Patcon

Come on! Bring Wendy and spend the night. We will have the guest house ready for you

That sounds like a good start.. Good to see you making progress again!

Doesn't have a VIN number listed. Could be a good start...

Ok I messed with this some more. I went through and redid the battery cables and the chassis ground at the voltage regulator. Some one had a red cable for the ground with some black electrical tape and a black cable for positive with some red electrical tape. So we remade all of those and cleaned all the connections at the starter. New connectors at the battery. Had the cover off the headlight relay and tried the headlights. No joy...They don't appear to burn at all. The high low switch seems to work because the relay moves and we can make it toggle with the high beam controls at steering wheel. We have other electrical issues too : Not charging No brake lights No wipers No reverse lights Half a dozen loose connections

The plating tank, where the zinc coating is applied, is the only tank that uses current. The chromate tanks are just a dipping solution but I believe they have an acid base to make the process work...

@motorman7 I went back 24 hrs. later and 7 days later and both times I can still scratch the yellow chromate off with my finger nail. Rich, How fragile is you completed finish? I am thinking I need to yellow chromate immediately after blue. Do you have any issues with contaminating your yellow chromate with the blue chromate?

I love JDM tail lights. They should have all been that way!

Love it! You can never have too many parts! Well maybe, but I'm not there yet...

If you put some cheap harbor freight casters on them, it makes it easy to move them around if you need to or to clean around them

Like the blue metallic and the flame orange...

Me too!

Pictures would help: Along the rockers, under the battery, the frame in the front wheel wells, down low behind the doors. Start with that...

I have sort of stayed out of this, but anyway. I don't think the question is "silly". If I owned #26 I would do all I could before I gave up and watched her burn on the side of the road (I am not trying to be insulting, I just don't like the idea of not trying), but that is sort of my personality. I have had fires in cars that were easily fought with a small fire extinguisher. I think a lot depends on what caused the fire,and what is feeding the fire. Is there an electric fuel pump, is it still running? Like SteveJ I have seen electrical fires that would be easy to deal with, versus a race car with a fuel or oil fire that pumps a lot of combustibles. Just my opinion but if the welding gloves help and they're not in the way take'em, if not, don't. We routinely use them in our fireplace and pick up glowing pieces of wood to adjust the fire. Easy on , easy off, still faster than waiting on first responders...

That looks good!

https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bpo/5690873085.html

Good catch...

you can buy them at lowes or home depot...or order online

If it was purpose built for a turbo the compression may be too low for a good NA setup. That would be there first thing to check. Also I would pull the head and check the crowns of the pistons and the condition of the head. If it was under fueled and had a lot of detonation, the engine may need a total rebuild...

A good pair of welders gloves would work for that. Opening the hood might make the fire worse but I don't know how you would extinguish it without being able to target the source...

Or we could see if @nix240z would fabricate some?

You have been moving the harness around. This is not a ground issue or lack of ground somewhere. If you have a small nick in a wire somewhere the movement of unplugging and replugging can give the short better contact causing the short to be faster and more pronounced. Actually the more significant short should be easier to find...

That was a bargain at todays prices! Even if it's rusty...listing is already down.

Thanks Chris, I am really close to having results as good as the shipment I already had professionally plated. If it doesn't improve from here I will still be happy... For posterity there are little things that can trip you up: The metal needs to be degreased before bead blasting or wire wheel work or you just spread the grease around The shinier the piece is before plating the better it will look when plated If the metal is pitted it's going to be pitted after plating There are ways around this but I haven't gotten to that level yet You need to calculate your areas accurately and use a timer to get consistent results I know there are some DIY methods for solutions but I didn't feel like trying to reinvent the wheel (that sounds a little insulting but is not meant to be I just have too many irons in the fire already and wanted the path of least resistance). The Caswell chemicals can get expensive, especially if you are dipping larger parts but over all I will break even or probably come out ahead considering I have several cars that need this kind of attention. I prefer plating myself because I can do things in really small batches and not have to loose fasteners or pull together a large order then sort them after plating... I noticed something today... I think it was Motorman7 who commented at some point that the yellow chromate finish is fragile when it is new. I found this to be the case today. After an hour or so I was messing with the bolts I plated. I could scratch the yellow off down to the blue chromate with my finger nail. I will let them harden for a few days and see if this persists. I have been letting the blue chromate dry before the yellow because I didn't want to contaminate the yellow chromate. I may have to dip wet to wet for the yellow to adhere properly...

Listen to Steve, he knows electricity!!!

Why are you worried about the material takeoff on the journal? It doesn't materially effect the strength of the crank. Any crank you buy will need crack checking, polishing and possibly turning? All part of the deal. If you're interested PM me, I have two...