siteunseen

Sounds like the 240 fiberglass bumpers. They got out of whack and it wasn't corrected until many complaints. Molds get moldy apparently.

I think if it's inoperable, the mechanical pump, I would pull it off and put a block off plate on. Unless you have the Yorx A/C compressor in the way. That's a huge PITA to get it off, at least for me. I would adjust the carbs to run independently on there on by lifting the piston or pushing down that pin which disables the carb. It'll barely run on 1 carb but it will run. Like Blue says in his "quick and dirty" SU adjusting thread get them both to run by themselves equally as shitty. Google that, "Quick and dirty SU adjustment classiczcars.com" that's my SU bible.

I ground a notch on the tops of the bores on the block instead of over boring. Im on a budget. Exhaust and intake valves are the larger 2.8 size and I'd read from Carl Beck that they will slightly hit making a tapping noise that drove him crazy. FYI I also have an E31 with the bigger valves.

You may need to set the fuel level in the float chambers.

Does it still have the mechanical fuel pump on the head above #1 spark plug or block off plate? Mine run great with just the mechanical pump. If it were mine I would put a Fram G-2 coming out of the fuel tank. Is your vacuum advance hose connected to the back of the front carburetor, left side looking from the driver's fender. Are both sets of points in the distributor adjusted properly? Just throwing some things out that could cause your problem. Hard to say without knowing more. Pull the spark plugs and see if they are whiter or darker. Keep them in order, the first 3 run off the front carb and 4 through 6 the rear. Post a picture of them if they don't all look the same off white color.

Here's a couple of good reads for shorter valve seals. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68120-problem-with-viton-valve-seals/ I've read anything over .460 needs stiffer springs and the shorter valve seals. I put the Felpro SS72686 on my stock E88 as a practice run for myself. They're a little tricky getting them down without going too far. I used a deep well socket that rest on the metal part of the seals and drove them down with a rubber hammer. If you take your time there are easy, after the first one.

He speaks for me and everybody that owns EFI cars plus 95% of the forum. Just not you and "Her Majesty" the queen. His views are none of my business but all the money he has saved me and thousands of other people just by being a kind and helpful person with his Tech Tips is something I'm waiting on you to do. As long as I've been active here I cannot recall a single positive post from you.

All my Nissan parts come out of a distribution center in Texas, close to Courtesey Nissan. I would give them a call for sure. Good luck. My cars only tire changing tools?

Sold it.

Done! Those trailers are great too. The driver's side fender folds down so you can open the car door and not have climb out the hatch like I've done with other car trailers.

I'm using my '87 Hardbody with 350K miles on it. SIKE! I'VE borrowed a '14 Silverado 1500 work truck. Roll down windows with X-M radio? Nice truck and much bigger than the 1500s he bought when I worked for him 10 years ago. I'm prepared for this trip.

Yes, he rented it from here and I will load the car and meet him an hour or so down the road. Switch it over to his truck then he's back on the road to Baton Rouge for a one way, one day rental. I haven't even thought about checking the tire pressure on the pull vehicle. Thank you for mentioning that.

here's some Nissan part numbers that are still good and available. Oil pan gasket, 11121-E3001. $15 Rear main crank seal, 12279-2B500. $30 Rear main crank side seals, 12289-W0400. 2 at $2 each, $4. Turbo head bolts, short ones you need 9, 11056-P7600. $4 each Turbo head bolts, long ones you need 5, 11059-P7600. $5 each Those prices are in between list and what I have to pay, I get a discount. The turbo oil pump from Advance is cast iron which will add a couple of pounds over the original aluminium but after the discount it's only about $60. It's a Melling P/N 152. You'll read a lot about the turbo pump is P/N 111 but I emailed their tech department and was told the pumps are the same except the turbo automatic transmission pump has a higher bypass pressure so that makes it flow more before bypassing back into the pan. So the #152 is what he suggested that I buy. FYI only! I'm a shade tree mechanic with access to the world wide web, almost dangerous.

Wow! Thank you guys, y'all always pull me through when I'm doing something new. Confidence builders. S30 Jim it's the one I'm selling. The guy is driving over from Baton Rouge and needs to get back so he turn the trailer in and won't be charged for two days. I'm going to meet him south of Birmingham between there and Tuscaloosa.

