EuroDat

I have wondered about this sub harness option as well. Those same wires are in my harness too. I thought it might be for the AC, but my Californian car has AC and no optional cooling fan. Could it have been an option for the cars sold with the tow bar? Or maybe the developers thought the N47 heads would have heat problems in certain areas with lead free fuel and exhaust liners generating more heat? I am yet to see one or even a photo of one. A while back, I toyed with the idea of running a 280ZX fuel injector cooling fan from this circuit and using a delayed shutoff relay. I have the fan, but it's way down on my to do list.

I was wondering when the tractor would show itself. LOL. What! No snow chains on the three wheeler?

Before this thread gets nasty. The op posted photo's of a set of 280Z quarters. They are quarters for a 280Z or am I missing something. No recess or indentation for the 240Z bumpers. The 240Z quarter recess around the bumpers could be transplanted to these. The section around the bumpers is generally less rust prone, I beleive.

In the original post are two 280Z quarters. Which year 280Z? They changed about half way through the 280Z series. They might have been when they changed the bumpers. Not really fare comparing them with 240Z quarters. I don't know what 280Z quarters are worth, but they probably won't fetch as much as 240Z panels. Won't be far behind them in price either. Can you read anything on the white label on the last photo? Just because it's black, doesn't guarantee it's nos. Still look really neat. Goodluck with your sale.

First pass. Wow that stripper really does its job. Looking good.

Yeah, They often use that tar as a form of sound deadening and spray it everwhere.

Supercheap auto. Who ever thought of that name. Everytime I drive past one of their stores, augh. Give me Repco or Auto one for a name anyday. Btw. Nice build Jeff.

Btw, Your project is looking great, as usual.

Mark, Sorry, but that photo looks like your half done.;) Edit: Now I get it. You mean undercoat on top side. Me thinking ; coating on underside. Just woke-up, need coffee.....

I don't know if there is any truth to it, but I have read somewhere that it stabilises timing when the mechanical advance is just starting to move. I would have thought the springs would have the same effect, but maybe theory is different in the field.

It was a nice discount. Maybe the guys from MSA can gives us an update. @James@TheZStore to see what they have to say.

I would be very interested, but not for the shipping. It's oversized and heavy. All I'm looking for is a front section for my 71C I want to mod for my L28. I have a spare cross member already modified and an early 70 propellor shaft. Just need the bellhousing.

Yes, I have seen this before. Wasn't on this Zed I have now. The crack was between the pivot ball and the top vinger going to the thust bearing. It would flex and the peddle felt like the system had air in it. Bled and bled the system, even changed the master and slave cylinders before we found.

Thanks for all the info Chickenman. You see some upgrades and you read comments like "It was a pita", but they don't elaborate much further than that. Maybe because they want to move on or don't see the need to.

Wow, That is hard to tell apart without having them side by side. Such a shame you're stuck with all this R&D for an aftermarket upgrade. Did you measure the distance between the bolt centers? Would be a nice refference for others when they fall in this rabbit hole. Maybe even write a short technical article over these issues. If they sell calipers for this upgrade it would be nice if they drill out the bracket 0,80". Or they could offer it as an option. They make the adapter bracket to fit the caliper to the S30 axles and let you figure the rest out yourself. A simple instruction leaflet with info on these "issues" would be nice.

Im using the KIA sportage seal on the hatch and doors. I manage to get in in without cutting on the hatch. They need to be cut for the top back corner on the doors. They work fine and passed the garden hose test. I have never had my Zed in the rain. They were only $37.50 + $7,50 shipping to the netherlands for all three.

I can remember in Australia in the mid eighties, holden used the Nissan RB30E and the RB30ET with the 4 speed jatco automatic (Nissan code 4N71B). The were known for using oil through the modulator valve. You couls very wel have this problem. Easy to check it. Pull the steel tubing from the modulator valve and check if it has any oil. It should be dry. You could buy a sports kit for the automatic to make it a more performance transmision. The datsun guys use to use the kits too. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Commodore-VL-4N71B-4-Speed-Automatic-Transmission-Vacuum-Modulator-Non-Turbo/322484179317?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52946%26meid%3D4327a240619b4a2e9d10680aaba0be2f%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D222255979018%26itm%3D322484179317&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

Congrats Nils.

When I changed over to the HEI module I bridged the ballast resistor and fitted the HEI module into the old TIU case to keep it as original looking as possible.

@Patcon

Like Zed head said. If you go with the 260Z dissy and a HEI module, you should use a coil with less than 1 ohm. Then you can take advantage of the current limiting capabilities of the HEI module. You can make a bracket and mount it next to the (12v) coil where the ballast was mounted. Make sure the bracket has good contact with the HEI to help remove the heat.

The reason why the early 280ZX distributor is a popular upgrade is simplicity. It is a complete unit with the "matchbox" TIU built into the side. Less wiring. The 260Z and 280Z units use a bulky external TIU outside the distributor and preferably wired in the cabin out of the weather. Using a 4-pin HEI module would reduce the bulkiness, but it's still external. The 280zx dissy has a better more powerfull VR pick-up and runs a 12v coil, no resistor block. The 260Z and 280Z up to August 77 used a 7v coil and resistor.

Loks like someone did a adjustable coil over "upgrade" and a disc brake "upgrade". The disk brake upgrade looks like a maxima disc and cailper upgrade, but not sue because Ican't see the cailper. As for the strut modificatie. 20 year ago there were a lot of options out there for agjustabe coil overs. The one in your photo does not look firmiliar to me. If you remove the cartidge, you may find the original manufacturer and order acreplacement. Or it could be a situation wear they don't make the cartidge anymore. Maybe a parts store can match it with an alternative. Most of these adjustable coil over manufactures source their cartrides from a reputable manufacturer. Can you post a photo of the front strut? A photo of the rear caliper would be nice for curiosity.

Charles, If you get the chance, can upload that pdf to the technical download section? Nwdatsuns seems to be down and it might be lost to others. Great father and son project you are doing. Love it.