Zed Head

Which part? He covered several things.

L = Blue. HA is the Heating and Air Conditioning chapter. Here's the top half of page 71.

It might be. But from where you're at now it will be easy to find out. You have your wiring to the coil correct. Get that distributor back in and the spark plug wires right. No need to jump the gun. Charge the battery.

Washington state's risk level just went up, according to COVIDActNow. It's the game, say it's over too soon and people start taking more risk. Hope we get it knocked way down over the summer. South America is suffering, I think, because it's winter down there, among other issues. https://covidactnow.org/?s=1919837

I think I asked this the first time it was posted. Where did this graphic come from? Anybody notice that, like, 2/3 of the news outlets are left of middle? Suggests that the person who put the graphic together sees the middle as to the right. Just an observation. I don't even see The Epoch Times on it. Off the chart.

That is actually good then. All 5 spots should show the same voltage and it should be battery voltage. Your wiring looks correct at the ballast and coil, as far as power supply. Get the distributor back in and wired right and you might get some spark. In your recent post you said that you didn't get spark but you didn't say how you tested it. Spark only happens when the current flow through the coil is interrupted.

You might have a short to ground on the blue wire from the coil negative post. Or the ignition module is shorted internally. Unplug the ignition module and take your measurements again. That will remove the ignition module from the picture. The voltage measured should be battery voltage. Make sure the battery is 12.6 or greater. If you have a short to ground you won't get any spark. It's also bad for your ignition parts.

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The wiring diagram (and the construction of the ballast resistor itself) says that you should see voltage on all three terminals if any of them show voltage. Because they are all connected. If you remove the ballast resistor and flip it over, like you were going to do last night, you will find that the dead terminal is disconnected from the other two, either because the wire is broken or burnt, or because the screw came loose. There is a short path for starting (the middle terminal) and a long path for running (the end terminal).

It will allow more current, but your coil has slightly higher resistance than the stock one so it will even out. It should be fine for testing.

The 2nd post in the thread below has some good information. Take that measurement and see if you get close to 92 mm. Make sure the throwout sleeve is right for the pressure plate.

Was. But your distributor misalignment and spark plug wire mess wouldn't be related to a bad ballast resistor. You should make a list of each problem and how to fix it. You have several things that you need to do just get the engine started. There will be more problems to solve to get it running right. There's not going to be one thing that makes everything work right. And don't start any new threads.

Seems like many of us aren't reading other people's posts. Much repeating of advice, but, of course, the many threads on the same topic aren't helping at all. Shawninvancouver is definitely jumping around, but he has done a few things that have identified things that definitely need fixing.

How have you determined the cause of the damage?

Here is one. I would not do anything until you check the one that you have though. And before you do some other tests. If you find that your ignition module is bad you will probably replace it with a module that does not need a ballast resistor. It would be a waste of money. You could wire in a GM HEI module and just get rid of the ballast resistor entirely. https://zcarsource.com/ballast-resistor-260z-280z-74-5-76-used/

Electrical is difficult to learn but powerful once you get some basics down. A test light is a simple starting point. An inexpensive meter would be the next level.

You can test it by connecting the wire on the dead terminal to the middle terminal. This will run more current through the coil and ignition module (more heat) but should be okay for a test. I looked around the internet and did not find any three terminal units. The four terminal units could be used also, one of the terminals is just a junction for the negative terminal of the coil.

The ballast is still broken if all three terminals don't have power. The way it's wired won't affect what you showed with your test light.

I'm not sure if the wiring is correct but if you have power to any of those three terminals you should have power to all of them, because of the way the ballast is designed. The last terminal in your ballast is not connected to the others. Either the wire broke or the screw came loose. You want a three prong ballast just to match what you have. It might be three prongs to protect the ignition module. Looks like they are hard to find though. Take yours off and see what's broken. Might just be a loose screw.

With everything turned off, use a meter and test for a dead short from the fusible link terminal. You never described why or how the fusible link blew. Somehow you're on to hot wiring the solenoid.

C'mon it's still light out....

Better shot.

Disconnect the wires, remove the ballast resistor and turn it over. Looks like it might be damaged. The wire is probably broken.