I'm hauling a 240Z on the dual axle car transport trailer. Someone that's familiar with those might help me out with loading tips. Should I drive it on nose first or back it on? Is there anything I should take caution with besides the obvious? Car has no spoiler or front air dam. 195/70-14s stock wheels and tires. It's going to be a close fit I can tell already. Thanks for any advice. Cliff

I've bought a couple of parts from Advance over the years then I found out about buying online and using a promo code, driving down there and picking it up. Now with smartphones I can go there and get what I need, go sit in my car and order it with the promo code and pay 20% to 30% less. https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

That engine stainless steel bolt kit from Zcardepot.com was very nice for $99, I forgot about that. It has all your exhaust manifold studs with proper lock nuts included. Everything is separately packaged and labeled, very nice. He may have a bearing kit too, I like the way he does things by getting everything together for you and selling it all together as a kit. I would also buy some Aviation Gasket Sealer and a bottle of Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant from Advance Auto with the discount. If you have a store close by, use the "ship to store" option at checkout and pick it up there. No shipping charges. I wasn't too happy with the felpro rear main crank seal and those flat side seals and nails. The second motor i bought a Nissan seal and the side seals, way better in my opinion. I've got those part numbers in a file I can post later.

I bought my parts a little cheaper than what you have shown. If those are Nissan I can understand the difference. I bought all I could from Advance Auto online and used a 30% discount code. I also bought my cam kit from Schneider Cams for $427. I sent in a JAPAN marked cam and they sent me a cut cam (not mine) and the springs plus new retainers and lash pads. I called and talked with them beforehand and the guy told me I would have to buy new rockers or have mine resurfaced to be in compliance with their warranty. I've read dozens of people saying the same as Leon V says above but for another $50 I thought it was worth it. So $500 for a complete cam kit using my cam and rockers. It's their number 270-90F, MSA calls it a Stage III. The Felpro manifold gasket is shaped like a diamond on the exhaust ports to match square and round headers/manifolds. The Nissan matches the square ports on my MSA header perfect, it's the head that I had to grind. Most of the parts you're buying will have their own gaskets, timing cover, water pump and oil pump but it's nice to have the whole kit if you've never put one together. When I did #2 rebuild I bought a Felpro head gasket and that Nissan manifold gasket, used the ones that came with the parts and cut the rest out of gasket material I bought from a chain store. It was only the coolant inlet and outlet and the carburetors. It would be nice if you could find a newer head and rob the oiler cam and towers to put on the E88, plus the spray bar. You'd want a turbo high volume oil pump...blah blah blah. I could go on forever.

Send them to Delta Cams for a resurfacing, $50 and they'll mate up to your reground cam.

Something else you can do is pull the black cover off the AFM and make sure there's no spider webs or anything on the vane or wipe pad. Make sure it moves freely. If the cover is still stuck on with a clean look it probably has never been off so maybe do that when all else fails.

If you put new steel valve seats in that head and the larger valves, do some port grinding to match a Nissan head gasket and unshrouding the valves that head would be a good one. Get some flat tops out of a ZX motor and you'd have a good compression ratio. Those gaskets are still available from Nissan.

I would think the oily build up in the throttle body when cold wouldn't be sticky. As it heats up it would get sticky causing the blade not to completely seal off, high idle like a vacuum leak. Carb cleaner and an old toothbrush works good, be super careful removing that accordian boot it'll crack. I'd probably start at the AFM and take stuff off until you get to the throttle body, those hoses are expensive. There's a lot of stuff out there on high idle or hanging high idle. The BCDD, dashpot, throttle position switch adjustments are in that EFI manual Greg linked.

Squirt some water through the holes on top of the block and see which hole feeds the broken tube. I imagine it's a coolant line but I would find out for sure if it were mine. Once you get the hole figured out there's a colored diagram out there that shows water and oil circuits. Tomorrow Monroe's How to Rebuild L Series engine is all you need and of course this forum. I've rebuilt two with these guys and that book, great combo.

My cob is half uneaten. There's acres and acres of corn in my county but they call it "silage".

I waited out the nut jobs on craigslist and sold the 240 to a real nice guy from Baton Rouge, LA. He calls them "tou fartee's", I could listen to him talk all day. Posted one month ago tomorrow for $6,500 and sold it for $6,000. I had between 50 and 60 people ask about it, got in a couple of cuss fights through craigslist reply function, thank god I didn't put my phone number out there. There's some nut-jobs in this world. Anyway, the Camry will get a good wheeling and it's spot back in the garage.