Dtsnlvrs

Yeah I replaced the coil too, as well as the points with a pertronix unit. It baffles me still because when I wired the MSD, I did not cut any part of the harness. I made a harness for the MSD that was "plug n play" The only thing I can figure is as the tach ages, it becomes sensitive to variances in the inductive signal it gets from a hot coil. Remember I replaced mine with a new one...NOS been sitting on a shelf for 25+ years

And the Astroglide :devious:

www.hybridz.org those guys specialize in V8 and other engine swaps. However I have put a 5.0L Mustang motor into a Z with little difficulty.

Holley RED pump.

My late 70 (Nov 70) has the same features. Judging by the photos I would say that it does not have a cap on it. However, it is the wrong carpet, and choke handle. And the replacement shift boot would be what he has installed.

I had the same issue with my 70 when I bought it. I replaced the tach with a new one at that time and the issue remained. Then I started researching. Follow me here. The tach in a 240 is of an inductive loop type. That means that power comes FROM the ignition, THRU the tach, TO the coil. The tach reads the electrical pulses of the coil via an inductive loop. British cars of the same vintage used the same setup. I chased down every part of the harness I could and never resolved the issue until I installed a MSD 6A with a tach adapter. Now my tach reads perfect. The tach adapter provides a false grounding signal for the tach.

A: 87 if it is stock B: Not enough for the weight of the car C: www.zcarparts.com www.blackdragonauto.com

I am interested in another project...send pics and more info my way.

I highly doubt that the main shaft nut backed off on a 83 5sp. The 81-83 5sp main shaft nut is LH thread. However you are correct that a loose shaft nut will cause gear popping problems. Marty, I would also replace the tranny mount insulator while you are at it.....Youd be amazed to find after all your hard work to get the shifter to clear then years down the road have to re-do it when you install a new tranny mount.

You will need the inner shift boot from a 72-78, as well as the hold down ring and screws that go with it. Using the ring as a template...lay it over the exhisting hole with the aft edges lined up....mark your cut area to the front. Now you can cut all that area out and then intstall the boot and ring as is, or cut out just what you need to..and modify the boot by trimming off the bottom lip...when you get the boot you will see it and go "AHHH". The ring is NLA so you will have to scrounge one, any from 72-78 will work. As far as the console goes....you may need to trim the fiberglass from the front bottom of your shifter opening, bout 1/4 to 1/2in, then re-attach your outer (pleather) shift boot. I re-bent my shift lever instead of cut and weld but it works great.

I would go with a 215/60/14 or a 225/60/14....the 205 is very short for a 14in tire.

The FI harness is completely separate from the rest of the wiring harness....mostly. Just remove it completly, to include the ECU, and go from there.

That settles it, when I retire form the service, I am going to open a Z shop in upstate SC...hows "Anderson Z" sound??? Or if I can get permission from Doug Smith in Tacoma...."Fairlady Motors East"

If wired in correctly, the tach adapter works like a charm, it even smoothes out the tach pulses, so a previously erratic tach will now function beautifuly.

Go with a swap from a L-28et. The L-24E had smaller rod bearing journals, and could be destroy itself very easily when boosted. Just remember that the Maxima used a front sump system, so the pan will have to be swapped from the L-24E engine, and the oil dipstick tube will have to be located forward like the L-24E. When you look at the block, you can see where the block was cast with the capability of either pan system.

When I was stationed in Italy, and had the local shop weld up my strut tubes, after sectioning them for coilovers and shoter inserts, they heavily coated the outside of my new inserts with bearing grease. Just thought I would throw that out there. I myself use Redline MTL...always have some around and just a little will do the trick.

Aint that the truth...we used to wander between La Vela and The Spinaker all day long and into the night during my College days.

Try Ebay...I have seen a few on there every once in awhile

Helps having a retired Navy Navigator for a co-driver. I was at Fred's last night and you guys officially suck....I could only "do" one big event this year and chose ZdayZ. Maybe next year in FLA, however I would still recomend ZdayZ to anyone. Glad yall had a great time there. On a side note....we rebuilt the carbs for Fred's '69 daily driver...the high numbered one...runs pretty good, but I still want to finish a proper tune-up on it for him, maybe next weekend. I am running out of time to help my ZCCNV friends before I move on to my next assignment though.

David, PM sent...also might be interested in the L-24..will send another PM

Duct Tape works great

I dont have a clue about the JTR kit and chevy motors...I always did v8 conversions with Ford 5.0 motors. Sorry no help here, however www.hybridz.org may be of help.

No clue, however I do not think it would matter which one went left or right

ROFL