Zed Head

The other thing that causes rev limiter behavior is a shorted throttle valve switch (TVS, or TPS). Washing the engine is the most common cause. p.s. always nice to get the common courtesy of acknowledging someone's post. One out of three isn't bad, but still, three is not that many.

$30,000. Not bad.

You can get your own part numbers here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-240Z-260Z/Cylinder-Head Check out #38, on your interference problem. More choices.

Too bad it's on craigslist. Probably never find out what it goes for or even if it sells. Maybe somebody could contact the seller and tell him to put it on BAT.

It does have a rally clock. I might trade him a Valiant for it.

Are you easing your way up to 3000, at partial throttle, and the problem happens? Could be the "lean" problem. If you can finesse it to some open road, you might find that full throttle takes it right up to 6000 rpm, but part-throttle coughs, bucks and pops back through the intake system. Full throttle adds 27% extra fuel. If that fits, then 246's atlanticz fuel tweak is one way to fix it. Not sure what the exact cause is but it seems related to the AFM. Could also be that somebody has leaned out your AFM by adjusting the spring. Either way, it sounds lean.

The front mount can be flipped also.

My mistake, thanks for the correction. Here's a more general layman's world document. https://polyurethane.americanchemistry.com/Products-Resources-and-Document-Library/General-Personal-Protective-Equipment-Recommendations-for-Automotive-Refinish-Coating-Applications.pdf I spent a summer at a chemical factory and some of the old-timers there said that they used to use TDI (toluene diisocyanate) to degrease their hands. They also used to dump unwanted drums in the river. Times have changed.

The link I put in my last post shows the changes. It's just a little cringe-worthy watching you grind when you can bolt instead. Carry on...

There's three different diff mounts out there. #16 below. Why would you need a spacer if the holes aren't the right size. Thought you were going to grind and oblong. Lots of ways to get the diff in there, but if it's not right you might have vibration and noise problems, if you drive it. What are you going to do with the car once it's together? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Axle/Rear-Suspension

Actually, they can be both or more. The starting material can be an epoxy, with the curing agent being isocyanate-based, or vice-versa with the starting material being a polyurethane (from isocyanates) and the curing reaction being from epoxies. People can get sensitized to agents used to make either. Really, any coating with volatiles, the solvents that you can smell, is dangerous. There is no safe solvent or coating, before it's cured. I met somebody that had applied epoxy coatings and adhesives for years until one day when his body decided no more. He couldn't even get near to them after that. He still seemed stunned telling us the story, as students visiting his kit airplane company. Avoid the vapors, even if you've not had prior problems. Once you get sensitized you can't be fixed, no going back. Charcoal filters designed for organic vapors is what you want. Or a self-contained breathing system. https://www.osha.gov/dts/shib/respiratory_protection_bulletin_2011.html

Thought you were the owner and it was sitting in the family garage. Just realized that you're a car dealer and it's the company garage. Why don't you guys just put it back together? You should have the people. You have some nice old cars in stock. https://www.victorynaples.com/ https://www.victorynaples.com/1966-Ford-F250/Used-PickupTruck/Naples-FL/11226530/Details.aspx

I don't know the break point for model years. October is either late 70 or early 71. The date you're seeing is the build date. All manufacturers start building next year's models before the first of the year. It's neat car with paperwork. Keep those documents and put a story together.

Just do it for your wallet, or both. It has known history. Quick resto and sale, then start another project maybe. Although, the resto-mods seem to be doing well. Did you ever post the VIN? Some people want automatics. I hear they drive pretty smooth.

Good ingenuity. The other potential problem is the fork hitting the back of the hole before full release. Doesn't look centered, and looks like more than 6 cm. Might want to test it while the trans is easy to get out. The clutch system is super easy to bleed and doesn't take much fluid. Alrighty, that's my high-concentration Home Built catch-up. Good luck. From #67.

Here's the whole playlist of 240Z specific videos. This is what your sig should be. Porsche, Volkswagen, etc. just clutter up the page. No offense. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnidW9Wb_Djx4zNB2ykgV5usgGihI8dhW

Yeah, that is some weird stuff. 2:20 in the video. I'm not aware that the stud spacing changed on the diffs over the years. Maybe it did. Do you know your gearing? Of the transmission and the diff. You want low matched with high or vice versa. There's quite a range available. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJMua4Y-eP0&list=PLnidW9Wb_Djx4zNB2ykgV5usgGihI8dhW&index=67&t=0s

MEK would be the better solvent. The MEK rub test is an actual coatings test, to assess degree of cure of 2K type coatings. It's a people-power test but they've tried to make a machine for it. A look in to the world of paint. http://www.trl.com/paint_solvent/ https://gardco.com/pages/abrasion/mekrubtest.cfm

The forward mounted angle caused vibration. But it was only on the very early cars. They changed in 71 I think. The propeller shaft was lengthened also. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Power-Train/Propeller-Shaft I'm not following all of the videos, I have a short attention span and can't watch a video for more than a minute, but aren't your parts supposed to fit together? Or are you piecemealing? On your videos - if you add an index to each one, ID'ing certain operations like diff install, trans install, etc. by time point, people can go directly to specific parts. Might get you more viewers. The suggestion is mainly for me though.

I hope that the second garage is yours, not the first one.

Here's that measurement from outside. ~6 cm.

There have been several posts on this site and around the internet about the fact that you can't go wrong with your clutch parts if the measurement from the "ears" of the throwout sleeve collar to the flywheel surface is close to 92mm. There are ways to make the "wrong" parts work but if you have that measurement then you can use a common late 240Z-280Z clutch fork and 280Z slave cylinder. Not sure if it was mentioned in previous posts. Here's one of several threads where we talk about it. I've also measured from the fork to the slave cylinder bolt, to confirm from the outside if the parts are right. I believe that you have the engine in now so let's hope...

Some new posts on the BAT site today. The Scarab club seems even smaller and exclusive than the early 240Z club. Can't even see the information unless you have a Scarab, apparently. I wonder if there's a secret hand shake. And, Brian Morrow is apparently still around, somebody talked to him via phone. Must be fun to see so much excitement over what he started. $21,000 as of now.

The bolts on the side flange area are an R180. Plus you can tell by the cover. The picture that 246 grabbed from your video, in post #349, shows an R180 cover. R200's didn't show up in the Z's until 1975.

I remember spending a lot of time trying to find a better tool for the plug than a half inch drive "knob". It doesn't quite fit and tends to slip out. I can understand why the plug was switched in the video.