LeonV

Download the FSM and set to factory specs. You will be much farther ahead having done that.

Perfect! LOL

FWIW, never use vise grips on an exposed stud. Instead, lock together two nuts by spinning them into each other and then proceed to loosen. I've learned this lesson more than once... Good luck Yoshi, hope you get it started without trouble! Filling the floats as Captain suggests is a good idea if you want to get it started without cranking forever.

Not a Z, please go ruin a Civic.

Type in "Sidedraft Central" into google and it's the first one to come up. Sidedraft Central

I know Keith Franck of Sidedraft Central has been working with the 2's quite a bit. I think they came standard on the Lotus 7. David Kizer has a paper on tuning his 2's on the board, looks like it was discovered that the progression holes on that carb are too big (among other things), leading to an off-idle stumble. The solution is to use inserts that Keith Franck developed, in order to downsize or even plug some progressions holes.

Definitely, Philip! That place is awesome!

Exactly. My problem with the Unisyn is that it has a big effect on flow into the carb, it's essentially a choke. If you follow the proper directions for using the Unisyn, they say to only keep it on the carb for as short as possible in order to get a good reading. This makes carb-to-carb measurements somewhat tricky and less precise as this method leads to inconsistencies. You also need to make adjustments to on the unisyn in order to get the ball reading in the correct range. The flowmeter takes all the guesswork out of it, and leaves much less room for error. The Weber tool is very easy to read actually, easier than the unisyn. Plus, the graduations are clear and much finer which makes consistent measurements very simple, and there is no adjustment necessary in order to go from idle to high-speed balance. It also has a nice tapered rubber seal to place against the carb inlet. Overall, it is a more accurate and user-friendly tool. The unisyn gets the job done but is more prone to error and a bigger pain to deal with. If I needed a tool to syncronize carbs, I'd get the Weber tool without a doubt, especially considering that they cost the same amount! Carburetor syncronizing is so much quicker and simpler with it. Note that I've never said that a unisyn won't work, it's that the STE just works much better. Like I said, ask someone that's used both, or better yet, try the flowmeter yourself.

Nice job, impressive work!

Nice, looking forward to it! I need to go back to the dyno as well to see what difference my Motorsports header and twice pipes made.

Someone can see the light!!!

It's stamped on the front part of the float cover. Found this online:

You brought up a good point about mixture-balancing when using triple carbs, but beyond that, it is not much help. If that's worth it for anyone then great, but the merits of the tool must be understood.

Steve, I see you're finally taking the plunge into the triples world! Did you have a chance to hop on the dyno with the SUs to have a baseline for a back-to-back comparison?

While it's not my opinion, but rather the facts, that a WBO2 is more helpful than a colortune, and that the flowmeter works better than a unisyn, you all are free to use what you want. I'm simply giving the best advice that I possibly can. Don't let your ego cloud your judgment. Doradox, using the colortune to balance the idle mixture on triples can be somewhat helpful. I consider that a valid point, but do not see a need to get it just for that purpose. However, if you do have one, that would be a good use for it.

Most DCOE Webers have 3 progression holes. The older, Italian-made DCOE has the holes in the right spot and need no alteration whatsoever. FYI, Leon

Your reasoning is sound. In my experience and opinion, I would actually go with Webers instead of Mikunis, partly because of some of the points you mention. You can find Weber parts from multiple vendors, so you probably wouldn't have much of an issue even if you had to rebuild a DCOE. The other reason lies in the developments of retired Lawrence Berkeley NL engineer Keith Franck, of Sidedraft Central, who has been reverse-engineering the DCOE carburetor for 10 years! Through his research, he has developed superior idle-jets and is almost done with his long-awaited new emulsion tube. These new parts make Weber's own idle-jets, and e-tubes obsolete. Therefore, the Weber DCOE is still being developed, while progress on other carbs was halted decades ago. I'm looking forward to Keith's new e-tube, as it is finally supposed to function as it theoretically should. I'm looking forward to my Webers behaving like an EFI car, and getting decent mpg as well. If I were you, I'd find a nice set of used Webers, but you are free to do as you wish!

The colortune and unisyn are obsolete tools left over as vestigial artifacts from a bygone era. You can use them all you want, and I'm sure your Z will run just fine. I can make a stock Z run great using just my ears as well, getting SUs into a working range is relatively simple. You said it yourself, "a Colortune is ineffective and crude when compared to other methods." You can then clearly see that it is completely obsolete and unnecessary today. Even if it is of any help, it can only be used in idle and no-load conditions. It doesn't give you any clue as to what's going on when you're actually driving the car. In the present day, a serious carb (or EFI) tuner should have a Wideband O2. It's like the internet, once you have it, you can't imagine going without. A casual Z owner that needs to set the mixture on their SUs can get by without any mixture measuring tools and go by ear and driveability. SUs only have one circuit, so it is a really simple tuning process. A unisyn costs as much as the STE-SK flowmeter. It is far from being the "best bang for the buck" as its construction and usability is inferior to the Weber flowmeter. Ask anyone that's used both, I have. The OP originally asked about getting a unisyn or STE, and made a point to consider that he plans to go to Webers. The STE is by far the best tool for the job, whether you're dealing with SU, Weber, Mikuni, SK, Dell'orto, etc. A wideband is also critical in getting optimal performance out of these carbs (SUs less so). A colortune will do nothing for him, but waste time.

Yes, forget about the colortune. As I said, it's just a novelty item.

One of this forum's members has one. :tapemouth

Nice, I saw that one on CL in San Jose. Looks like it's getting a good caretaker! I have Eibach springs, Tokico HP dampers, and poly bushings all around on my early 260Z. The ride is stiff but it corners great! I have 225/50-16 tires on 16X7 wheels and they do not rub, the wheels are Panasports but I'm not 100% sure on the exact offset. Your tires look pretty beefy, what's the size?

The Unisyn is clunky at best, and the colortune is more of a novelty. Get an STE-SK syncrometer, and you will love it. It doesn't choke the carb (like a unisyn) and is very easy to use. It works great on the SUs as well as the Webers. Also, a Wideband O2 sensor and gauge are an invaluable tool for fine tuning your fueling, whether you have carbs or EFI. With the SUs, you can probably get by without a WBO2, but you're really going to want it with triples as they have multiple circuits to play with.

I would find a used set, if you're going with 40DCOE carbs. The reason for this is that the older 40DCOE 18 has proper progression hole placement, unlike the new 40DCOE 151. You will need to drill a new progression hole in the 151s in order to have proper carb operation. I'm sure people with the 151s have been masking the transition bog issue (dreaded flat-spot) with an overly rich idle mixture, but drilling a new hole is best. Otherwise, a set of 40PHH Mikunis would be just as good, for you purposes. FWIW, I bought a complete used set of triple Webers for $600 a couple of years ago. I bolted them on last year and haven't touched them since. You can find similar deals if you look around and wait long enough. Webers are really easy to set up, once you understand what's going on. For those interested in learning more than you wanted to know about Weber DCOE carburetors, join the Sidedraft Central Yahoo group and browse the library there.

Not exactly. In the typical US 240Z VIN, the H means L24 engine (or L28 on a 280Z VIN), the L means left-hand drive, and obviously the S30 signifies the body style. We are discussing a JDM Fairlady, which came with an L20A (no H in the VIN) and right-hand drive (No L in VIN). Also, JDM cars did not have an engine number on the ID plate in the engine bay.

Time to replace your booster.