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Okay.. Yesterday up on opening the radiator cap, I noticed the coolant level to low in the radiator, some must have evaporated ? I did a simple thing first, I went to the local auto parts store and got a can of Wyns coolant system flush. Followed the instructions and flushed it, then filled it with new coolant. I took it for a drive this morning it was allready 30c. The temp meter stayed a fair bit lower, let's say between 1/2 and 3/4. Will take it for a drive into Germany this afternoon, see what it will do..

Yeah.. it does cool best so far when driving at higher speeds, to me that looks like a radiator problem. I'm going to try to flush it out..see what it does.

@ jonathan: my dad said about the same thing yesterday, flush the radiator with acid. @ Stanley: I will have a look @ Zed head: the oil pressure reads ok. @ Chas: going to check the radiator today Thermostat was changed last year, but it could be. I'm going to check a few things today. Yesterday was a hot day around 28c, and on idle the needle basically got all the way into the red, only when driving on the highway it got a bit cooler, but still very hot like a little over 3/4. When the engine is running idle, I can feel the fan sucking the air when I hold my hand in front of the radiator, I assume the fan is working properly ? My first thought would be radiator, because simply it hasn't been replaced either flushed so far..

Yes the pump was replaced last year, everything seemed fine on the inside.

My oem radiator is not cooling enough, especially on the highway when driving above 75 mph for longer than 5 minutes it gets to hot, the needle on the dash goes almost all the way to the right. I want to keep the Original radiator instead of an aluminium one, I have found a good radiator shop, but they charge 350 EURO for re-coring ex tax. Would this be worth it ? The better aluminium radiators including shipping will be the same price or more, only the cheaper aluminium aftermarket radiators would be a cheaper option right now. What would you guys advice ? Or is there anyone here who has a good oem 240z radiator for sale willing to ship overseas ? Gr Bart

Very nice Z ! Is that rear over rider bar normal, it looks to big ? Mine is different.

Yes Chas is right, please put a new master brake cylinder, it isn't worth the risk... If you start bleeding my advice is don't open the bleeders on the master cylinder, only with the front calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Fill up the reservoir and open up the front 2 bleeding screws first. Then gently pump ( use brake pedal ) the fluid into the lines and calipers, note:keep the reservoir filled, untill it comes out of the bleeding screws then close them, repait with the rear. Then when all beelding screws close you should allready have brake pressure, a little more bleeding is needed then, but that's the quickest way to get the air out, or of course you could get a vacuum bleeder..

Use the page from the FSM and do it yourself ( if possible ) or find a real garage that knows what they are doing. We do know that your brake is not releasing properly, there are many things that can cause that.

Best moment ? Mmmm... I usually get comments or thumbs up wherever I go, that's pretty cool . Not much early Z car around here, mostly European vintage cars and American.

It would be better to have no drain holes at all. Air+water = rust It looks like you might need a new undercoating aswell

I think you allready mentioned the most important things yourself...the most important one: finding a solid car to begin with. The costs to restore are usually higher then when you buy a 240Z that's alllready 90% done like members above here also say.

Rear hatch seems to be changed and some other things aswell.. Datsun Z Series 240Z Series 1 | eBay

Looking good ! :classic:

Found some more http://i.cubeupload.com/il4ZNG.jpg http://i.cubeupload.com/VLhdNS.jpg http://i.cubeupload.com/PzeKFj.jpg http://i.cubeupload.com/UnlDMZ.jpg http://i.cubeupload.com/jV8cjY.jpg http://i.cubeupload.com/4srYEr.jpg

I went to Japan Classic Sunday 2014 today. Only 2 other 240Z's showed up. One Dutch " Euro " 240Z from late 73 I guess ( registery date showed april 74 ) with a 5 speed. And another 71 Z with a 4 speed imported from the US. Here's a few pictures I found on the facebook page.

Yeah.. sandblasting them was most of the work. Painting went pretty quick. Yes the ride is so much more enjoyable without those vibrations ! They are all under the car now with the Dunlop tires that I allready had bought and where on the old rims. No vibrations with these aswell ! Personally I think these look better on the 240Z with the fatter tires But now I have 2 sets so I can change them from time to time.. Here's some pictures, the car in the back is the Chevrolet Caprice from 73 from my brother.

Ah those are the AC lines ok ! I was confused on that. We don't use much AC here..

If it had been standing still for quite a while with fuel in the carbs, it could be overflowing, you could try cleaning the carbs.

OEM style radiator hoses would be enough, stail braided isn't really necessary.

Overheating could be a block of flow somewhere in the system, or the radiator isn't cooling enough, or there is air in the system.. I can see from above interior pictures the hoses used for the interior heater core are wrong and way to long. Check both the valve for leaking and the heater core. I've been there myself and have taken it out, without removing the dash. It's a few hours work. The picture jfa.series1 posted above is how it should be connected

Maybe it will take another 25 years at least, before they become hard to find. There's still to much of them around.

I was thinking parts car also, but because he '' claimed the dash was crack free '' I thought it might be interesting for somebody here.. because good dashes go for very high prices these days.

here's the link to the car Datsun Z Series 240Z | eBay I asked about the dash the owner says no cracks... maybe interesting for somebody here?

Made some time today and got 2 of the 4 14 inch iron cross wheels finished for balancing. The color is " steel wheel ".

I found the same problem when repairing my gauges. The lens was pushing against the needle. Glad you found it. I glued my lenses and then put it back together.