Patcon

If it were me I would go fiberglass for the whole repair. I think you're right to use some resin to wet down the board first. I would use resin to make the initial repair to the crack and hold it close with screws or some weight over wax paper as a release sheet. Then back up the repair with some light weight matt. I think HR's recommendation for using the door as a jig is a great idea too. Once the initial repairs are done you can remove it and back it up from the back side if necessary. I get a magazine from Epoxy works and they do all kinds of projects with fiberglass and resin. It should do fine for all the repairs you need to make. At the holes I would thin down the board around the holes for the repair. That makes room for the repair material without too much overbuild. Whenever you patch holes in fiberglass you all ways try to make transition areas for the repair, same principle..

You did good! It's hard to do much better than that in a homemade booth. Because you just can't get it clean enough after doing body work. I am sure it will clean up and be perfect after some light polishing

So the stainless would be a really good choice, correct size and no corrosion...

Very nice. Always nice to make progress

Glad you made some progress on the car. Hopefully it will start to get sorted out...

Has anyone "miked" the original cables to see what diameter we are shooting for?

That's tempting...I like beating on metal Mark's idea sounds like a good one too

I would love to come see your shop but it's a little far...

Sorry if I didn't make a complete enough description. I really need to make a thread with pictures to show this technique. Maybe in my spare time on the next floor board project..

Shape the floor pan. It's easy to do. Make a series of cuts in to the floor pan about every 2", closer where a tight radius is needed. Take a heel dolly and round the floor pan to it turn up where needed. Zip screw it in place. Take a body saw or cut off tool and cut the tunnel and floor pan in one pass. Tack it in place and form some more with a heel dolly. weld it all up...

Good! They got there. I hope they work great for you... make small welds and let them cool completely or they will warp

Worn out paint strips easier but I haven't come across anything it won't strip yet...

Aircraft stripper recommends paint thinner for neutralization. It is very aggressive still. We stripped Cody's 510 hood with it and you could watch the paint release. I cant find the pictures I took. The paint bubbles and releases as you watch it. 3 layers of paint off half the hood in about 10 minutes, done...

The seats did seem low. Google says Jay Leno is 5-11. I didn't think he was that tall, maybe so. If he is pushing 6 foot and is that low in the car the seats are really low... It did appear that they didn't know some of the history of the car

The way I would define loops, is open loop runs on a program based on throttle position and sensor feedback. Closed loop runs on a program but uses an o2 sensor to modulate fuel. When my suburban is warming up it runs on open loop and surges some. When the truck heats up and switches to closed loop the surging goes away. Zed is probably right, fuel pressure would be a good place to start. If it bounces around the car will surge because the ECU is trying to prevent stalling then it catches, back and forth...If it was mine I would plumb in a fuel gauge in a permanent location. On the fuel rail or somewhere under the hood...

The car sounds great. I am not sure I would have given up the 100hp to go NA. I like the body kit for a restomod too...

I assume by "Mapped" you mean you are running a MAP sensor? Do you have an Idle Air Control valve? Closed loop or open loop?

I have a plastic paint booth sort of like you have with a fan and filter set up so bugs aren't normally a problem. I don't want to paint the car in pieces because I have been told the shading may not be right if I don't lay down the same amount of paint on all the panels. Since I don't paint a lot I have a better shot at painting the car assembled so the variations from panel to panel are minimized. So the car will be 90% complete when I spray the outside...

Aircraft stripper neutralizes easily with paint thinner. Sort of "pills" up as little rubber bits. I haven't every had an issue with bleed through later from it but I also don't goop it all down in the seams either

Oh, I know but your skin just tells you hot. Good ventilation is a prerequisite. I was 19 at the time, live and learn... Amazing I have lived this long...

FWIW, Don't get it on you! It gets HOT quick... splattered it across my face one time with a power drill and wire brush...

I did it the latter way. Sound deadened the interior and underside after priming, then "jambed" the car out on the rack (interior, ceiling, under the car, cowl area, door jambs, door interiors, hatch interior areas and engine bay). I am still working on finish painting the suspension. Then run all the lines under the car add suspension then put it on the wheels. Do most of the assembly then finish paint. That means less chance to mess up the fresh paint, hopefully...

Wow. I hate it when I do something like that...

The aircraft stripper eats everything. Did you try it on the bondo? It will turn it to goo. Scrape it off with a putty knife or a wire bursh on a drill. I stripped a whole Z with it. That car had gallons of bondo on it...

I painted mine on the rotisserie. Roll it to any angle you need and lean in. I also climbed in from underneath to shoot some hard to reach areas. It is difficult to get paint in many of the areas and avoid runs