Zed Head

Relays most likely won't fix back your low beams, if that's what you're trying to fix. The problem is probably in the ground circuit at the dimmer switch. If it's the same type of switch as the 280Z you can fix it by spraying contact cleaner in to the switch and working it around or by taking the switch apart and cleaning up the contacts.

Did you use a lug wrench to check nut tightness? And the second part of your sentence is unclear. What are these spacers that make things flush against the rotor?

The hose broken in half is not a brake line. Brake lines are small and made of hard metal. The loose cap has a metal ring that turns about halfway to lock the cap down. Brake fluid goes there. Brake lines will be coming out of the bottom of the metal cylinder that the cap and reservoir are attached to. The other cap in the picture covers a brake fluid reservoir also. The loose wire might be a ground wire for your distributor. You can check if it's a ground with an ohm-meter. There are others here who know more about carbs. You are way back at the very beginning of the learning curve for engines. Be careful. Finding a friend who knows about early car engines would help you out a lot.

A couple of years ago a guy tried to swap a 77 harness in to a 78 and had problems. There are differences that are hard to figure out, for example the fuel pump relay setup and the voltage regulation. Compare the wiring diagrams before you decide to start tearing things out. Might be easier to just fix the bad 75 connections and individual wires. The EFI harness is a complete sub-assembly and is identical, I believe, so swapping just that sub-harness and leaving the body harness might be an option. The doors are different between the two models you have. Most internal parts won't swap, but the door handles and trim parts will. The ECUs and/or AFMs might be the same part number, depending on where the car came from. The brake wheel cylinders in the back are different but the suspensions will swap over as complete units, brakes attached. The 78 cylinders are cheaper and of a better design, dual piston versus sliding cylinder. The windshield and hatch will swap. Heater parts may or may not be different. I had a similar situation, a 76 runner, and a 78 parts car.

The purpose of measuring at the ECU connector is to see what the ECU sees. The numbers you measured are not what the ECU is expecting, so now you should measure at the AFM. If the numbers at the AFM are the same as at the ECU connector then the problem is in the AFM. IF the AFM measures differently (hopefully correctly), then the problem is in the wiring and connections from the AFM to the ECU.

I have one. How much are you offering?

???? You might post a picture of the "wrong" one so that no one tries to send you another.

No, I got my thinking screwed up using the engine calculator and putting negative numbers in the head gasket box to simulate the head shave (the calculator reports piston head contact, probably because the equations used are adding the HG thickness to the deck height). You are right, shaving the head should not cause piston-head contact. Sorry for that, I didn't think it through before I posted. I think that numbers reported by the calculator are pretty close though. Of course, a .074" (1.9 mm) HG would get his head back to where it started.

madkaw makes a good point. Actually, it's not clear what the intent is of the work done. I used one of the calculators and get 8.5 CR for the saved head, versus 7.3 for the stock setup. So now it's actually similar to an N42/N42 setup in CR, and with dished pistons. Plus, the calculator says that the pistons will hit the head. So you might need a thicker head gasket to get back to usable. Flat tops come out at 10.1 CR, but pistons still hitting the head. Looks like a 2.0 mm HG might get you back to 8.4 CR with flat tops, 7.3 with dished pistons. Here's the calculator if you want to explore options - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ You can put a negative number in the HG thickness box to simulate the shaved head. Subtract the shave from the HG thickness.

I measured the compressed fire ring of the HG I removed from what looked like a never disturbed, original (numbers matching), engine in my 1976. I got 1.25 mm also.

Seems like there's been some effort put in to building a nice turbo long-block. You could probably sell it for good money and pick up a complete NA F54/P79 engine, refresh it and come out money ahead. The NA engine will already have the flat-top pistons and the correct cam for NA. Or you could swap the head for an N42 or N47, keep the pistons and new rings, get the CR you want with the smaller N42/N47 combustion chamber, probably along with the right cam, and sell the rebuilt turbo head or keep it as an option for later use.

I linked to this thread in another one but didn't reply. bgm is right, that if you have the 81 distributor with the "matchbox", the matchbox is the what produces the spark. They're very expensive to replace. Why did you swap the ZX distributor for the stock 76 electronic setup? There are actually three main things that "produce" the spark - the pickup coil and iron rotor in the distributor, the ignition module, and the coil. They can all go bad, but the module is the most sensitive. You could wire in a GM HEI module. It's popular because it's cheap and does the same thing the original ignition module does. It takes some wiring modification though.

