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Is it for the 260 in your cars owned or is it a ZX as the TECH FORUM category you chose? Here's wiring for a 260. There's a lot of info in the RESOURCES category up top of the home page

What spare tire did you put in OG? I need one for my '72.

The RPMs should decease when lifting that piston, almost dying out. Lifting the piston disables that carb then you are running on the 3 cylinders the other carb feeds. That's what mine does anyhow. Try reaching in and lift the piston itself instead of pushing those pins down. Your needle height may be off from the rebuild with the needle height set screw? Remember raising and lowering is viewed from the bottom of the car. Turn the nuts towards the fender to lower the needles. Read the section on SETTING MIXTURE.

Are you turning the carbs upside down to adjust the floats? That is on the SU video from ztherapy but it doesn't work with the valves you buy nowadays. They were using Grose valves in that video. Those are built different and would not hold the weight of the floats while setting the gap between the float and the lid of the float chamber. The newer needle valves will not hold the floats up. I fought with this for a long time then made my own "float chamber" out of a clear glass jar and set them that way. That's been about 10 years ago and I haven't had to touch them since. They run great. I got rid of the lid with long ears and use two short ear lids essentially turning them from 3 screw carbs '71-'72 to early four screw carbs '70-'71.

I had a knee replacement last November and didn't touch either one of mine until a week ago. I had to tap my carbs with a hammer to unstick the floats after hooking it up to a gas jug with new 93 octane and let it run straight from the jug to the fuel pump. It spit and sputtered, smelt like she-it but only for a few minutes. I followed Phillips recommendations on removing the tank, so read over the first of his "tips and tricks" to drain that fuel out. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

The color more than anything but it does give you another leg to stand on.

I just this morning realized my '72 has all Nissan glass except the front, PPG. That means it's not 100% but a busted windshield on a 53 year old car isn't a deal breaker. It does have the blue-ish tint sun visor.

VR1 10W30 $26.97 5 qt. jug, new filter $8 at Walmart. Cleaned and gapped ngk plugs $0. Adjusted valve lash $0. Idles smooth as glass. Took maybe 2 hours. Satisfaction for myself, PRICELESS! Beer:30 now.

This is for you, not your car.🙂 Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners. I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38". Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!

How long since a new fuel filter up front on the passenger's side? Sounds awful familiar of a clogged up tank. You can run a hose before the pump to a gas can to bypass the tank as an easy test

Well you don't know me as a music snob, just a greasy guy from Alabama, but you need to listen to that album. I'm going out on limb without google.com but that's the last one? P.s When I was young you could flip the needle over for a new one.

This is probably my favorite Steely Dan from the only CD I have of theirs. They were a tight playing group on that disc.

Never mind! Coffee kicked in. 3 outer and only 2 inner shims. I read back through that and this doesn't make sense. Diseazed do you know how many valve spring washers Eiji uses? I don't know him like you do and kinda scared to call and ask a bunch of questions until I am actually ready to do mine. I know he's a busy man. Because .080" longer valves are now in the head the springs must be shimmed up to from the bottom to retain the same spring tension. The washers are hardened steel and are there to prevent galling of the aluminum head...don't get them from the hardware store. The stock head came with only one shim under each per spring is exactly .040" in thickness. So just add 2 more under each outer spring (total fo three) and you can achieve the desired increase of .080". Washers used to be available at MSA and were inexpensive. The single stock washer under the inner spring is also .040" thick. But you can only add a total of 2 washers under the valve seal instead of 3, as it won't let the valve seal lock-ring seat properly. The inner spring is more of a "helper" spring and won't be adversely affected, I've had no problems using only 2 washers here and I rev my engine to 7,300.

Have you read datsungarage p79 modification? You shave 80 off, shim cam towers 80 higher and use the valves from the N head. https://datsunzgarage.us/p79/