Brett240

i have a stage 3 crow cam in mine, its a bit of a lumpy thing, needs 1000rpm idle. mines nearly a daily driver. for this cam you'll need your choke to work properly because it wont run without it when its dead cold. it makes a nice difference though with the hammer down. there is one problem with crow cams however: there cam card does not state .050 valve timing and instead quotes .075. this is totally useless, and makes cam timing a hit and miss affair. if you ring up crow they still cant give you .050. Camtech is a good brand that makes L series cams and their cam cards will have the correct info on them, give them a try.

Thanks for your help guys, well i pulled out the thermostat last night and took it for a 45 min drive. while moving the car was cooler than it had ever been before, running about half as hot on the temp gauge and the engine felt stronger too. when i hit traffic up went the gauge again, and on came the heater, which barely could keep it from overheating. its great on the move though, so i figure it needs more cooling when stationary. im going to try twin thermo fans and im going to flush the whole system out on the weekend and see what happens.

you just sparked my memory, thats spot on.

i nice big heat shield in between the intake and exhaust can help, the stock one is pathetic.

you got it Jeff, having the intake and exhaust on the one side increase intake temperatures, and reduces power.

yeah no worries ive got 5 in the back yardLOL

i might give that a try and see what happens, unfortunatly in NSW its still pretty cold in the mornings this time of the year, and a combo of the extra warmup time with no thermostat and my almost non existant exhaust system does wonders for the neighbor to neighbor relationships!

the Z432R had a twin cam cross flow head, could that be the one your thinking of?

well thats another story alltogether. it seems nissan in their infinite wisdom have replaced the original design thermostat with an updated version which has a diameter that is too big for the hole! being a little frustrated by this i grinded the outside of the thermostat down on a bench grinder until it fit in the hole. AND as far as i can tell its in as properly as its going to get. is there a replacement aftermarket thermostat that will fit?

if a design defies logic its obviously to cut costs. maybe it was cheaper and easier to have a pre-crossflow, after all the 240z was built to a price

OK, now that ive found the new thread button (thanks for your insightful help Alfadog!) heres my problem. my engine has always run a little warm butover the last few days my engine has been overheating pretty badly, mostly in traffic. its got a 3 core radiator, 10 inch thermo fan (which due to my electrical prowess is currently on fulltime) and i replaced the thermstat last night. It still overheated in traffic this morning. heres the thing, i tested the old thermstat in a pot and it remained closed even when the water was boiling, so i thought this HAS to be the problem, but alas the new thermostat hasnt helped (maybe a little bit). any ideas?

hey guys forgive my ignorance but now that the new thread option is gone how do i start a new thread?

thats strange becouse mine does, its all 1 piece from the behind the seat all the way to behind the front seat mount. while its possible longer pieces of carpet have been added in my car i doubt it becouse all the original carpeting on the rest of the floors seems original and the original quilting is in place, what do you other guys have?

That one was supposed to be more of a retro car looking back to the 240 (its in there somewhere). nissan changed it because they didnt want to go "backwards" with their designs and wanted to look to the future.

i saw the two minute preview at the movies on friday night and was blown away, with australias rules for advertising cars i was suprised they would let this be shown on the big screen.

possibly all of the above, i might have some bad electics in the fuel pump as its only starting playing up during all this constant rain weve been having in sydney this week

I just had the same problem on the way to work this morning, the car starting running like a bag of s#$t then toatally stopped. i got out, quickly checked over the fuel system, everything looked ok, it started up fine and i drove it the rest of the way. what the hell is going on???

not sure but i expect the same ratio as th US auto's

then your car would already be sitting lower than usual with the original springs. if you get springs that are to lower the car an inch from stock ride hide you might find the car could actually go even higher, because your springs have sagged so much. going to stiffer springs and shocks, you should be able to keep your current ride hight and stop the rubbing becouse your setup wont compress as much over bumps as the saggy old setup

thats strange, i used to run 215 65 14's and they didnt rub. where are they rubbing? on the guards or inside the wheel well? if its on the guards, then you almost definatly have the wrong offset wheels, as you can get a 225 under there with no dramas. if its rubbing inside the wheel well then just how low is your car?

5 speed 240z in Australia and a assume UK aswell had 3.9 R180's.FYI. i have one under my house.

well i figure ill have this exhaust for a while so illl do it right the first time and not have to worry about the thing for years.

stainless steel pipes and mufflers dont rust.