MikeW

I finally got around to watching this show (I was on a cruise all last week) and was a bit surprised by the results. For those of you who haven't seen it the premise was to take a pair of stock 1971 240Z's, enhance the performance a bit, and drag race them. Both teams kept the stock L24 but chose to upgrade the cam. Other modifications included headers, an MSD unit, and, for some reason, a Holley 4bbl carb and matching intake. The surprise to me was the results. The faster car apparently managed the following in 1/4 mile: 0-60mph: 13.2 seconds top speed: 85mph total time: 17.8 seconds Is it just me or isn't that significantly worse than stock? Maybe they should have run the cars before making any modifications.

I live in Fulton County and I'm not too worried. Will, why would the Fulton County DA be sending you e-mail? I take it this was a personal e-mail from someone you know there?

I agree with Carl. You might try getting some fresh fuel in a can and run a fuel hose from the suction side of the fuel pump straight into the can. Keep in mind that this fuel will be returned to the car's gas tank unless you also run the return side to the can. If the car starts you can then work your way backwards.

http://www.snopes.com/legal/lawsuits.asp

We either need to get this back on topic or move it out of Funnybone. Here's something that's funny albeit a bit late: http://www.yonkis.com/mediaflash/bohemia.swf

I assume you're talking about the PDF I put together a while back. I'm glad you found it helpful but I'm sorry it didn't fix your problem. One thing I wish I had known during the years of driving with a flaky headlight switch is that you can bypass the switch completely in an emergency. The two heaviest wires coming to the combination switch (red and white as I recall) have bullet connectors and can simply be attached to one another. If the lights come on then you know it's the switch. If not, it's something else and hopefully all the work you did to repair the switch will still be useful once you track down the other problem.

Congratulations!!! Where are the pictures?

I guess you can always schedule both (and with extra room on either side) just to be safe. I've got 3 separate TiVo units now, one for each TV, so I suppose I could program them all in the event of one of them failing. I won't bother getting a big UPS in the event of power failure; that's taking things too far.

Just remember the etymology of the word politics: poly means "many" and tics are blood-sucking parasites.

I suspect the only difference is that the non-OEM will tend to fail sooner. That being said, I wouldn't worry too much. Even if the brake booster fails suddenly you can still stop the car with extra pedal effort. I'd actually be more worried about the master cylinder or other braking components that could leave you doing some rapid downshifting while yanking up the parking brake.

Thanks Stephen. I'll be out of town that day so thank goodness for TiVo/DirecTV.

The Georgia Z club meeting is held at the Hooters in Norcorss the first Tuesday of every month. Funny thing is that most of the members seem to spend their time drooling over the cars ...

Ah, thanks for the information. I hadn't noticed X (PayPal) and Q (Qwest). I didn't find the other so maybe it's just 3.

Something strange that I've noticed but don't quite understand is related to domain names on the Internet. Obviously shorter names are more desirable. You would think that the ultimate would be something like http://www.a.com; alas, that name is not in use - it must not be allowed for some reason. The same holds true for almost every single letter of the alphabet. There is only one letter that is used all by itself as a domain name: http://www.z.com

I did my floorpans with a similar material and didn't quite use up the 25 sq ft that I purchased. I'm guessing that one 70 sq ft roll would come close to the coverage you're looking for and that 2 rolls would be more than enough.

Mine has always idled at 700-800 but the needle jumps around a little and I'm not sure how accurate it is. I keep meaning to go with a Pertronix Ignitor thinking that might provide more stability.

No, cutting metal out is really the only proper technique for rust like that. Fortunately there are inexpensive patch panels available: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/167.htm

When I had my car repainted recently I decided to replace the windshield at the same time. I ordered an after market (PPG) replacement locally for under $200 and took it to the paint shop. Since all of the glass was out already it seemed like a good thing to do. Unfortunately the new windshield cracked when trying to install it. When placed on top of the OEM windshield it was noticeably thinner and had a slightly different curvature which is why it cracked when trying to install it. I have since reverted to the original windshield which had deep scratches from a previous owner running the wipers with no blades. I've used the Eastwood kit to completely remove the scratches but it needs some more work as there's a bit of fog in places. Also, because the scratches were so deep there's now a bit of distortion. It took hours and hours of polishing and makes quite a mess. You also have to wear a proper mask as the rhodium power is very dangerous to breathe. At this point I may just have one of the mobile installers come out and replace it. As long as they don't break the original getting it out they can break all of the replacements they want as it would be their problem.

Ok, I'll take one. What forms of payment will you accept? PayPal is the easiest for me.

The original headlight circuit on our cars is inadequate for the higher wattage headlights available today. It's barely adequate for the stock lights. The problem is that the full current travels through the combination switch itself which makes the distance quite long for for gauge of wire used. The improvement is to use relays such that a low current flows through the switch itself which in turn operates the relays which get the full current straight from the battery and send it right to the headlights.

Sounds interesting. Have you written up installation instructions yet?

I noticed that as well but I somehow picture Chloe being older than the listed birthdate of Nov. 8. 1972.

Ok, how about this one? : http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=11399&sort=1&cat=all&page=2

As someone else suggested, why not look for a picture? I went to the galleries here and did a search for "fairlady". Here was one of the first hits: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=11557&sort=1&cat=all&page=2

Well actually the four cylinder was a copy of a Mercedes inline six with two cylinders removed so Nissan essentially added the two back on their own as you say ...