78 still has the ignition module in the cabin. E12-80s came in 79. But, of course, the symptoms still fit a bad module. A GM HEI module could be wired in if it keeps happening. Edit - another "of course", as soon as I point out that 78 doesn't have an E12-80, someone else shows that it might have a transplanted one. Funny... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47563.html I had a similar thing happen on my 76 though when I was testing out a spare ECU. Plugged it in, took off for a test, and about a mile away it coughed once, then died completely. It restarted, let me turn around and get about half-way back then died again. One more restart got me within jogging distance of the good ECU in the garage. The engine smelled of gas while I was trying to restart it the last time.

You can't see anything unless you have a Facebook account and log-in. This excludes people who haven't bought in to the modern "always connected to the rest of the world" mentality. You should open the page up to anyone who is interested.

Looks in good shape. Don't know if the seller is a member here or not. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3335428641.html

I've worked a little bit with Teflon and learned a few things. "Teflon" is actually a Dupont trademark for a wide variety of PTFE-based materials. So "Teflon" can have a wide range of properties. But, in general, PTFE doesn't actually melt, it is just formable at a certain high temperature. The PTFE plumbing tape you're talking about is probably fine on the fuel rail at engine temperatures. I've used it there and had no problems and it was intact when I took the piece off later. The biggest problem that people report with using PTFE tape on fuel fittings is the little threads and pieces that tend to break off as it's used. They get in to the fuel system, don't dissolve or break down, and can clog things up, or jam things open. But if you're careful it shouldn't be a problem.

Yeah, sorry about that. I actually had an e-mail exchange with one of the technical guys down there to confirm that it was normal and followed up by suggesting that they add some text to the web page or the instructions about it, to save people time trying to diagnose a "problem" that's actually caused by their product. He said they had some stuff in the works but it never happened. That was about a year and a half ago. I assume the marketing department (or marketing person, who knows how big they are) realized that they were better off to leave it unsaid. Caveat emptor...

It's an Echelin Ignition Part. Guess I can dig around the Napa site if I really want to find out. http://m.napaonline.com/Tablet/parts/ProductFinder.aspx?k=ECH-AR269&interchange=false

Interesting. I tried something similar in the past, but on the FPR side because I had an Aeromotive adjustable FPR which didn't hold pressure (none of the Aeromotives do). I didn't really like the check valve I found though. Yours looks interesting but the part number comes up as a relay on the NAPA site.

What kind of shifter? The Z's and ZX's used a different style knob. ZX's are much harder to remove than Z's.

I'll second the opinion on Philbin. They refurbished my wiper motor for a very fair price and did good work. Worth a call.

The dashpot is designed to keep the throttle from closing fast. If it sticks or is adjusted too far down, it will hold the throttle open too lng and your RPM will rise between shifts. It's the round thing mounted on the throttle body with what looks like a vacuum fitting or a plastic game piece mounted on it. Remove the two 10 mm bolts and take the whole thing off and see if you still have the problem. If the sticking goes away, then you can either clean up the dashpot or leave it off. I like having it myself, it makes for more relaxed shifting when it works right. I've also had the inside of the throttle body get gummed up, and cause throttle sticking when the engine got hot. You can clean that up with carb cleaner, but you have to take the AFM boot off to get in there.

Sounds like a sticky throttle, which could have several causes. The throttle body could be gummed up from blowby residue. Or the dashpot could be sticking. You're still not providing much information though. How long have you had the car, did the problem just start, does it happen all the time or only when warm, etc.? Effort returned will be ~proportional to effort put out. Capitalization and punctuation make a big difference

If your starter and clutch worked well, and the flywheel and clutch looked good, then you may not need to do anything. The ring gear teeth always look a little worn just because of the beating they take when the starter gear hits them.

Might be an emissions thing. I've read that projected tip plugs have an effect similar to advancing the timing about 4 degrees, because the flame is initiated closer to the center of the combustion area. Reducing timing seems to be one of the ways that the engineers clean up the emissions gas mix. So, projected tip plugs = "advanced" timing effect = bad gases out the tail pipe. Just conjecture... They went back the projected tip with the P79/F54 combo also in 1980, to add to the puzzle.