siteunseen

Pictures would help but a running Z for $1,500 sounds good to me. I paid 1,400 for my '77 five years ago. Pulled the motor and rebuilt it also a new fuel supply, tank pump injectors just about everything. Runs great now after another $2,000. Are you able to spend at least another thousand? If so, buy it. If it's popping it has a vacuum leak most likely. If it won't stay running it has a fuel delivery problem. All the help you can stand is right here. It's like playing online chess trying to figure out problems with most folks on here. BTW, I always lose to the same 3 people. You know who you are!!!

Aren't those the same as early ZX caps? Try zcarsource.com

Deanna's like my new dog, he'd help drag the gas jugs back to the thieves vehicle. 8^)

A motion light mounted to a wooden stob close to the Z, wired into an extension cord? Or my favorite,

What did you do Captain, pee in their drinking water? I'm glad you made it away from there before the poo poo hit the fans. http://www.cnn.com/2016/06/15/us/orlando-tragic-week/index.html

There's your car Woody.

At least your nuts are clean.

I'm reviving this thread, it's easy to understand and very useful to new SU owners. Thanks @Blue, I use this all the time (well not really, I've done them this way so many times now ) and recommend it to others as well.

This first one opens in a pdf type file, the next two are threads from classiczcars. Hope it they help. SU tuning.rtf

I'm with you on that. Music just doesn't sound as good when we get a little older. When I was younger and had squeaky brakes or belts I'd crank the stereo up to fix them Now I actually put new pads on or new belts but I used to spend a paycheck on sunglasses, get drunk and jump off the boat to take a leak. Sunglasses don't float. 8^(

When you get them even at idle turn that very top screw/ spring until you get 2500 or 3000. I do 2500 but Ztherapy dvd shows 3000. It supposed be your cruising speed. My timing light shows rpms but you can stick your head in the cab and look at the gauge. Once you have it at high rpms measure air flow on the front. Then turn the screw/ spring to the left of the rear carb until it matches the front carb. Thats how I do mine. If you search "quick and dirty su tuning" Blue has a good write up on the procedure. There's youtube videos also. @Jarvo2 has some good info too.

I think slot cars changed my life, womp womps and I even had a whisper jet. If I'd played video games like most of my friends I would have clean fingernails and make more money today. But I'd wear penny loafers and use hair gel.

When you do the high rpm sync do you use the screw/spring at the rear carb to match air flow. The one on the linkage flat?

I'm thinking lacquer thinner would eat it up. Thats basically what carb cleaner is but much cheaper. My Dad uses it soaking small engine carbs for people's mowers he works on that go to church with him. They leave the bowls full at the end of mowing season and it turns to varnish over the winter months. I've used lacquer thinner to clean all my internal engine parts. After a couple of days soaking they clean up like new with nothing but a toothbrush and 140 psi blast of air.

Sounds like you've covered all the basics. Maybe changing to a thicker 20 weight would help the dashpots transition like captain obvious says. I use 3 in 1 blue label from Lowes hardware, $3.99 IIRC.

If cas means cold start injector that would be my guess. Backfiring through the Tailpipe Is Usually A Rich Symptom. You could unplug it and see what it does.

I have a #110 color with white interior. Has some rust but overall a solid original '72. Search "Whats it worth" for a bunch of pictures. I'm about 4 hours from Gulf of Mexico port in Mobile Alabama.

Looks darker to me. Wick humble's book has a formula for the hubcaps but he doesn't say anything about the tail light finisher being the same, I DON'T THINK. I'll check later and let you know for sure. I'm still laying in bed. I had a busy day Saturday and it was close to 100 degrees.

Do you have the vacuum advance coming off the front carb? Is the connecting rod in between front and rear carbs set up right, I made that mistake and had a helluva time getting them synchronized until I realized my mistake.

I'm getting ready to sale similar 240. I believe mine may be a tad bit nicer though although it has some rust. Would you know what Bo paid for that one? You can send me a PM if you'd rather not post it on here. I'd appreciate it Steve. Cliff

Worked on a '96 Sentra all day. Great little car too, easy to work on, cheap parts. That's my dangling carrot for some young cutie that needs a car and i know a few to. It will be a "come by here and pay here, then get the hell out" instead of " buy here, pay here". The simple life.

Amazing the Chevy Volt doesn't have a spare tire. That's the beginning of the end for working on your own car. Like the Germans started with the engine cover. I'm laughing to myself, the Volt is a drivable jump starter.

Do they call it ported because it's on the left side of the throttle plate? Just kidding, its on the left if you're looking at it from the passengers side, I think??? It's gotta be behind it, right? If the butterfly is closed there won't be any airflow, I would think. I'm leaving now, I've worn out my welcome. But have beer cans for sighting in my squirrel sniper rifle tomorrow. They're a problem where I live. They chew up more than my puppy but I can't shoot him. 8^)

That's a good idea, thanks again!

Yes, it's ported. Intake vacuum drops when the rpms go up. Sorry, I assume the only reason to plug it would be the vacuum leak.