Brett240

yeah oil stains arent easy to get off walls and floors but at least they cover up the coolant stains!

first off when changing up wheel sizes in most cases the aim is to keep your overall wheel tyre diameter combo the same to keep your gearing the same. by increasing the diameter the cars theoretical top speed will increase and acceleration will decrease, vice versa for decreasing tyre diameter. if you change from a 14 inch wheel to a 15 inch wheel, to keep the overall diameter the same you now need a 15 inch tyre with a lower aspect ratio (distance from outside of wheel rim to the start of your tread ). this has 2 effects, with a smaller aspect ratio there is less rubber to flex, effectivly stiffening your ride and improving handling. the lower the ratio the better you grip and braking... to a point. if you put heavy 20 inch wheels on your car it will increase unsprung weight to a point where you will stuff your cars handling characteristics. generally a 17 inch wheel is considered the best compomise. hope this helps

ive found checking lash pads with the cover off while the engine is running is a good way to lube up your engine bay.....and the car.... and the entire garage.

hi steven , yeah i might have to get stuart to have a proper look, ive got it pretty close but this engine revs to 7000 often so i want it perfect. yeah im in the sydney z club are you?

ahh ok, whats the story with these events? im pretty interested. is there a listing of upciming events somewhere?

sorry im unfimiliar with the term TRE

i was thinking more targa road events, i dont want to cover my paint job in to many stone chips! i was pretty geared up to run in this years east coast classic with my car as is. it only requires a CAMS 2 licence, but the touring class ( no cage ) has a course speed limit! thats why i was looking at a cage but im not to keen on having the tubes run through the ends my dashboard.

thanks for that! yeah i heard that using no pistons rings decreases sliding friction too! ROFL

aah bugger, how much of a cage do you need anyway? i was looking into a stage 3 cams licence, whats the national rally licence?

i was thinking of doing it while the engine was running.

i was actually thinking about wacking a cage in mine anyway and running it in the classic adelaide and east coast classic, i suppose the site emblazoned down the side wouldnt hurt...

thanks alot for your help guys! 2manyz's yeah if you can scan the pad contact that would be great, ill order that book off amazon to.:classic:

i will put my hand up for the part no one wants in austalia... DRIVING!

cheers, thanks for your help! i thought it might be something like trial and error, bugger. nothing is ever easy:classic:

the z club of sydney just had a dyno night where we had an oil additive called Bi-tron added to a car in back to back results. made 2 kilowatts difference, it was then added to the diff and gearbox but lost the gain. weird. its supposed to cool temps and increase efficiancy and make oil stick better, comes out of canada, anyone else use it?

yeah they are genuine nissan valves and retainers with 100 pound springs. ah ok by radius you mean from the centre of the cam to end of lob tip? then your right it will have an effect. thats valve lift i think which i have above, the thing is i just dont know how to figure it out.

stem height is standard but cam radius? i wouldnt think that would have an effect on lash pad thickness.

hi guys, does anyone know what height lash pad to run with this cam? in 40/72 dur in 292 lift in .495" ex76/40 dur ex 296 lift ex .510" Blindly hoping... Brett

carlos has a lot of zeds in his yard but bugger all 240's. the problem is he parts come of of wrecks that have no cover so alot of them are stuffed. he's got alot of mechanical stuff, diff's gearboxes, mounts, that kind of thing.

yeah thats my z, though i was unaware i was going overseas do you want to fill me in?

oy yeah the fan should start slipping not long after idle speed i think it should go no more than a constant 2000rpm. i got sick of even that noise and bought a 12 inch thermo fan, they come with wiring instructions and are relativly easy to hook up. you will have almost no fan noise and as a bonus pickup a few HP's.

meestapeta, you should be able to get a whole fan real cheap from a wrecker. just spin it and check it. and yeah the cars a blast to drive:classic: nothing quite puts a smile on my face like it!

spin it as hard as you can and it should go around about 180 degrees.

you said your car has a k & n filter and a large diameter intake. with this kind of setup on acceleration you will be able to hear the intake roar or whoosh as it sucks. are you sure its not this?

hey a 240 with 18's?! you got any photos?