the flywheel is out of the car at the moment i figure if it wont make the car difficult to drive id like to take out a little more.

dunno bout bying one but i had mine 'street' lightened and balanced with the clutch and pressure plate for AUD 120