Zed Head

S30 did say "exactly" and your post confirms the inexactitude. If you consider that they chose two zeroes for their estimate the next lower double zero is 1,400. "Fewer than" 1,500 could be 1,401 to 1,499.

There's a guy planning to sell some of his Z collection, looks like he's already sold some. Save your pennies. https://bringatrailer.com/member/cmillermorris/ cmillermorris (The Seller) This author's likes: 89 @Chrystal I have had this discussion with BAT a few times. They do not want to assume the liability. The story on this car is it was sold new in Sioux City, SD. The first owner purchase the car and kept it in his barn until the early 2000’s and it was sold to the second owner. The second owner was going thru a divorce and it was his “mid-life crisis” car. That is where the second owner repainted the car. The repaint is well done in my opinion. The car is 100% OEM(added dash cap). The only option the car is missing is the aluminum alloy wheels that were offered. As you can tell I added those. I do have the original wheels and hub caps mounted on new tires. I am the third owner of this car. The only reason I am selling it is because I am selling my house and I will not have room for all of my collection. Over the next few months you will see several of my cars on BAT.

Somebody's counting. 384? Not sure why they put a log on top of the car. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2017488148479045/

As I understand it the heart of the whole "package" is that black was a non-standard color. So it gets the code for black at the factory and a couple of other things and ta-daaahh, it's a Black Pearl. This one doesn't have its original paint though so it's a cultured pearl now, I guess. All it has is that paint code showing what once was. "The Black Pearl 280Z was the first US-market Z-car offered by the factory in black (638). This example was repainted in its current black during previous ownership in the 2000s and features factory-style red and silver stripes, dual side mirrors, and a power antenna."

The 2020 370Z 50th Anniversary barely got in to 1971 240Z money. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2020-nissan-370z/

I think that emissions efforts were driven by the States, mostly California, the LA basin, because we have so many cars and burn so much fuel. Choking on the smog. A 1983 European model 280ZX might not have an O2 sensor, or a catalytic converter. Can't find a reference source but I'm also pretty sure that many non-States 280Z's still used carbs for quite a while after EFI was introduced.

1978 with special paint code. Non-catalyst. 2020 oil change! Needs new headlights. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-84/

He built his own small fuel supply system in the engine bay, apparently. I don't think the ignition switch is involved at this point. I should add to my other point about the temperature sensor that if the wires are shorted the opposite problem occurs. The ECU thinks it's very hot and cuts fuel supply down. If we were all standing around the car pointing at things it would probably be running by now. But I think he needs to get that meter out and take just a few measurements. EFI is more about electricity than the mechanical stuff. p.s. finally figured out exactly how this "multi-quote" thing works. It's weird how these programmers will put all of these cool features in to their work but not give any instruction on how to use them. All of that coding effort, gone to waste for most. Wonder what else I'm missing.

There are two temperature sensors up there. One is for the gauge, it has a single terminal, the other is for the ECU, it has a connector like a fuel injector (EV1 style). The one for the gauge is usually called a sender, not a sensor. If the sensor for the ECU is disconnected the engine will flood with fuel, because the ECU "thinks" that it's -40 degrees. The water temperature sensor needs to be connected. You can test the pins at the ECU connection to be sure it's working correctly. There's a chart in the FSM and in that book that show what the resistance should be.

The sandworm sold for $10,750. The driving video isn't bad. Probably worth it, a fun car that you can not worry too much about.

Another ZX. Blue. Says 19k miles and kind of looks it. Not sure if I've seen the need for a terminal block in the engine bay at 19k though. Don't think that's stock. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-datsun-280zx-19/

The engine will take longer to start with the CSV plugged or removed. But it's not too bad. It's a simple device and might just be stuck open. It's easy to test. Removing the fuel line and plugging it is a simple and easy way to see if that is the problem. Don't forget that it will have 36 psi behind it at all times with the pump on. And you might leave your plugs out and spin the engine to blow the excess fuel out. Sounds like there was a lot of excess fuel in the manifold.

I am pretty sure that the metal one will swap right over. I remember messing around with a bunch of parts and realizing that Nissan had done some cost-cutting. Looks like it's called a set collar. It just sets and spins. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/280z/12

Fuel would be coming out of the AFM according to your description. It's the next thing after the air filter.

It depends on the fuel being used and the camshaft and how you plan to drive it. Best to stay away from highest.

New 72. Doesn't look bad. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-159/

When I first saw the title I thought it said "Total dog butt". Maybe it should have.

Did you get the hoses connected right and the wiring too? The pumps will run backward and if you connect the pump to the return line it will be blocked by the FPR. Your best option right now is to get a decent meter, volts and ohms, and take some measurements. Confirm that you have power to the injectors for one thing. If the injectors don't have power they won't do anything. Kind of seems like you don't have injector power. You probably have a bad connection at the EFI fusible link by the battery. You can do one thing at a time and think between each one or you can spend an hour and take a whole bunch of measurements. Write down the numbers, whatever you decide. "Good" is not as good a real number. Good luck.

What kind of fuel pump did you use? You need a high pressure fuel injection pump and high pressure hose. If you're going to make it run right you'll need these. The 1980 book covers all the way back to 1975.

Tempting, but I don't know much about carbs. They need tuning.

It's ready to hit the road though. That's something. And it's got poly... Seller's description Selling my 72 240z Runs and drives but the carbs will need to be retuned. Has l24 with twin 32/36 Weber's 240sx rear disk conversion New clutch hydraulics Will need floor pans 10 gal fuel cell temporarily installed Comes with full poly bushing kit. As well as a spare l28 motor Rear apron was cut out due to excessive rust

I don't know. It's been modified.

What does this mean, above? Is the ignition system stock? And is the rest of the car complete? There are several things that need to be connected to get the injectors to open and close. It might be that the EFI system doesn't have power and it's starting from the cold start valve fuel. You'll need a multimeter or test light to make much progress. Check the EFI system fusible links.

Grannyknot posed 43 minutes ago. Must be back up. Last post before his was 18 hours before then.

Sounds like you can't see it if you're logged in, and you can only log out by deleting cookies. So it's a read-only forum now. Super Dan is online now. He must know something is up.