siteunseen

The fitment guide is pretty extensive.

What do the new plugs look like now, first three compared to the last three? A new rotor button and cap are cheap and will get that out of the way. The only large hose I can think of on the balance tube is the brake booster hose towards the rear and then the PCV fitting and hose in the middle. Good luck, hopefully it's something small.

I changed mine out on a '72, it was a "hard' pedal and the PRMs would rise when I depressed the brake pedal. Surprisingly tough for me and I'm glad I decided not to go with the bigger booster from the 280s, drilling new mounting holes through the firewall. I loosened the MC from the booster and tied it in place with some wire coming down from my ceiling, pulled the old on out and finagled the new one into place. Then the PITA part was getting those 4 nuts on the threads above the pedals. It was tough, for me anyway. $100 for a remanufactured one that I needed to paint black, it was raw metal when I received it. If you can get a new booster, the lines flushed of air with new fluid for $250 that's not too expensive after doing the job myself. I would gladly pay that if I need another one.

Use your core muscles for bending, Sensei.

I agree with Zed Head. That line inside the sprockets groove or anywhere close is a definite verify for TDC. It would save you from unneeded work. If you know you're going to rebuild the motor sooner or later go ahead and get the timing kit and use the sprocket for now. It looks to me your not far off. The motors are so easy to build and set up that whoever rebuilt it last most likely got it right and we are just missing something simple. I'll try to find my OE sprocket tomorrow and measure the grooves location, then hopefully you can get close lining up the line in the grooves location.

Or the local plumber's supply? That's where I find mine.

I was sweating profusely after walking, being pulled around by, my dog. Just joking around.

The cam should have JAPAN and E30 in raised lettering in between #8 and #9 lobes, I went downstairs and looked up close. I think those rough edges help keep the oil on the lobes???

Here's the original E88 head on my 2/'72 when I first bought it, I was having the same problems you are. The original sprockets have 4 oblong holes. And my cams have a rough edge too, they'll scratch your fingernail. Original cams are stamped "JAPAN" where the red circle is, mine's kinda dirty and hard to make out from the picture. Here is my thread on everything lining up for the timing, and some comments on moving the chain to fudge the timing.

Here's some direction for installing a clear filter out of the fuel tank. It will let you see if there is gunk in your tank and keep it from getting further up the fuel system. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Holy 5hit, 15 feet! Could you post up some pics of snow angels in the Boobies thread?

Did the leak stop? If you got that stopped I think you should put a new metal fuel filter in the engine bay then a clear plastic Fram G3 fuel filter in between the tank and the pump. That way you'll see crud before it gets too far. I can provide some links on this in the morning if you don't have them already. Simple stuff. I see you replaced the filter already but if you have a dirty tank it'll clog up quick.

That's exactly what I'm trying to describe. If the new valve I have doesn't shut the hot coolant out I'm going to use something like what you have. Thank you!

Thanks Cman! I used a long screwdriver probably to get the guide into it's tightest position. One day it'll loose up.

I just turned my a/c on, it's 76 inside after walking the dog. I'm doing an impersonation of Sweaty Betty.

It was 25 degrees a week ago. Today, 75.

Is that something close to Dizeased's famous P79/F54 motors? And I agree with you, that was an unbelievable blessing.

I remember using a pry to get the curved guide as tight as possible. I can see it in this picture. And what looks like a gap on the tensioner plunger is actually a black rubber washer, it was tight!

I'd like to see it Jai, thank you.

Thank you all for the replies. I had one helluva time setting it up, like Chickenman says it was a SOB to get the sprocket on. I had the valve cover off yesterday and tried squeezing the chain in a little but NO movement, tight as a guitar string still. I guess I haven't driven it enough to put wear grooves in the side guides? Steve my old #110 that I sold was an older build and it just seemed looser and had a better rev up through the gears. This one has a new to me/it 5 speed and aluminum flywheel so it go through gears fast, I'm not used to that. It feels like it needs more timing but I can't go any more with the plate's groove. I'll put some miles on it and think about what to do next. Thanks again guys. Cliff

Recently rebuilt 2.4 with a super tight timing chain, I started off new in #2 hole on cam sprocket. It seems like I might be losing some power with that setting and want to go with hole #1. Would that loosen the chain up a little? Relieve some of the strain? Thanks for any help/direction.

Loading my clothes and looked up to see this.

I can't remember right off, I'll look in my file and see if I can find the receipt. It's for a ZX, I know that. Seems like I had a hard time finding a timing kit for a 2.4 then someone said the racers use ZX kits so that's what I bought. Power Line I think. After fiddling with carbs floats for a couple of weeks I finally got them at 23mm. Tuned the nozzles and ended up at 3 1/2 turns down. My car finally runs like the other 240 I had, it pulls hard until the redline then I shift up. So damn happy!

Flat washer against aluminium parts, FYI, like Zed's photo. Here's another view.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08a02a