Zed Head
Community Member
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Everything posted by Zed Head
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Sounds like the relay is stuck or no good. It's a common normally open 4 pin relay. Any old auto store or junk yard relay could take its place. I lean towards the Bosch units from BMW's. They seem to be of high quality.
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Here's the circuit diagram. Looks like the blue light just shows that the relay got power, but doesn't show that the relay did its job. Notice that of the two wire ends over the window, one is just a ground. Only one has power, you have to pick the correct one. You can just use your meter and test directly to a body ground. If there's no power at either wire, but there is power at the fuse, that would indicate that the relay is not closing the circuit, or it's been disconnected.
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Are you sure that picture came from 1975? I opened up my 1975 file and it shows the typical R200 setup. Regardless, you can see that "1" in your picture is an R180 (the bolts around the input flange). That's the simple direct answer. R180 goes one way, R200 the other. Not sure about different bars. Carpartsmanual shows the same bar, after July 1973. Maybe that's where the beefier bar appeared, since they still used R180's after then, but don't distinguish a different bar (Just realized the from-to on their page is a bit weird). http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension
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I've kind of developed the opinion that Pertronix is just milking everything they can from the old Pertronix ignitors. They've apparently changed manufacturers (comments from old posts) to save money and the quality of the product seems poor. Lots of failures and problems. They don't even really support it on their own web site. Where is the #1761? - http://pertronix.com/support/instructions/ You could probably use the Pertronicx ignitor to run a GM HEI module. The coil current would be handled by the HEI and the trigger signal supplied by the Pertronix unit. Pertronix actually suggests similar, using the Ignitor to run an MSD. I think it's the high current from the coil control that fries the units. http://pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/ Works great in stock point-type distributors as a trigger for multi-spark CD ignitions, eliminating the need for expensive aftermarket distributors.
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Here is a sign that the internet is taking over the internet. I don't know if this is circular logic, circular illogic, or circular something else. I do feel like I went around in a big circle thought. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alum From the wiki: Industrial uses " Alum solution has the property of dissolving steels while not affecting aluminium or base metals, and can be used to recover workpieces made in these metals with broken toolbits[5] lodged inside them.[6] As considerable expense and/or effort may have gone into machining a specialist part, this can be a worthwhile exercise. " Reference [5] - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM AvE demonstrates usage of Alum to remove a broken stud from an aluminium engine head Reference 5 is the Spice video.^^^^^ that BGM posted. The link is messed up.
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I browsed around the internet a bit. Seems like drills and taps are the most common items removed using alum solution. I wonder if the stainless steels are affected the same way? The aluminum is unaffected because it has a protective layer of oxidized aluminum. I think that stainless steel works in a similar fashion, forming a protective layer. Might have problems with the stud materials used. Still, worth a shot on studs in aluminum heads. Studs in exhaust manifolds or engine blocks, out of luck. I wonder also what the bubbles are. Could be oxygen or hydrogen, depending on the chemistry. I'm not even thinking about doing a chemistry equation but someone out there might.
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The question would seem to be about time. Did he wait three minutes or three weeks. And there's no need to corrode the whole stud, just reduce the diameter slightly. Something's wrong here folks. Lots of show, with the drug inferences and the weird Canadian curse words. Then magic happens and the stud is gone.
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Wow, a Canadian stoner. Had to listen hard to translate what he was saying. This guy is apparently saying that the whole stud dissolves or is corroded away. But he doesn't show it. Why would you make a 4 minute video but not show the most important part? Looks fake. Where's the myth buster guys? I've wondered if something like Naval Jelly, or phosphoric acid solution wouldn't dissolve/reduce the rust. The hard part though is getting it in to the threads.
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That worked. Using the chain "link" icon, I get a text "link. Using Share or copying the actual url from youtube, I get the big window. Windows 7, Chrome, desk top computer. BUT!. Just can't win. The link now takes me to youtube, as desired, but starts a 30 second ad. The whole ad has to play. Crap.
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That was kind of a rhetorical question. Seems like the thinner tire and its well would allow the tank to either be enlarged or raised. Maybe they raised the tank. The raised deck floor is another question. Maybe they lowered the body deck with the thinner spare, kept the tank in the same place, then added the fiberboard floor for sound-damping. Maybe the deck usable floor level is actually the same from 75 to 78. Anyone know for sure?
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Why did Nissan make all of those changes? They lost 1/8 gallon of tank capacity according to the Owners' Manual.
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That makes more sense. Actually, I'm not sure the deck is sloped so much as raised. It's different though. Your car sounds like a normal 76 car, with the big tire well, and the gas tank that fits it.
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How about a photo of the hatch area with the sloped shelf. Or even the spare tire. that would be the oddest 1976 car I've ever seen. Still a good car, no doubt, just very strange. The back shelf and spare tire change is a major major body modification by Nissan. Your car would have to be almost a prototype that slipped out the door. Super rare. Or that tag came from a different car. Still not a big deal, as long as you have clear paper work. It happens. See that recent Series1 or Series II thread.
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Are you sure that 5 isn't a 6 and you really have a 77 model? Another 77 sign is the bumper rubber. 77 has the accordion shape, 76 is smooth. You can see the 77 bumper ends in this video. Don't even have to play it.
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Yes, I think that xenonzcar is right also. Might even be the same files. I always post the link to nicoclub because the pdf files open automatically,and can be saved directly. Super easy. Xenon requires an unzipping program.
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I had created a Suggestion, or a Bug report asking for the ability to post just the url, with a click required to go there. Not really a fan of the embed window taking up half of the page. Don't like it. Look at my two posts, there's a huge picture, and the words are easy to miss. It's too "in your face".
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Not a Blue bash - but the individual chapters in the 1977 Download FSM are actually 1976 chapters. Here's a link o the 1977 file. Unfortunately CZC doesn't have one at this time. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/
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The sloped decks came with a tiny spare tire and a can of fix-a-flat. To be sure we're all talking about the same thing. 76 should have a full size spare. A 76 with the sloped deck and tiny spare would be very odd. I'd suspect some weirdness on the paperwork and VIN plates if I saw one like that. OR, 1976 is the change year. Who knows. My 76 is 1/76 build. The 77 FSM shows a side gauge. I think though, that the 1977 FE chapter on the internet might actually be 1976. It's the same drawing number, Or Nissan never got the 77 FSM right. My mistake.
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1977 was one of the "change" years. The Service Manual says that your car shouldn't have the access door or the gauge on the top. But 1978 does so maybe they switched early. Download the 1978 manual and open up the FE chapter to get an idea of where things are. Get the 77 manual also, for the other stuff. In the Downloads section, thanks to Blue. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/
