Zed Head

Not a Z or a Datsun, might be pretty fast. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-detomaso-pantera-26/

Not a Z or a Datsun, probably not very quick (0.8 liter engine) but kind of neat. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-honda-s800-coupe/

Going for the perfect rear wheel bearing install. Karma says you'll slide in to a curb on your maiden voyage. Just kidding! Did you examine the old bearings for damage? Wondering what was making the noise.

My thought was more about "what now" after they got in there. Even if they accomplished their "mission" and there were several dead politicians scattered around, then what? Occupy the Capitol building? I lived in the Portland area when the same type of people "occupied" the Malheur Wildlife Refuge buildings. All they did was camp out there for a little over a month, but accomplished nothing. Same type of scenario, use their guns and take over a tiny spot on the face of the globe. For what? The wild west isn't wild anymore. That stuff doesn't work now. https://www.oregonlive.com/portland/2017/02/oregon_standoff_timeline_41_da.html

Mistake.

*sigh*

Mistake.

Mistake.

Mistake. Sorry to the guys that "reacted". I spit the hook.

There was actually a good crowd on there for a while. They knew a lot. Tony D was a troll, you just had to ignore him. Even Tony D had some good advice at times, if you picked through his vitriol. Most of them have moved on, some left the Z world, some just got tired of the internet I think. The site owner, SuperDan, seems to have put things on autopilot. Won't be a surprise if he sells it. zcar.com got sold years ago and was moderated by some sort of committee that used the same account name. "something"boy, I think it was. It was a different person responding whenever you reported something. Their purpose was just to keep the site functional, they knew nothing abut the content. It was just a place for Google ads. Apparently it's different now, but I haven't been there for years.

Green Bay, WI. Watching the Packers games. Lambeau Field. It's a party.

Don't overlook that the torque range is wide (probably) because it's an adjustment range. Torque to the minimum number then measure end play and preload. If it's not right go a little tighter. If you get all the way to 239 and things still aren't right there's probably a problem.

Here's what they've sold, but they don't show the selling price. https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/sold-inventory.htm?model=[240Z]&orderby=make Here's what they have, way overpriced. https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/inventory.htm?model=[240Z]&orderby=make,year

I thought these guys were a southern band because they sang about New Orleans. Turns out they're from Canadia. The lead guitar guy is excellent.

If the quote says "cash - full price, will pick up" it's probably worth hanging on to. But if it has contingencies like "after arrival and inspection" I'd avoid them. Some of these places will get people in to a bind so that they have to take a lower price. Just be careful. Since it runs and drives and you're in the middle of the country, coast-to-coast, it wouldn't be a surprise if somebody bought it and tried to drive it home. Spring is coming and people have been cooped up. You have good odds. You could probably find a garage with a lift that will let you take some pictures while it's up. The work you put in before you advertise it will make a difference. That green Z in the BAT listing probably left a few thousand behind because they posted a dirty car.

The variant is getting closer. Right around Portland Oregon, they don't know how it got there. https://ktvz.com/news/coronavirus/2021/01/15/multnomah-county-resident-first-in-oregon-with-uk-variant-of-covid-19-virus/ https://covidactnow.org/?s=1520469

This is what harmony01 was known for in the past. His cars never meet reserve. I wonder if he just uses eBay for advertising, then sells the cars through private communication.

Check out some of the BAT listings to see what buyers want to see, and the way they want to see it. Your pictures need work, it makes a difference. Clean it up, make a driving video to show that everything works. You might get over 15,000 if it shines up and runs well. You're pretty far away so if you have shipping options available that will help. Basically, make it easy for a buyer to decide to buy. Here's one - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-162/

This just popped up on a video. Usually I click "Skip" but I didn't. Somebody "filling the void" I guess. Bubble gum isn't healthy. 57+ plus muscles. I never knew about the +. https://jawzrsize.com/

That's crazy. Is there a fence to be whitewashed? Or is it today's guy? Denver, CO. Somebody needs to go look. Maybe it's still there. (I actually missed the date in gundee's post. Where is that thing?).

You need the plate under the AAR if you want things to work well. The coolant heats up the plate which keeps the AAR closed when the engine warms up. It's kind of contorted and a pain to get the lines in there and sealed well but it serves a useful function. The aluminum T-stat housing should be easy to tap. Probably don't even need to drill, just run the tap.

Something seems off center, looks like uneven wear. If you measure the thickness of the bearing pad it should match the thickness of the other forks. Is the fork tight on the shaft? I looked around for pictures and found an interesting transmission parts site. Might be handy. https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-fs5w71a-fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h/

He has a 77 so that is actually the fitting for the coolant line to the plate under the AAR. Looks like #52 here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head/52 Probably hard to find. Many of the threads on the engine are BSPT. Might be able to get an adapter and use an NPT elbow. Or people have had success just jamming NPT in to BSPT holes. Risky. https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings/brass-and-bronze-pipe-and-pipe-fittings/type~adapter/thread-type~bspt/ Browse...https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings Or - @Terrapin Z

Considering all you could look at it this way - standard rings will be slightly larger, better, than the worn-out rings you are replacing, just because they aren't worn. So you'll get a small amount of improved sealing. With a hone the new rings will seat and seal to the new bore but with a slightly too large gap. So, you'll be basically back to where you started, but with new bearings and whatever other work you're planning. Probably valve guides and seals and other things. So, overall, you'll probably be less smoky but it will run as well or better than it did when you took it apart. When the time comes in a couple of years, if you really have only put a few thousand miles on it, you can take it apart and do the bores and pistons and just leave the work you already did. Because the old work will still be almost new. Basically, just hone it and use new standard size rings, then finish the job in a few years. Or, odds are good, it will just run so well that you don't get back to it for ten years. Trying to fit oversize rings probably won't really buy you much, is what I'm saying. Although it would be interesting to try. I don't think you said if you ever heard the engine run or used it. How bad was it?

Just dig in, mentally, to what the nut does, and what the purpose of the crimp over the flat section is for. It seems mysterious but it's actually very crude. It's actually a last safeguard that should never be needed. You could probably torque the nut and never crimp it and 99.99% of the time it would not come loose. Also, consider the chemistry of the thread lockers, which weren't available in the 70's. If you buy a new differential today it will come with thread locker on the bolt for the locking pin. No special crimps or lock washers even though if the lock pin comes loose, it's disaster for the differential. I'd do what zKars says above and add some red Loctite for extra peace of mind. It's just a nut on the end of a shaft. https://nylok.com/