Zedrally

Thought maybe something along these lines. This originates from an Excel Worksheet. Any idea where I can upload this to on this site so others can download and add to it? Year 1962? 1965? 69? 1969 Common Roadster 240Z 260Z Name 1500 2000 S-30 HS30 GRS30 S130 [don't know model #]

Well....I guess a start on paper would be at least a start. Anyone pasted a Excell sheet [.xls] or Publisher [.pub] file to the group or better still Mod Mike might be able to suggest how to host the tree, seperate file ???? Alan, why not start at the S series, general dates would be OK such as year, unless someone has better knowledge of a more exact build month. From there we can branch out to HS and HLS etc. Can we assume the roadsters are the trunk to the sports series? MOM

How about if we look at the small picture first and add to it? ie S and it's varients with an approx time as a basis for the Zed series. Possibly Kats could assist with correctly aimed questions? As far as I'm aware there where only 2 Roadster models, would I be right in assuming that these would be the trunk of the "sports" tree?

No argument from me, Where ther any cars of interest prior to the Roadsters?

Has anyone a family tree of the Datsun/Nissan Family, complete with time line?

Bugger, Just when I thought I had the oldest 240 # 103305. Anyone for any older than halz?

Hmmmm, I think you might be right Halz. 2wd is limited to 6Litres 4wd to 2Litres. I gather the 350 is 4wd and would be is FIA Group N?

Mick, If they did and brought it out here, it would end up as the Godzilla debacle one more time.

Huh! I knew you couldn't let that one pass....... Further proof of the RHD Theory..... MOM

Don't want to be a wet blanket Ash, but you've got buckleys chance of convincing the Historic Commission . Save youre money as many have thrown a lot away trying or if you really want to run triples in competition legally, then come over to Historic Rallying and run PRC. Cheers MOM [knighted iIke of the Mire, after the last bogging]!

Better still, get him to join this group!

Interesting that they would crash test a shell only? I would have thought a complete car [motor, gearbox etc] in the front end would give a better indication of how the unibody withstands a headon? Wonder at what speed the front folded in this pic?

I remember reading that the oil pump should be primed before fitting.

Double Blah from me as well. How the ZX can be equated to the 240/260/280 has me lost!

Under hard acceleration? Sounds more like pinging? Check timing or use a higher octane fuel.

Bet the shell has just been sand blasted!

Absolutely not available as an option.

POwer windows became available in ZX models. It is possible that the 73 has been modified, I remember a thread about power mirrors from ZX posted a while back [may have been on the mail list].

Dizzy caps are different, Had problems with Electronic Dizzies, so I chucked it out and went back to points.

HAve you checked for spark?

Gav, Have you been following the Alternator, Condenser, Ideas thread? You both appear to have similar problems, perhaps all is in the capacitor. I had a similar experiance, possibily worse as the engine idled OK but cut out under load. All was traced back to the cap. IN this case it had a break in the little wire and would be intermitent in use. MOM

MY guess is that it's in the bolt you found. In other words that conector to the plastic is/should be insulated from the dizzy body. Somehow you've created a short and that explains why no activity at the coil side. IMHO you may be better raiding another nissan for a replacement dizzy or send out yours for a re-build. MOM

Not surprisingly my 260 is difficult to start as well. I've still got the original flat tops and found it easier to start after the fuel pump has filled the carbie bowls. Turn the ignition on and listen to the pump, it will start clicking. When the bowls are full it changes sound. At this point I consider the carbie's full and use the choke to prime the engine. Hope this helps. MOM

AZ, if you need an accurate gauge then you will need to ditch the Factory Gauge. Whilst all the theory is spot on, what most people forget is the actual construction of the gauge itself. It is not direct reading nor does it fuction as a normal meter. The needle indications are processed [if thats the correct word] bu the heating of a bi-metal metal strip via a heating coil. The fluctuation of the strip then moves the needle. Consequently an in-accurate reading of coolent temp is obtained in hot climates due to the ambient temp inside the car. Most Zed owners will attest to the in-accuracy of the factory gauge and take any reasonable reading around the centre as "normal". Why not just add a digital gauge. There are many kits out in the market that offer an accurate gauge at a reasonable price. HIH MOM

Opposite of RAM!