MikeW

farrisl http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13929&highlight=kansas

Are you getting spark to the non-firing plugs? If so, what do the plugs look like? Are they fouled with oil or fuel?

You just pull the whole thing out. It's very easy as there are no fasteners. It just pops into place.

Looks like 79mm. Here's a nice engine calculator that should help you out: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L6

Changing the rod length would not change the displacement. All it would do would move the piston closer to or farther from the cylinder head but the piston travel is determined only by the crankshaft. Of course, you wouldn't want to move the pistons closer as they already come to the top of the block. Shortening the rods would indeed decrease compression.

I don't see how changing the rods alone could affect the length of the stroke.

Depends on what you mean by modification. Increasing the stroke requires a new crankshaft. This is what Nissan did to go from the L24 to the L26. You may have seen people talking about using the crankshaft from a diesel Maxima for this purpose. The only thing that will increase the bore is literally over-boring the cylinders and fitting larger pistons. This what what Nissan did to go from the L26 to the L28.

Mine took close to six weeks with one person basically working on it full time and another helping occasionally. The vast majority of the work is the preparation: repairing rust, getting everything straight, etc. Then there's a lot of priming and sanding and sealing. The actual paint job took less than a day.

It was definitely a GS30 RHD Japanese Domestic Market Fairlady Z 2+2 that originally came with an L20 engine which had unfortunately been replaced with a fuel injected L28.

Yes, it looked like that. I think it was adjustable but there was enough rust on this particular car that I didn't want to pull too hard on it.

Normally you just drill the proper sized hole and run the tap in. You use a cutting fluid which keeps things lubricated. There's usually some sort of handle to turn it with, however.

There was a guy at today's Georgia Z Car meeting with a (1976, I think) JDM Fairlady Z 2+2. The passenger side had a footrest bar that appeared to adjust not unlike what you might see on a bus. Was this a factory option? I've never heard of this.

Somehow I doubt that WalMart has made it to Australia ...

Search Froogle for "Revell 240Z": http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=revell%20240Z&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

I'm not the one selling them; I was just pointing it out because I thought it was kinda funny.

Ahh, I guess that's what I get for removing and re-installing the dash all by myself without taking any notes or pictures or properly labeling the screws and bolts. Looks like I'll be taking it back out. At least I'll be able to get to the air vent easily at that point. :dead:

Ok, I know. I was being sarcastic. :cheeky: They look like they were dug up somewhere.

Yours for only $150 ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908390312&category=33550

Are you sure your existing radiator can't be repaired at a local radiator shop? All that really matters is the top and bottom caps as the entire core and be replaced.

Actually, mine are difficult to open. I think the cable is binding. It's hard to pull and when it does open I notice that the baffle barely moves. Speaking of the vent knob, I notice that there's an extra threaded hole in the dash right above this knob. It looks like some sort of bracket should go there but I don't see anything listed on the parts CD for this location. Any idea what this hole is for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7907614788&category=43961 This looks exactly like the plastic <a href="http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=WCC">center caps</a> sold by MSA for $6.95 each and the set of <a href="http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=25-2055&Category_Code=WCC">emblems</a> for $5.95 for a total of $33.75. The bid is currently at $55.

The safest way to get to the gauges it by removing the heater control panel. It's a bit tricky, however, because of the cables that got to the control sliders. The other option is to go through the glove compartment. That's easier but you're likely to damage the cardboard glovebox trying to get it out. If that happens to you just let me know. The knob beneath the speedometer resets the trip odometer. The other knob is a rheostat (dimmer switch) for the instrument panel lights.

I'm glad I'm not the only one. Keep in mind that I did wedge in a piece of wood as specified in the FSM. However, it must have not been quite tight enough and therefore let the tensioner pop out just enough to make the chain too tight to get the sprocket back on the cam.

What's the story on the later hatch?

It may be different on your model but on mine the thick wires that connect to the headlight switch are red and white/red. One of them has a male connector and the other female so it's possible to simply unplug them from the switch and connect them together. If this turns on your headlights then your switch is bad. If not, as you say, the problem is elsewhere.