MikeW

The last pair purchased by a club member went for a considerable price. You might want to read this thread and encourage Will to get on with the plan despite that fact that he has a new baby: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14343&highlight=headlight

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=45493&postcount=34

Keep in mind that the steering wheel is not really wood but rather a plastic made to look like wood. This has been debated many times here in the past. As I recall, others have also discussed various restoration techniques so you may wish to search old posts to find what worked for other people.

Welcome to the club. Your profile indicates that you've got an early 240Z. Feel free to tell us all about and and upload some pictures to your gallery.

From the web page it appears as though the product only comes in 6 x 11.75 inch sheets. Do you know if they have rolls or longer lengths? Perhaps it's so thin that you could overlap two sections without really noticing it. Sounds interesting.

It's Carl Beck who runs the internet Z car club (www.zhome.com) and who posts here occasionally.

Agreed. Here's one I like much more. It looks even better in person; Kevin has put a lot of work into it while maintaining the original clean body lines. http://www.zcar.com/month/2003/12/

Is the car burning oil? If the plugs are fouled with oil then it's either coming past the rings or through the valve guides. A compression test can help you determine which is the source of the oil.

Yes, it's a dark blue almost clear plastic.

I also used metal tape but cut it into a 3/8" wide strip and put it on a piece of plexiglass in order to polish it with metal polish. I first used a board to support it but the wood grain appeared in the tape as I polished.

The picture appears to be the same Precision kit that many vendors sell. I got mine from MSA. I too had to really slam my door at first with new seals but over time it gets squeezed down and becomes easier and easier.

It's possible that one of the carb float bowl needles is stuck causing you to not get any fuel to half of your cylinders. Do all 6 plugs look the same?

As I recall the title on my car said 4 cylinders as well. I'd have to guess that it was back in an era when typical Americans looked down on Japanese cars and just assumed they were all under powered 4 cylinder econo boxes.

4cyl ?????

The VB catalog is where I often look for this stuff. Here's the way they list it: 240Z/260Z/280Z G H L S30 ##### Blank = Coupe G = 2+2 H = L24 for 240Z R = L26 for 260Z H = L28E for 280Z L = Left Hand Drive Blank = Right Hand Drive S30 = Car model ##### = serial number Chris - were the U, UV, UN, F, and A designations ever on the VIN plaque itself?

The yellow car pictured also has the original style tail lights unlike the white 1975 2+2. Somehow I think they've got the wrong picture.

No, the G signifies a 2+2.

Cavitation is normally associated with a phenomenon produced by a boat/ship propeller turning too fast but the situation with a water pump impeller would be the same. Because of low pressure on the trailing side the water can actually boil (even at low temperatures such as ocean water) thus creating bubbles. I would guess that boiling would be more likely in a car cooling system which is already close to boiling as it is. Not only does this reduce efficiency it can actually damage the impeller/propeller. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation

I finally got around to watching this show (I was on a cruise all last week) and was a bit surprised by the results. For those of you who haven't seen it the premise was to take a pair of stock 1971 240Z's, enhance the performance a bit, and drag race them. Both teams kept the stock L24 but chose to upgrade the cam. Other modifications included headers, an MSD unit, and, for some reason, a Holley 4bbl carb and matching intake. The surprise to me was the results. The faster car apparently managed the following in 1/4 mile: 0-60mph: 13.2 seconds top speed: 85mph total time: 17.8 seconds Is it just me or isn't that significantly worse than stock? Maybe they should have run the cars before making any modifications.

I live in Fulton County and I'm not too worried. Will, why would the Fulton County DA be sending you e-mail? I take it this was a personal e-mail from someone you know there?

I agree with Carl. You might try getting some fresh fuel in a can and run a fuel hose from the suction side of the fuel pump straight into the can. Keep in mind that this fuel will be returned to the car's gas tank unless you also run the return side to the can. If the car starts you can then work your way backwards.

http://www.snopes.com/legal/lawsuits.asp

We either need to get this back on topic or move it out of Funnybone. Here's something that's funny albeit a bit late: http://www.yonkis.com/mediaflash/bohemia.swf

I assume you're talking about the PDF I put together a while back. I'm glad you found it helpful but I'm sorry it didn't fix your problem. One thing I wish I had known during the years of driving with a flaky headlight switch is that you can bypass the switch completely in an emergency. The two heaviest wires coming to the combination switch (red and white as I recall) have bullet connectors and can simply be attached to one another. If the lights come on then you know it's the switch. If not, it's something else and hopefully all the work you did to repair the switch will still be useful once you track down the other problem.

Congratulations!!! Where are the pictures?