Patcon

or this one? https://louisville.craigslist.org/pts/d/part-out-grade-rhd-updated/6503334481.html

@Redwing @Mark Maras Do either of these cars have the parts you need? https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/d/1976-datsun-280z-parts-or/6553665825.html

I just went and did a compression test. I did it cold because I didn't want to run the car anymore until I have a little better hold on what's going on. #1 135 #2 120 #3 127 #4 135 Not conclusive, as the spread isn't that bad, but the middle two are low. Maybe a leaks in between the middle two?

If you shoot a little starting fluid into each carb throat, will it fire over? It may be the fuel evaporated out of the carbs. It is hard to prime the fuel lines with the starter. Easier if the car fires over a couple of times...

find the parts numbers and log onto Courtesy

So I pulled the plugs after work Pig rich and 1 & 4 are wet. Oil wet I believe. We cleaned them good and put them back in. Ran it at idle for 15 minutes or more. Never really warmed up. so I sent him around the block. He overheated in less than a mile turned around and got home. We still haven't looked to see how low it is. Looking for a pressure tester now...

The hatch hinges have slots in them to help center the hatch. Also you may need to shim the hinges if the hatch isn't in the opening square

Lots of good info and pics in wheee!'s rebuild thread!

Absolutely!

Remake the pocket the way it is now. That is where the crossmember mounts. IE front suspension and motor mounts. It is two layers of material. The inside layer is probably gone too. The reinforcing plates are thicker material than the engine bay sides Somebody else just made these recently @wheee! @grannyknot

Many of the rubber bushings are available new from Courtesy Nissan. They are very supportive of the older cars. There are a few spreadsheets floating around on the forum that list the bushing numbers

Guy, do you know if Eiji will be there or not?

I figured checking plugs and compression test would be next. I checked the oil, a little low but doesn't look milky I did not check the gasket overly close. I agree that's a lot of fluid going somewhere fast! Yup, I thought the Mitty would be a good place to make pictures and pick some people for ideas. It overheated on him the other day, because he forgot to refill it after installing the SU's. So we filled it and he ran it. He drove it 8 miles today to a friends house and it overheated. Was a gallon+ low on water. Filled it and drove it the 8 miles home. Almost 2 gallons low. We ran it for a while tonight with it rev'd and the water level didn't move. There seems to be a tiny bit of oil fill in the radiator...

Ok So some updates: We have gotten his car running. We pulled the old 2 barrel carb and replaced it with a set of SSS SU's that I rebuild and replated. The car runs much better and accelerates much better. But, since no good deed goes unpunished, we have a new problem! We are loosing water and over heating! The manifolds have a water passages from the head and connect to a pipe going around the front of the block. What is the best way for me to narrow down the leak? This is a major leak, like a gallon of water in 10 miles!!! There are no visible leaks that we have found. There is no carpet in the car right now, and we aren't seeing any water in the floor board. My thoughts are manifold passages leaking into the exhaust, a head leak or an external leak that we haven't spotted yet. Any ideas on the best way to go at this? I hate to pull the manifolds again if avoidable. You would think that amount of coolant into the exhaust would be noticeable. I would think it would steam like crazy and probably smell sweet to boot!

Yes, I would find a 5 spd...

You can also use Eastwoods internal frame coatings after your done to help treat inaccessible areas

That looks like fun. I expect I'll see you on Saturday...

When you say you have a hard pedal, does this mean you are driving the car and the pedal pressure is very high? or are you in the shop and the pedal doesn't travel and feels overly hard? What master did they run with the MK63 setup? With the car on jackstands and you press the pedal does it lock the wheels?

Thanks

If you are gonna do a cam, don't go mild. These engines seem to like the more aggressive cams. @Diseazd can speak to this as he has built a number of engines...

That's for a roadster motor. I am not sure it would even work on 510 motor. Neat idea though...

OK C.O., do you think he was making these or sourcing these from somewhere else? Mercedes part maybe? The info you found suggested he had CNC machines but this doesn't really look like a machined part. If it's not machined then it's cast. Casting is not a DIY kind of thing normally. So maybe there is a source somewhere... "Hoover" @240260280 go find it man!

10 years ago this would have been a parts car. These cars are starting to be worth enough to justify an extensive amount of repair work. Especially if you have good metal skills... The lift is a rotisserie, probably home built. Makes it much easier to work on. I would not make major repairs like that on the rotisserie. You need to set it down on blocks or jack stands. Then get a datum line to check the frame straightness. There is a diagram that gives all the frame dimensions in MM's

Was 1/2" enough to not be seen once the rest of the vinyl trim is installed?

@BJammin240