Patcon

There are websites that can help you locate ethanol free gas. Do a search on Google

I agree, no Nova like demand but multiples more than a Z specific part would demand There are a lot of brands under that umbrella!!!!

Why not just id the size and order some brass bushings online. as long as the ID and OD are close the length can be adjusted

It is very difficult to deal with the underside of the battery tray and an OEM type replacement panel is unavailable. I believe the factory assembled the car and sprayed it the same way we try to do it today. After having done this, I can tell you it is almost impossible to get paint up in there. Even treating the underside of the tray is difficult

Didn't you post earlier all the cross references? So isnt the demand more broad? Also the part isn't large or complex so the mold would be pretty simple with just a few holes to bore. Not a ton of capital cost unlike stamping sheet metal

As a general rule you have DTM "Direct to metal primer" not meant to go over other paint or fillers as substrates Epoxy primers are use many times as a DTM type product. Epoxy is tough and sticks great to most anything. It does not sand very well High build primers are primers that have thicker film build. Which helps deal with minor imperfections and sanding scratches There are also primers that are basically liquid bondo, you see these used on show cars sometimes to allow perfect blocking and really exact edges. Evercoat makes one Sealers are last and are used to seal down the substrate to prevent bleed through mainly. I don't run a sealer coat to date There are tons of products available and most paint lines have multiple ways to get from metal to shiny paint. that is where I rely on the counter guys to steer me to the right products. I don't normally scrimp on material cost because better materials are easier to work with on the whole. Better paper sand better and clogs less. Powder guide coat works really good and the can I have will last me for years. I buy mid range primers, decent base coat and mid range clear coat. I shot single stage in the engine bay and door jambs...

Maybe, but an engine that runs closer to stoich requires a lot less maintenance and responds better to fuel inputs

I never do these things over the phone!!! I also way go into my local finishmaster. I know all the guys names. I make small talk with them and ask how they're doing. They don't see me very often but they know who I am and they are always friendly and try to help. If you can cultivate friendships at a good supplier they will try to help you be successful because they like you, because there really isn't any money in it for them. We DIY'ers are a drop in the bucket compared to pro shops. It's all about building the relationship...

Have you talked to Gemstone Auto Paint Supply. They had good reviews online. I did not see the PPG store listed

@Captain Obvious You could include some O2 datalogging to pick up those qualities

My tool was similar but I used a piece of plywood in the center with 2x4 arms screwed to each end. About 5' long overall. I used some wood working clamps to squeeze it with the bottom half held by a vise. Lots of leverage

The original paint is a catalyzed single stage. If it's solid and well adhered you can paint over it. I would primer first so I could make it smooth and prevent bleed through You can have immediate or long term problems. Some problems show up quick, like solvent pops or fish eyes. Some like untreated rust can show up months or years later...

Before you blast or sand anything, wash the engine bay - twice. Then I would use a wax and grease remover. Then sand or blast. I would convert any minimal rust with a phosphoric acid product. I would never use a rattle can primer under a catalyzed paint. Catalyzed primer only. For me I run epoxy over bare metal then I run high build primer. Look @Home Built by Jeff thread. Lot's of good paint instruction and how to's

Yes, I have done it. I did make up a tool for leverage. They can be difficult to reassemble. I found that squeezing the two shells together made assembly possible

NOOOO!!! Talk to the PPG guys. Ask them for what to buy and how to do it. It is also best to stay with PPG products start to finish to avoid incompatibility issues. Be very careful and use a good respirator with these cars paints. They can hurt you in permanent ways if you get careless. You can also go to the PPG website was you have product and get the "P" sheets (technical product instructions) which will provide a lot of the details for how to use the product, grit to finish at, spray tip, pot life, etc. Ask all questions, there are a number of members here who have DIY paint experience. Ask first before you muck something up or waste expensive products. Some one will try to help I am sure

I may have one. I can look...

Maybe @Zup will take you for a ride in his 73 in Oct. He is running flat tops from Paltech and I don't think he has any issues with them

It's probably not oil. It is probably watery soot. My sons car does that sometimes when it's too rich and he revs it. Pull the choke to 3/4 and start it. Then push the choke down some but not enough to make the car stall. Let it warm up a few minutes. Don't rev the car while it's cold! When it warms up enough to rev with out acting up, drive it moderately until it warms up good...

@motorman7 Maybe the next one?

What did they use for a seal on the hatch? Not many sealants play well with gasoline...

@Zup That was one of the things I thought was nice. They seem to have all the strips for the factory bumpers if someone were to need those items

We have already seen some unique Z's sell in the six figure range and some early cars that are really well done trading for north of 50k - 60k. 10 years ago that would have been unheard of. Look at Porsche 911's they are going up like mad. Now that the Z is receiving so much publicity it is highly likely that these cars will continue to appreciate at double digits rates. If classic Z's appreciate at 10% per year the prices will double every 7 years... Hagerty has a1970 #1 class car valued @ $64,400 and a #2 @ $38,700 On another note it wouldn't cost me $50-75 to do one of these cars. I could probably do it for half of that, but my personal shop time is free, sort of...

I found this site on like the 7th page of a google search. I hadn't heard of them. I was looking for 510 seals but they also have Z and ZX seals. I haven't really studied the prices but I thought it might be an interesting source. FWIW http://www.vintagerubber.com/240z.aspx

Maybe, but would one of these be worth the effort at $100k value? In 10 years that's what these early cars will probably bring. Now admittedly these will take a lot of work, but I have seen people redo worse It just takes time and money

Summit racing shows three options for that. One looks stock, two are loaded or semi loaded with pads...