Zed Head

Tomorrow night at 6:01 pm! Exciting!

I made some comments in the past about harmony01. I seem like a d*** but they seemed appropriate at the time. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q=harmony01&quick=1

It's the harmony01 guys again. Suspiciously close to URGELIS in Rancho Cucamonga. That is a low number though. I wonder if it's in the Registry of America. Says he prefers period look, but drives it daily with mags. ? I actually use my cars and drive them daily... I prefer a period look and feel to 100 point concours cars.

You said the gap was too big when using new unmodified standard rings. Honing won't make the gap smaller, it will make it bigger. I was replying to Diseazd's comment. He said to just hone and use standard parts, but you already tried standard parts. That was your original point.

On your original point about forums, I found on the Ford forum I frequent that there are many good people on the forum. Smart and helpful. But the A-holes are lurking, waiting to jump in and get their perverse thrills by abusing new members. Usually it's just a few guys that have banded together in their weakness. If you just maintain a good attitude the good ones will usually come out to help and the A-holes will fade away. Many forums are like this, I think. Trolls are everywhere, it's a disease.

Once you close your mind to the possibility that some of the people you're seeing might be different, better, then you end up treating the ones you want like the ones you don't want. It's a vicious cycle. Polarization. You, for example, could be classified as ex-military with certain views living in a certain state in the southeast. Therefore, based on your logic, you're just like the guys we're seeing videos of now, storming the Capitol. Because people with your same profile were there, a known fact. Some arrested. Who knows, maybe you were there. Based on the facts, and your proposed logic, it fits. Per your own method. On the other hand, many of us probably know cops and ex-military and people from certain areas of the country, that would never have participated in that. Even though they fit the physical profile. So, in the end, profiling doesn't do anything but give a person a false sense of security, of thinking that they know something that they don't. Better to put the effort in to learning about each person or group of people you're dealing with, than making an assumption that has high odds of being wrong.

I browse the Ford F150 forums and see misfire topics all the time. Often it's not the coil but something else like injectors. The common test is to swap coils with another cylinder and see if the problems follows the coil. I don't think that you can generalize "people" to regions, or any other characteristic. Bad people are everywhere, sometimes you just don't see them. Or you might just be hanging out in certain areas, like airports or hotels, and mischaracterizing a whole part of the world based on a small sample. Generalizing generally doesn't work, you can't classify humans like that, by where they live or what they look like. Everyone is different.

The Z's are back, the Z's are back! 73 with some modifications. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-149/

You could create a new account in order to contact someone. They can delete it afterward.

He said the new rings, unmodified, have a gap that is too big. Honing won't make the bore smaller, and you can't file a ring end to make it smaller. Cut it twice and it's still too small applies here also. I wonder if the pistons aren't already one size over. There are no piston measurements here. You kind of just need to get all of the measurements and figure out the best combination. For just a few thousand miles a year, you could probably just hone and put the big gap rings in and be fine.

The first thing that I'd do is to stop mixing your measurement systems together. Pick metric or pick standard but pick just one. What size are the pistons? Rings, pistons and cylinders all need to work together. I'd try one of the oversize rings, fit it, and see how it fits the bore. If your bore is ovalized (you never answered that question) then it's probably equally bad to use an oversize ring gapped down as a "proper" ring with a big gap. They're both round rings in oval bores. Most of the blowby will come from the poor seal in general, not the larger gap. You might just fit one oversize ring, stick it in the bore and shine a bright light around the edges. If it's a poor fit you'll see light shining through.

What do you mean by "out of tolerance"? End gap? And do you really mean .003 millimeters? That is a tenth of a thousandth of an inch. .0001 inches. Is the bore oval'ed? That's the other measurement you want to take. If you're only planning a few thousand miles on it you might be best to buy rings that will seat quickly. Some ring materials would probably still be breaking in by the time you rebuild it again. And I think that there are tricks to get a quick break-in, at the expense of longevity. A rough hone finish, for example. Not an expert, others know more.

Say it ain't so Bruce! DieStupid. https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/bruce-willis-reportedly-asked-leave-232941113.html

The piston thing just came up recently.

$18,000 for the Roadster. Just discovered that you can't see some bids unless you sign up. Weird.

If your front end groans and moans when you go over speed bumps and driveway ramps it's the rear poly bushings working the back of the TC rod. Eventually it will break it off. Most people use rubber on the back. It doesn't really see much use when braking like the front one does.

I read the instructions as saying to fit the bushing to the bracket with that 1/16" gap BEFORE torqueing it down. In other words they only want the bushing to be compressed by 1/16". On your first caliper picture I'd say just be sure that the channel that leads from the bleed screw goes to the top of the bore. It looks like it might be a straight shot to the bottom f the bore in your picture. Some applications have the channel leading to the side of the bore and you have to remove one bolt and pivot the caliper to get the bubble at the channel to the bleed screw. Basically, you just have to think in terms of air bubbles.

Here are some instructions from companies that make plugs and wires. Might be something good in them. https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/wire-sets-installation https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/How-to-Remove-and-Replace-Spark-Plug-Wires.html https://e3sparkplugs.com/blog/how-to-replace-your-spark-plug-wires/

Could you show a picture of the instructions? I tried to find them on their site but they don't have them. https://www.stsuspensions.com/productfinder?c_year=1973&c_make=67&c_model=2284-20&c_car=34251-81-108-4-14492&pgs=292&ag=stsuspensionsantiswaybarkit By the way, even though the bleed screw is pointing up I think that the entrance to the caliper bore is at the bottom, if if it's a straight drill hole. Probably have problems bleeding.

Back to the original post. Most caps are made of a thermoset plastic, which does not melt. That might just be degradation from some other cause. Does the engine run well? If so, why not just put the cover back over it and run it? Jacobs is an older company that made ignition systems. They made a CD system, like MSD's, and an induction system. They only seem to be selling in Australia now. http://www.jacobselectronics.com.au/ https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/whatever-happened-to-jacobs-electronics.1405746/ https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jac-372546

What are you using? Many of us are using high energy (voltage) ignition systems with stock distributor caps and no problems. So, probably not.

Thousands (millions maybe) of people have been fine with just jamming a new dry clean wire in to the hole. You just need to get things to the way they're supposed to work. Somebody mentioned arcing. Maybe your cap is not seating well on the rotor and you're getting an arc across that gap. I don't know how much excess heat that would produce, there are six arcs per revolution inside the cap anyway. Check the inside of the cap, the center, to see what's happening and the contact point on the rotor. Find the source of the heat. Create a path of good contacts from the coil to the rotor top and your situation should become normal.

The Z wave has passed, apparently. Here's another old Datsun though. 66 Roadster. The engine bay looks a lot like a Z's, with the dual carbs and intake and exhaust on the same side. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-datsun-1600-roadster-19/

No. And if it keeps getting hot the tape will get all melty and gooey. Big mess.

You might just have a dirty/poor connection and the resistance is causing heat. Maybe get a new center wire and a new cap and make sure that the wire is pressed al the way in. There really shouldn't be much heat generation there.