siteunseen

Have you looked under the intake manifold at the EGR or BPT tube connect? Mine had rotted a big hole, golf ball size, into the aluminum intake. The recall vin#s are 350001 through 410516. Mine wasn't fixed and ran that way until it was parked by the PO. I wound up with the car and it's problem, put a new intake on there and got rid of the emissions stuff. If the recall work was done they were to put a sticker under the hood next to the emission information sticker. My '77 was what I've heard called a "transition year" car, the EGR and all that crap was added as well as more problems. Good luck!

If you haven't spent a small fortune already you might consider swapping over to carbs. Seems like quite a few have done it recently and are happy with their cars again. If I had to do my tail chasing over, my '77 would be a bigger 240. 8^)

That'll change if you ever do any house wiring.

Captain Obvious! Colonel Obvious! Major Burns! Henry! Hot Lips!

That's all I did, google 240z valve size and those part numbers. Results showed maxima and 810. What would we do without google?

Have you read this? http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

I wonder if this is the arse end of the car in your post? I believe it is and I tried to match it with mine, minus the $175,000. Best pic of mine I could find on my laptop.

240 valves, best I could find quickly. Click on the pdf. below. http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/chassis/enis73/V2I735122.pdf

Guide wires. I read an interview with Dale Earnhardt Jr. where the reporter wrote when he was young and wasn't close to his Dad they could be barely afford to pay their "fire bill". He said power bill.

Definitely break in additive for reground parts, cam and rockers. Lucas makes some that's available at chain parts stores. You should have some paste for the lobes and rocker pads, molly something or another. Those two things came with my reground Schneider.

If you have two together you can climb up pretty far, or I use to could. Anyway I showed my next door neighbor's kid how to and the next day she had climbed up about 10 or 15 feet. Needless to say her parents were not happy but the little girl loved it. Said she was walking on a tightrope.

This is my local newspaper.

Here's a TECHNICAL ARTICLE that I found. Looks pretty thorough too. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/20038-fuel-injection-to-su-carb-swap/ If you have the n-47 head that came on the '78, the fuel pump sounds like the hardest part.

EDIT: I don't know which you need. '77 & '78s have round exhaust ports but ive always read the square port for carbeurators will work for the round ones. The EFI gasket has notches up top for the injector tips. There's a couple of guys that have done the switch recently that would help you out. Try searching for a thread "SUs on 280" I think.

Tom Monroe's book is a gold mine of information.

I used a high zinc but inexpensive Quaker State Defy 10-30 for the first 2 changes now it's on VR-1 10-30. Walmart has their version of the QS Defy but the real deal was just a couple of extra bucks. I kept mine under 2,500 rpm but did a lot of downhill engine breaks to suck the rings to the walls for the first 200 miles. Changed oil and filter, cut the filter open and drain the oil through paper towels looking for metal shavings. Everything looked good so I ran it up and down, 4,000rpm max. After 1,000 miles, drove it like I borrowed it from an ex-wife.

Sorry, I am talking about after the fuel pump for the "high pressure (high dollar) hose". Coming out of the tank is 3/8". If you are going to drain the tank this is a "must read". http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm In this pic you can see a lot: Metal sheet that protects the gas lines from road debris Fuel hose to motor via Fram filter Disolved hose particles in Fram G3 filter 10mm or 3/8" fuel hose Fuel return line Vent Hose to carbon canister and backflow valve passenger side fuel tank strap with 14mm nut

It's a Romanelli GT " Vehicle display floor, Montreal International Auto Salon at Place Bonaventure, January 1970, the show featured more than 300 cars including such Canadian-built rarities as the Romanelli GT, a V12-powered sports car built by Montreal native, Francesco Romanelli " http://www.romoto.com/gt.html

It pulled me through working by myself. Good confidence booster to SEE what can be done.

Autozone should have the hose and clamps, if you're talking about the fuel injection hose, Advance has them. 5/16" High Pressure Fuel Injection Hose and packs of high pressure hose clamps.

I didn't have a B enough FH and limited swinging space as my dent was closer to the firewall so I used an old bowling ball, worked pretty good too.

That looks really good. Your initial start-up will make some smoke from the new paint, it scared me pretty good when I first fired mine, so be ready for that.

I set mine even all the way around but can't remember the size of the gap. Here's what I read, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

What about a new cap and button? I sold a D21 pickup for cheap. And all it was was the wore out cap was jumping fire. $10 cost me a fine running truck, damn it, still hurts.

Are you wanting a daily type for theft prevention? Or for fire prevention in case of racing crash? My 240 has a OE mechanical fuel pump so it's not possible with that. When I leave mine overnight somewhere unfamiliar I pull the coil wire off or the small wire on the starter. I'm sure there's more ways someone could recommend. Good luck with your project and will be reading the replies. I'd like something that could be activated from the cabin.