Zed Head

Were the old plugs wet when you took them out? Or dry? And did you measure sensor resistance at the ECU connector? You said that you have up above but you didn't say specifically here. You haven't really confirmed good spark either. I had weak spark once that looked decent but wouldn't start the engine. My bad ignition module would start with starting fluid but not with gasoline. Did you use real starting fluid or some other fluid like carb cleaner? Starting fluid is pretty potent if spark is present. If you have spark and dry plugs you should get a few pops with starting fluid. You could wire up a GM HEI module pretty quick for about $25. A fairly inexpensive test, and then you'll have a spare. If all else fails the last suggestion is another ECU, according to the FSM. What you're describing is typical of how ECU's fail. One last thought is bad gasoline.

It says it's in Blaine, WA but it has MO plates, with October 2019 tags. Seems odd. There's not much up in Blaine. About 30 miles from Vancouver, B.C. if I remember right. Maybe the guy just moved up there.

Those eBay injectors are odd. They don't list 75-79 which also use the same injector. They've had the tops machined off so that you can use a hose with a clamp. I'd stick with the readily available barb style. A known quantity. Amazon sells injectors too, of course. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=280z+fuel+injectors https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-1980-to-1983-Datsun-280zx-Bosch-4-Hole-Spray-Direct-Replacement-Fuel-Injectors/202569390132?epid=26009781693&hash=item2f2a139834:g:zR4AAOxygKZSThrJ:rk:1:pf:0

Is the car going to sound like the Terminator when turning? The Turninator? I've never seen, or heard, an electric power steering system. Will it need a high output alternator for the twisties? My inner nerd needs to know....

I have 205 70 14's on my slightly lowered car with stock size wheels, whatever that is. One brand rubbed very very slightly in a tight corner if there was a bump, the other brand never rubbed. 195's should be fine. No pictures.

Dang...we've gone from $40,000 to $4,000. So sad. Kidding. It looks like a fairly nice daily driver 240Z that a guy could restore a piece at a time. All the parts are there, except the front bumper. I didn't realize that granny had worked with so many Z's. Nice history.

used to be Datsun Parts LLC. He changed the name and tried to get away from past bad press. His prices are very high and he'll make it very difficult if you have a problem. Many of his parts are available from Rockauto, eBay, or other vendors for much less. Search the site and you'll learn. Here's one thread from way back. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/29706-terrible-vendor-datsun-parts/

"I refuse to buy your car because the price is too low!" How do you know what he deserves? Anyway. It's a 240Z in SE Texas, with minor front end damage from some sort of collision. Getting down there and transporting it will be the big issues.

Seems priced about right, except for the 4 speed. We all have 4 speeds sitting in our garages, left over from our 5 speed swaps. Hard to even give those away. You might add mileage on the engine to your ad. Good luck.

Are you going V8 or did the car get damaged? @Tempestas Should have made a video of the engine running.

I'd leave it. It looks small. It might even be sealing itself once the manifold gets hot.

He's probably posting all over the net. @Snaponfitz

I think that people are excited over the fairly low VIN and the fact that it looks unmodified. Except for the accident. 3266 isn't really that low though. How much damage is there underneath? Looks like somebody hit or ran over a large object.

there is no such site You might be able to fill in a few details if you posted what you know about your car.

$35,000 for sure, easily. We need to make sure that people who want a 240Z pay as much as possible and strangers who are selling their 240Z's get as much as possible. It's the right thing to do.

It's called an air dam or front spoiler. There are different styles. https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+front+spoiler&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiw_6Pb1I_gAhUzLn0KHZ4bAQkQ_AUIDigB&biw=1496&bih=723

Assemble, assembled, assembly. I see now - arse'y Arsemble, arsembled, arsembly. Or is it arseembled and arseembly?

"P" signifies a projected tip plug. The electrodes are further in to the combustion chamber. Might be part of the problem. https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/technical-glossary/

You might check your coolant temperature sensor circuit. There are two bullet connectors in the harness in the vicinity of the AAR. If it gets disconnected the ECU will think you're in the Arctic, or Minnesota today, and add tons of extra fuel.

Seems like devising some sort of torque plate to attach to the head before skimming the bottom sealing surface would be the way to go. Then when it's bolted to the block it's all flat and smooth. You might have to mill pockets on the bottom surface for the bolt heads though so that you can fly cut the bottom in one pass. Pull the top of head up against a flat surface.

The yellow wire only gets power when the key is turned to Start. No power there when the key is on. No offense, but you need to go through the sequence of how things work. It will help your troubleshooting efforts. Sounds like the points might have been closed when the key was on, or the points distributor is wired incorrectly with constant power, and the engine stopped with the points closed. Looks like you overheated the coil. Voltage is not measured across + and - , it's measured from + to ground, and - to ground. You're making progress. Good luck.

Check the little yellow wire to the starter solenoid. It might be loose or disconnected. You're standing right there by the coil with the key on. Might as well take a measurement. Sometimes people take the same measurement multiple times.

Never mind.

When are you going to post a picture or two?

Here's a couple more. Marty Rogan's thought about the ballast resistor fits your problem pretty well. I'm not sure how deep the EFI manual goes in to the ignition system. Check the Engine Electrical chapter in the FSM. 1975 has a ballast resistor, it's the white ceramic things with a bunch of wires connected to it, by the coil. Good luck. Get good measurements and write them down. Download a 240Z FSM if you want to learn how to set your points. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/