Patcon

If you go square, you will run the same sized rim and tire on all four corners. Which, makes the most sense if there is no performance advantage

Look in my booster testing thread and contact Ed who had the Ebay ad from my thread. He can probably get you one

I have messed with some Holley's definitely not easier than SU's. SU's are super simple with only one circuit and a float level. Holley's have multiple circuits and sometimes two float level. More variables... It may be stumbling from the pump jet, overly rich. See if you can figure out if the pump jet is getting actuated when you are getting the stumble. There is a kit that has different pump cams and allows you to change how the fuel gets added by the pump jet

If I remember correctly, it was my understanding that the Z doesn't benefit from an out of square tire setup. Maybe some of the track or autoX guys can chime in. Also if you run the same size front and rear you can rotate them and the full mileage warranty will apply

I don't suspect the tension rod. I know the 280z strut tubes are different After looking at carpartsmanual.com it appears there were six variations of struts for the front. 3 for the 2 seaters 240z/260z and 280z and 3 for the 2+2 cars. I know the 280z struts are larger diameter so the strut tubes are correspondingly larger. I don't know what the change was from 240z strut to the 260z strut

Not yet. The only one's I've heard back from, I posted That was not directed at you at all!This doesn't constitute thread jacking and your getting better seems more important than boosters at the moment. ?

Maybe, maybe not. It won't surprise me if it gets closer to 50k

@newbzee I think the above is an excellent suggestion for figuring out where the problem really lies. I also suspect it could be an easy fix. If the tube was bent you wouldn't have been able to gain distance the way you have...

I have steering shaft that has this u-joint in it. You can read the number and it's for a needle bearing. Some cool yellow paint from initial assembly and torquing Broke the rack down today. Hard to get it disassembled and clean. 5 cans of brake cleaner! Is there a way to get this tie rod disassembled with out destroying the joint? I can't really tell how they are manufactured I have a LH thread tie rod end. Are those still available? I saw RH and LH available on Rockauto but I can't tell how they're threaded

@Zed Head What are you seeing? I am missing the problem in his picture. Surface rust on the rotors won't be a problem. It will be gone quickly when you get to drive it. If you have to, cut the head off the bolt and remove the caliper. Then drill it out and tap it

But they whine a lot more !!!! ?

I am still not convinced you don't have a bearing or race issue or some other issue with the hub

I think I emailed them too. They have cut back on opioid Rx a lot so some of the new meds don't really deal so great with the pain. Here's hoping for a swift recovery. Getting older ain't for sissy's!!!

I thought it was today. How do you feel? You may not be too sore yet. Surgeons aren't know for being gentle... Take it easy and be careful on the mend!

Check a tire calculator. There was another tire size thread in the last week or so that had calculator links in it. Those wider tires you listed are going to need lower sidewall numbers to keep the speedo anywhere near accurate. I ran 225's (maybe) years ago but they did rub some on factory steelies

Probably, It in theory makes the cars history complete in one place. Sort of like the 56' Beetle my dad bought new. It is essentially a one owner and I have all the receipts. I suspect that would help the value considerably...although we'll never find out.

I think it would be great to locate some builders all across the country. That way people can use the one close to them or a cheaper builder if the freight can be offset. BTW: When is that surgery?

White Post Restorations (This shop does some high end cars) Charles, Yes, we sleeve/rebuild the master and rebuild the booster as a unit. Cost is $470 plus return s/h. If you would like to use our service, please complete the attached form and include it with your order. Best regards, Billy Thompson IV

It's a shame we are losing these craftsmen as they age out and retire. I am afraid with enough time it will get very difficult to reproduce some of these details.

Vanco responded: Charles, We no longer re-build vacuum units, BUT you can call these 2 companies & see if they can. Karps Brake 909-985-0800 Ask for Jeff Power Brake Sales 916-446-7829 Ask for Kathy Edward VancoPBS I heard back from Harmon: Yes, we can as long as the can is a twist & lock (Bendix Type) We can not rebuild the booster with the band around the can $135.95 + Shipping Thank you, Harmon Classic Brakes This is also who I ordered the Mustang booster kit from. The kit was $75 shipped, but could probably be cheaper for our boostes as we need fewer parts. I will have to see if he would cobble a kit together and post them on Ebay. For the extra $60 he would do it all plus shipping, which is not insignificant depending on where you live.

I sent them an email a couple of days ago too ?

Nice car. 5 days to go $37.5k

There are several tank cleaning threads on the forum. That might be easier than rehashing it

I believe Grannyknot is probably correct on all points although I have had clutch disc rust to the flywheel which makes the clutch pedal inoperative. It took a good shock to break the disc loose

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