texasz

I have a PU that I shopped around for a spray in bed liner for. Rhino came out to be the best out there, it's sprayed on thicker for one which in the bed of a truck this matters. Any how, as far as what was said...these spray in bed liners do prevent rust...as long as they remain intact! Once a tear, rip, chunk or what ever has been taken out of it this exposes the underlying metal to the elements. Being that it is designed to be abused in the bed of a truck this stuff is all pretty tough, however it's not bullet proof and can be damaged. Just think of the under side of your car when you kick up rocks and other items at a highway speed...what if you hit a board in the road, etc. On the bright side this material can be patched easily! I have a spot on my tailgate where the bolt heads are that hold the handle on that has been scrapped off through normal usage and the Rhino place will fix it for me...no problem. Hope this helps a little.

Be careful with the plastic, it is old and they do break. Trust me. That plastic thing is threaded so you can also turn it so that it moves up then you are just left with pulling the metal rod out, this may give you a little more room to work with and also move the plastic part out of harms way. This is a tough job as there is not much room in there to work and it's hard to get your hands in there. Best of luck.

I sent the seller an email requesting more information and clarification. NO REPLY!! EVER.

Xargon321, check out this thread I have going...I'm in the same boat! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10034

And I see that nobody has bought one yet. Hey, does this require you to run Active Desktop? EDIT: I should have clarified my statement. Based upon the auction link above it appears as though only 1 has been sold thus far. Sorry about that.

kmack, great info! I will be doing that in the next day or two. About my other question...how much more effort would it be to swap the diff while I'm doing the u-joints? I'll be under the car, I'll have the shafts partly taken apart already...

Unfortunately like mentioned previously, it is not that clear cut. My car is a great example! It's production date is 8/70, VIN is HLS3008215, has all the charateristics of a Series I car yet is titled as a '71. *shrug* Go figure.

He must have said U-Joint and by the time I posted this I was just confused (he's very knowledgable about Z's, he has been working on them since the beginning and went to the first Z school that Datsun/Nissan held). The question I have before ordering them is since all he did was drive the car and not put it in the air how can I tell if this it the real problem? Can I just jack the car up, roll under there, look at them and be able to tell? What will I be looking for to tell if this is the problem? I just don't want to order the expensive u-joints from MSA and find out that this was not the problem after all. While I'm there how much more work is it to swap the diff? I have my new one sitting in the garage ready to go!

I saw a website months ago that had them listed for $9.99 but I can't seem to find it again. DAMN, I wish that I had bookmarked it when I saw it!!! :mad: :stupid:

Only reason I could see that someone may want to run a 5.88 in a Z would be for some of the hill-climb races that are around. Something like the July 4th climb to the clouds (I think it's called, and I think that's the date) that runs up Pike's Peak in Colorado Springs, CO. That's one big hill with a huge elevation change...I have read how hard it is to tune the cars for the race due to the change in elevation...the peak is over 14000 feet. To add to the difficulty the last 2/3 of the road are not paved as I recall.

I know that there are a few of you on here that live in and around Austin and I would like to know who you trust with your engine rebuild and machine shop needs? I am working on rebuilding an engine and will have to send some of the work out and want someout good.

Ok, I swung by the Z-Clinic this morning and the owner/mechanic told me that the awful noise coming from the passenger rear was a very bad c-joint. He wants $125 for the one side and stated that the part is about $50 from the dealership. I was looking in both VB and MSA catalogs and did not find them...did I misunderstand and he said U-Joints? Is there such a thing as a c-joint? So if it is the u-joint then they run $12.95/each from VB for the stock type and $17.95/each for the same at MSA. Now MSA also has a Spicer heavy duty u-joint they recommend for racing which costs $32.95/each. Does anyone know how much better these are? I will be autoxing my Z and would like to know if the extra money is worth it on these. Other questions are how hard of a job is this? Do I have to replace ALL the u-joints at the same time or not? If yes does this include the ones on the drive shaft or just the half shafts?

Generally putting in an '81-'83 280ZX Turbo engine will be what you are looking for but what you DON'T want is the P90a head! I think that these were only in the '83s so what this really means is that you will be looking for an '81-'82 280ZX Turbo engine, this will have the P90 head which is said to be the best flowing head and all three years have the F54 block wich is considered the best block by most. The difference is that the P90a went to hydrolic lifters and they are crap (from what everyone says...and I do mean everyone). After that there are other mods you can do but I do not know anything about these as I am focused on a carbed non-turbo car and have not investigated your choice.

Just so everyone knows, this guy has been selling these on ebay for the past couple weeks. I don't know how much longer he will be selling them though.

What does this software do or classic Z car owners?

For Z cars the names to know for parts are as follows: Victoria British (commonly know as VB) - www.victoriabritish.com Motorsport (commonly know as MSA) - www.zcarparts.com Zed Findings (great for floorboards among other things) - www.datsunzparts.com Midwest Z - www.midwestz.com Z Parts - www.zparts.com Z Therapy (THE place for rebuilt and performance carbs, etc) - www.ztherapy.com Z Barn - http://zbarn.com Among many, many others who's links are located in the 'LINKS' section of this site. The ones I have listed are probably the most popular from what I can remember at the moment (if anyone is missing please do not be offended I'm working from memory only). Welcome to the group and enjoy your Z!! This is the nicest most helpful Z site I have found yet!

I saw these a couple days ago and noticed that the seller said his reserve is $800 which he states as the retail price when they were available.

If the right signal is not working but the left is would this be a fuse, a bulb, or a wire problem? It does not blink on the dash. I remember seeing something that may have been s tiny bit of smoke from the left side of the steering column several weeks ago when I had used the turn signals. Maybe a wire has melted. If this is the case are the signal switched the same from '70 on up at least to '73? I have a '70 car that this is not working in and a '73 parts car I can pull the signal switch from. On this note are the light/wiper combo switches the same also?

Eric, I do not have any information for you but I do have a question. What does all the information you listed here mean??? Does it matter what time of day it is? JK Serioursly though, what does all the info you posted mean?

As I understand it you should be getting about 170 in all cyls. This is what I recall being told here a few months back. 100 is low.

A big "thank you" to 2many and Ben for helping identify the diff I asked about.

Does this appear to be an R180? It is said to have come out of a '78 Fairlady Z and be a 4.11 ratio.

Ok, so all I got to this weekend was the hatch window seal. Not difficult just a bit of time (about 2-3 hours for someone who has never done one before and was working slowly and carefully). The tips about using the silicone spray were great, that stuff is slick and made getting the seal to seat much easier. I do, however, still need to know how to attack the inner and outter hatch seal. I see where they go but how are they held in place? Is it just by using that black goopy stuff in the tube that came with them or what?

Anyone...please??? I want to do this over the weekend.

I believe that I will be passing on these Bambi, I was already leaning that way since he could not confirm anything about the brand or style. Yes, patience is what got me the car I have for the great price I paid. I will just keep looking and if I do not find the right pair by the time I have other things done and am ready to start autoxing then I will have to pay out for the new set. Thank you and everyone for helping out. I may (most likely) be asking more about sway bars along the way.