MikeW

Unfortunately, to use the retracting seatbelts out cars made after about January of 1972 you need to already have the pockets in the floor that the restractors fit into. These started appearing around Sept of 1971 even though cars made then still used non-retracting seat belts.

Here's another external source of information that may be helpful: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm

I would make absolutely sure that the engine is performing as expected. Have you driven other 240Z's or know anyone who has one? If the car is not tuned properly the performance will be awful and adding headers, etc. won't do much good.

I'm not sure if it's the fumes or the mist. I used a organic filter even while brushing but the instructions indicate that you really need to be careful when spraying: "Most people brush it on, but many spray also. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate respirators for solvents are essential for spraying."

MSA sells fenders and lists a single part number for 1970-1978.

Wow, that looks like more than a weekend worth of work to me. How did you do it? I spent much of yesterday cleaning out the garage so that I could get my daily driver back in behind the 240Z. I had been parking it outside for about the last 6 months. This morning I looked out the window and noticed a huge oak tree limb had fallen exactly where I had been parking. It would have crushed in the roof and/or broken the windshield. Thanks you tropical storm Frances.

The top of the aluminum bracket is about 3/4 of an inch above the tunnel. As I recall it was just a trial and error sort of fit where I kept using a hacksaw to remove pieces of the alluminum until it worked.

I just sent this via e-mail but it might be useful to others so I'll post it here. Years ago I created an aluminum bracket that I mounted the choke cable bracket to. It's attached to the transmission tunnel with a couple of sheet metal screws. This setup means that no pressure is applied to the plastic center console when the choke handle is moved. It also makes the console easier to remove. As always, keeping the choke cables properly lubricated goes a long way towards making the mechanism move easier.

Keep in mind that on most cars the light also comes on when there's an imbalance in the braking system between the front and rear brakes.

Ah, I read 1.5' as 1.5". Never mind. :stupid:

I used the kit and was happy with the results. The kit contains more than just POR15 paint; it also includes something they call "power mesh" which is basically a fiberglass mesh material as well as some epoxy putty. When the mesh is saturated with the POR15 paint it becomes quite strong. I wouldn't use this on a floor that is very porous but in my case there was actually plenty of metal and just a few small holes and cracks that were rusted through.

Google is your friend. Note that all 38 hits for the exact phrase "raw silicone oil" say basically the same thing. This either means that it's bad stuff or people are simply repeating the claims of others. I make no judgment call myself as I have no experience with these products. http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=mozclient&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&q=%22raw+silicone+oil%22

While I agree in principle there are other things to consider. For instance, if you have passengers, especially small children, it is your responsibility as a driver to help protect those passengers. In the event of an emergency situation you're more likely to keep the vehicle in control if you are securely fastened in the car. In the event of an accident you're more likely to be able to help extract and treat others if you yourself are not injured or unconscious. Since I have a small child I really hate to think of a child being properly and safely secured in a restraint seat and otherwise uninjured while the unsecured driver is ejected or knocked out and the car on fire or in water.

Exactly. I've actually seen motorcyclists stop at the border between states just to take of their helmet.

And here they are. I had to reduce them all to 1024x768 and rotate one of them a bit.

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/43847/article.html

I think it's kind of funny that the most recent feedback is from someone who said they'd been charged twice and still hadn't received the shipment. Why would you leave positive feedback like that?

Have a look at the most recent eBay feedback: http://feedback.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws1/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=midwest_z&item=-1&frompage=222 Strangely enough there has been plenty of positive feedback in the months since Chloe disappeared but I supposed it could be from people who waited a long time to provide it.

Feel free to e-mail them to me at my gmail account: mlwilliams@gmail.com I'll convert them to JPEG and post them here.

I always thought that white smoke was caused by coolant leaking into the combustion chamber whereas blue smoke is caused by oil.

Flat top pistons are the default for an L24.

Have a look at this engine calculator. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L6 If your 72 has the stock E88 head the calculator shows 8.76:1 The Factory service manual for my 1972 shows 8.8:1 and a PSI between 171 and 185.

This is how it works on my Nissan 240SX. However, since it also has pop up headlights it's not as useful for flashing someone who's swerving into your lane since there's a slight time lag for the headlights to come up.

Yes, I remember that discussion. Doesn't it seem strange that they'd just leave the choke symbol that's beneath what would have been the choke warning light?

If you just want to do away with the points you might consider using a Pertronix Ignitor. Search the forums here for "Pertronix" for plenty of information including detailed installation instructions with pictures.