Patcon

Distributor I'm running Cody thinks the car starts on all six and then starts misfiring. An exhaust obstruction might do that... eBayNew L6 Electronic Distributor Replace For 1970-1983 Datsu...1970-1983 Nissan Datsun 240z 260z 280z. Product Type: Electronic Distributor. 1 x Electronic Distributor as Picture. (The Compatibility Is Just For Reference. -Will dramatically improve the sporty app

More info: Pulled the float bowl lids, fuel was within 0.10" of the same level in both bowls. Pulled the front carb. No obstructions as far as I could see with my ancient borescope. Clear into the head but couldn't see the valve stem. Took the valve cover off and all valve actuate as they should appear to have the proper lift and return. No wiped out lobes Reassembled it all and tried it again. #1 & #2 are both dead. #4-#6 are over 100dF within 15 seconds. The front two are 80dF. Rev it up and hold it for a short while and no change... Next weekend the exhaust will come off and we will look for FOD... Hopefully I can get it apart. The exhaust paste I used is pretty tenacious and I haven't found anything that will dissolve it yet

Plugs are new numbered Nissan. Don't suspect them... Distributor is new electronic from Ebay. No resistor. The cap doesn't locate very positively. So being made in China makes it a suspect...

Correct firing order? 1-5-3-6-2-4 CCW?

Do they have good grounds? Have you tried to bench test them?

New quandary. Need some help! The car is not running on all six cylinders. Using an IR gun the rear 4 are fine over 200dF in just a short period of time. #1 is cooler in the 150dF range and #2 is cold at about 90dF. So we ran a compression test this afternoon. All of them in the low 180#'s except #6 is 178#. So we ruled out valves or stuck rings?? With a timing light I checked all six yesterday and the light strobed on all 6 cylinders. So the plugs are firing?? We moved the plug wire from #2 <-> #3. Same problem and plug #2 was pretty clean... It seems to me if we had a fueling issue then #1-3 would all have issues?? So grasping at straws: An obstruction in the intake manifold or exhaust header? #2 isn't actually sparking? Some problem in the distributor cap? There is not enough fuel in the front intake manifold and #4 just takes it all?? Don't have the patience for this... :(

I made some progress last weekend but not quite there yet. So I drilled out the two rivets at the switch. Replaced them with aluminum pop rivets for now. That made it better but it still didn't work. There was also a continuity issue at these other rivets The only problem is I used a grinder and as the rivet heats up it melts the housing. A die grinder might be a better choice. The LED lamp I was using worked for a moment then freaked out and wouldn't go full brightness. I ordered some more. So we'll see. I would like to replace the aluminum rivets with small copper rivets if I could find some good candidates and a proper way to staked them. They need to be about 0.095" or about 2-2.5mm OD

So Cody and I got the tachometer working tonight. Big thanks to @cgsheen1 Chuck. His explanation for current flow to the tach and back made it all make sense. I took the tip of my thumb off with a hammer tonight in the shop, so I didn't get the last piece of leather in. Opposable thumbs are really useful, as it turns out.

I have used the Zcardepot style pans in the past. It is a lot of work getting them to mate up well to the tunnel. If it were me, I would get the KF pans. I think they are better pans and will give a better finished product. You may not care today about an OEM look today but you might in ten years...

I think I would cap everything on the manifold that uses vacuum with an assortment of rubber caps. Then if you can get the engine started and sorted, add them back one at a time to check for vacuum leaks

I have a maxima rear disc conversion available you're interested...

I wonder if the needles are set too low in the pistons? Closing off the fuel with the choke off

I probably wouldn't coat a stainless header. Jet coat could probably be used though. I bought a Z story exhaust and really like it...

I got back in the shop today. Rear bumper is on. I don't like the fit but it's on for now... License plate light and hatch badges and I think the rear end is done Also worked on installing the leather pieces over the wheel arches I trimmed one of the last pieces and hemmed it with glue

That's a stainless system. Coating isn't required for longevity sake. Coating might help with heat issues