siteunseen

Mine has a Metric 600T spare, I don't know if that's the brand name or just the size?

I was thinking if he had the cam sprocket groove and the line on the cam lock down plate lined up, the damper might line up with the 0 mark. It's not very far judging by his pictures.

Ooops! It's 1/4", sorry.

I couldn't ever get that to work by myself, didn't try too long after I realized I needed another pair of hands. With someone checking the .55" measure for you it will be easier. I was trying to do everything looking at the mirror's reversed image. 1/8th clear hose will work on the very bottom nipple of the float chamber. Hardware or aquarium supply store should have this. 2 feet is enough for both carbs. Good luck.

Nice looking car! Looks almost identical to mine so I'll be watching this for some ideas/tips. I sure was happy to get rid of my Yorx a/c compressor and that pulley bracket, it was inop anyway and a huge pain in the butt.

That's the same as my early '72, pointer and pulley. I think it would be worth the time figuring out if your timing chain sprocket lines up with the TDC markings. I've got that stuff outside in a storage building and if I took each piece and took a picture of them separate then you would be able to figure it out. I'll try and get that together for you asap but it's COLD!!! down here. A quick way to look and see if it's close is look at the front of the pulley at TDC. The notch on the crank's nose where the "key lock"? slides in should be pointed straight up. I found a thrust plate in my guest/junk room. If you'll look through the hole on the cam sprocket, to the left you'll see a notch on the backside of the sprocket and in that notch you should see a small line to the left of the bolt on the thrust plate. The whole reason I'm saying this is because it may be as easy as moving the cam sprocket to the next hole. They have #1, #2 and #3 for adjusting out the chain stretch.

2 inch is what I have, it's a good tight fit. two and a quarter inch would be perfect and would go all the way down and sit flat over the opening. That one over the shift coupler is an inch and a half I believe.

Thank you! Here's the ones I need, latch area of hatch door. https://zcardepot.com/weatherstripping/gaskets-grommets/hatch-rubber-plug-grommet-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html

fantastic! Thank you again. checked 240rubberparts.com and found nothing for the hatch. I need to measure, probably be wise.

Thank you for that info. I have a piece of Gorilla tape over the passenger's side in my 240, luckily the carpet hides it but I'd like another plug and haven't been able to find one yet. Any ideas for the two on the hatch bottom? Thanks!

I think of that every time I type Blue, my favorite is when they tie the block to his "soft porn" body part for impregnating females with a longer rope and chunk it off the roof. FYI, he outed himself about a week ago. I believe he's trying to beat my high "reputation score" & doing a damn fine run up.

I'll leave it be, mine ran hot. Sorry to contradict what you've said Bruce.

Do you have a thermostat in your race car @Jeff G 78? I understand the eddy loop you speak of CO. I have a river thankfully running through here. The slews are stagnet but the main channel is clean.

From the link in post four. Counter intuitive is an attorney wearing a pony tail. No matter how good they are the judge still looks down on them.

I think I will try the 5s and now maybe I understand the reason they changed, thank you Blue. " However, with today’s cleaner-burning oxygenated unleaded gas, an equivalent engine needs to run plugs about 1-2 heat ranges hotter than originally specified (many plug manufacturers have revised their catalogs accordingly).

I've always put the BP6ES plugs in my cars. I did the ZX distributor swap on my 240, '79 ZX dizzy and coil and just widened the gap. Now I'm bored and go to NGK's website to see what's recommended for the '79 ZX. They say BPR5ES so I went to a couple of parts stores online and they say the same thing and have them on the shelves, the 6s have to be "shipped to home, non stocking item" Please advise!!! Seriously, anybody have any advice/experience for this?

I'll just pull the head gasket off and let it mix.

If you take the ones in the floorboards out you'll see the ground on a 240, I've not taken the ones out of my 280. You can pop them out from the underside and putting them back is easy, if they're not too dry and brittle.

The rubber goes in between the base mount and the AFM to lessen the vibrations. The ground goes under the base mount, if I remember right, it's been a few years.

I guess my temp gauge was reading hot because of the friction created by the coolant flowing over the temp sensor in the housing so fast?

Removing the thermostat's restriction is like running the a/c with the windows down. The thermostat slows the coolant down and allows it to cool the motor. If it was to pass through too fast it won't cool. I made that mistake on my first Z in 1986. FYI

And get rid of that shiny aluminum radiator.

This the first one I glued sometime this past summer. Off and on at least four times. Just don't over tighten the screws. I understand you have bigger problems I'm just bored. Here's some pictures of what ZH is talking about. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

While you have the floats detached from the lids put a small amount of black RTV or whatever fuel resistant adhesive around the bottom of the lids and glue the cork gaskets to the lids. The thin layer dries fast so do one at a time. Without the floats you can get the lids on quicker. Put the screws in and slightly tighten them down leaving the lid on overnight. You won't have to worry with those gaskets for a long time. How many turns out are the nozzles? If you have the floats close then 2.5 counter clockwise should be good while you figure out the timing. If your float tangs were that high I'd bet you had to run the nozzles way down, like 4 or 5 turns? That would blacken those plugs now that the float level is close. Hit them with a wire brush or wheel and see if they're still good. good luck