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Thank you guys! It's the original master cylinder so rebuild or replace is in my future. It's not bad yet and I check the level before driving but it's curling the paint up underneath. I'll shove a rag under there for now. Thanks again, you all are the best. Cliff Zup, a few people won't like this but I'm here until the end.

I'm wanting something that pulls and is torquey too. A 2.8 block, 2.4 rods and which crank? Do you use the 2.8 or the 2.4? I have these parts and am ready to start a new project after doing the research. This will be my first step/question to find out if I have the parts required. Thank you for any help on this and another big ole thanks for the big ole boobies! They make my day (and sometimes night).

Rubber Rules! Good deal I think, best of luck.

I have fluid slowly seeping from where the master fluid reservoirs bolt up to the booster. I replaced the smaller booster a year or so ago and don't remember. Maybe it was sealant type gasket, silicone or something similar. It sat for a couple of months then I finally drove it only to find a huge oily spot on the floor. The front's bigger reservoir was empty but not the smaller one for the rear's. I put a mirror under there and it's wet coming down from the crack between the masters and the booster. Seems like something should be there? Thanks for any ideas/helpful comments. Cliff

Diseazed recognized it without the landscape edging spoiler!

Sounds like some doctors I use!

Pull these hoses off and stick a bolt inside them and retighten the clamp for a temporary test. Drive the car and see if it helps, won't cost you a dime and you should be able to do it in ten minutes. Then take the metal fuel rail off and replace with rubber fuel line like Jeff G said a month or two ago. This is your motor so there shouldn't be any confusion. Front hose coming off thermostat housing, Rear hose coming off the hardline that runs behind the head,

I plugged mine to keep bugs out and it looks a little better than an open hole. But the Vapor Lock man can make that decision, it would be easier especially for testing. Yes! Just plug the thermostat housing and the hose coming off the hardline at the rear for a quick test. If it helps with your problem then go back and make it look good. Like I showed in post #202,

I think you should go ahead and plug that off but a better way to test it would be hold that tube on first start up of the day. If it gets hot quickly then you have coolant running through there for sure. But if you drive it for awhile and it feels hot that would be the exhaust manifold heating it up. I drove mine an hour or so Saturday and grabbed that tube and it was hot as hell. It's right above my header. I'll show you a quick and easy way of testing it tomorrow, I'm using my phone now and away from my laptop.

For Sale Tree house with secure parking.

For Sale Tree house with secure parking.

Here's his older one. I guess it was before the duals?

Is that not the coolest video?!? Probably easier to know what mods he DOES'NT have. This is older so there's no telling now but from his signature section at the bottom of his post. Steve71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,E-88,big valves,ported&polished, Isky 490/290,header, triple Mikuni's 40's3.90 Subaru STI LSD

I've seen trees growing through old tires but never anything like this. It's amazing, thanks for posting that. It would be considered a "green car" to a tree hugger.

Angry Bastard is my favorite. I used to think arrogant meant you had smelly armpits.

Is that two separate kits or all that comes in one? I've got some 40s that haven't been run in 20 years I was thinking of rebuilding and running sometime soon. Thanks

That must be the "simplicity" of the turbo powered 240.

Our speedo housing is the same height as the fill hole so you won't loose any oil. If it's traveled all the way to the body you do need a new top hat. I read where one guy said his was so bad it dripped on his bare foot from under the dash. Said he thought it was a bee sting. I put teflon tape on my speedo housing's threads just as an extra precaution.

I made a mistake! The plastic pipe was NOT what I found to work the best. It was a 12mm socket. That was bothering me.

No, no the top hat washer just pushes down on the cable then when you tighten the cable housing? to the speedo pinion drive on the trans. it'll tighten up there. I was talking about the oil seal you get from Nissan that needs to be driven down into the pinion gear housing. From what I read that top hat washer just keeps any oil from running down into the cable, almost like it needn't be very nice just that it has to be there. Unless yours is torn or distorted to bad, you could reuse the old one.

If it's not about half an inch thick where you bolt it to the head you'll have to figure out how to make up the difference. MSA has it down pat. A good ceramic coated header is under $300 plus free shipping. They have cheaper unpainted ones also. My opinion only, do what you want but I have them on both my Zs and couldn't be happier.

Mine have turned into garage cars to. I've figured out I enjoy working on mine more than driving them. I like cold beer so I have low mileage cars, not DUIs.

Can't tell you a brand but it looks like the flange isn't too thick for our cars. It needs to be the same thickness as the intake manifold so the yokes and bolts fit the same. Thinner flange would be more likely to warp or leak from all I've read.

I took the old "top hat" to Lowe's Hillman drawer section and found one very close but had to sand the sides of the rubber washer to size. Use a deep well socket to drive the oil seal down in the speedo pinion gear housing. The housing will come out of the trans after removing that one small bolt and half-key that hold it in.

Yes, get it as high off the ground as you can. I put ramps under the rear tires with the lowest end pointing to the back. You'll have to use a jack to get them under the rear tires. I learned the hard way. Transmission loose but couldn't get it out from the sides. +1 on an adjustable jack for the motor. I even tied mine through the hoods receiving latch while the work was done on the trans.