TomoHawk

Don't forget that Bot BullRun rallies are by invitation. It makes you wonder if you need mega-bux or some serious connections to get in on the open-road rally. For the Televised rally, tho, I've seen an ad for a contest sponsored by CarDomain.com, that is supposed to get you into the rally somehow. Probably next years's rally, if there is one. thx

Sorry, I forgot the relay itself. If you ground pin 1, the horns should sound. Pin 2 should be hot (12v) so check that too, straight away. Then follow the wiring if you have to. Whatever it is, it'll be simple.

The relay bracket.

Horns- plural. At least one should still work, unless both went bad. The click is probably the horn relay. You could take the horn pad off to get to the wire that activates the relay. When the wire is gounded, the relay should activate (click) and the horns go off. You could also activate the relay by going into the connector under the steering collumn ( and inside the column cover.) If the relay is clicking, then there must be a break in the wiring someplace. Check the grounds, & horn connectors, then check your wiring diagram, it's a simple circuit. The relay is on the relay bracket above the fuse block, and has 3 pins, iirc. Just don't go around without the horn fuse installed- it also runs the brake lights.

Arne, Instead of leaving your spook spoiler gel coat plain, what about coating it with bedliner stuff? You could even dye it to a close color to the car instead of the natural bedliner color. there is also that clear protective coating for the lower body panels.

I would say that the amount of horsepower needed to turn the a/c pump depends on the pressure inside when compressing. I forget the equation, but you can directly relate psi to horespower. Don't forget to add a little for friction, slop or the current date.

Now you know why they used to say that it was more fuel efficient to drive with the window down, as opposed to using the air conditioning. Those old piston compressors ( like on vintage Mustangs) must have needed 20 horsepower just to keep them going, compared to the newer rotary pumps. Even the four-bangers now come stock with a/c now, and they still get 30+ MPG.

I agree that interior parts are difficult to find, but it's even more difficult to find interior parts that aren't cracked already. Every time the dealer tech works on the inside of my car, something seems to break off. I'm seriously thinking of beating new ones out of aluminum, and painting them with krinkle paint. thx

Can you find the dashpot for the fresh-air door? thx

I got a reply to my email question to him, and he said that even at 11.8 Volts, it should work, and his emphasis was on the current consumption of up to about 15 Amps.

I mainly use JB weld to fill gaps and make fillets on the model boat engines, and occasionally on anything else like you would with epoxy. I will use it only on rare occasions to join parts. I have also used the aluminum soldering rods (http://durafix.com) for repairs and fills with success, but mostly on the model boat engines, and the occasional soda can.

Were those pics from the BullRun "Race?" The one where they actually drive fast, and no Spike TV/Bill Goldberg? The story on the (police car) must be interesting, and I'm sure it had raised a few eyebrows, even in the U.S. I'd love to run the rally, or any rally, FTM, but I don't think my car is up to it, mechanically. IMO, the car is limited to 3500 RPM or 70 MPH with the engine & trans combination it has, but the gas mileage is decent (about 300 miles/tank.) The choice of navigator shouldn't be too hard for me. I'm easy to get along with, and my style of driving is easy to learn ( I just like some lead time before lane changes/exits/turns/etc.) That's why I like my Mapopolis software. Finding a navigator close to home is tough tho; everybody's busy. I could probably pick one up someplace, like on the way, like you suggest. thx

FYI, here are the rules ( the ones that were posted to the BullRun forum): 1. No GPS or Satellite Navigation systems can be used. 2. No cell phones. 3. No laptop computers. 4. No radio or CD player. 5. Speeding = severe penalties. Arrest = disqualification. 6. Each start of day, cars can only leave when instructed to do so. 7. Cars must start and finish each day under their own power, or the power of their drivers. 8. Cars outside the maximum time allowed for each leg get picked up by the ‘reaper’ and towed – they’re then out. l #1: obviously no help allowed because they want you to navigate so you can get lost! #4 is an odd rule. Why no music? It could be considered a safety measure, but not allowing the radio, means you'll need teamwork to keep going & to keep your sanity. There may be another reasons ( interferes with the cabin-cam?). #6 could use some clarification. In the show, it looks like a kind of LeMans start, but if they're timing the cars, they should wait for the starter to tell them when to leave, and the mad dash you see on TV could be for show, or to see who gets to start first, which has some effect on the finish order, because you can employ tricks like blocking the road so a car can't get ahead of you. Some lamers on the BullRun forum were claimining that the show is lame because they mistakenly think it's a "race." Nope... it's a Rally, so speed isn't exactly the highest priority. They stress the highway-legal speeds constantly, and that's a good thing, IMO. You'll even see the occasional message on the bottom reminding you that "driving while tired is bad" or other stuff (peeing while driving?) So I'll side with the show's producers, who are giving you entertainment without glorifying the illegal stuff. Then they even throw in the extended challenge in the mid-day- checkpoint to help even things out- or mess you up more, depending. There has only been one incident yet (currently on Day 6) that had one team video another speeding (Rule #5), and things almost got physical at the end of the day. Mr. Goldberg should have reminded the teams they need to police themselves, so if one team messes up, that the breaks, even though there are two camera cars, and a helicopter constantly there with the video going. IMO, Mr. Goldberg's un-aired comments are very funny! For a big guy with attitude, money, and a repputation, he can really be a sport with the practical jokes on himself. I would like to see a little documentation about how the show is put on. I figure there are two teams of girls, trucks, and RVs. They're constantly leap-frogging to set up the next day's stop so it's ready when the cars get there in the afternoon for the checkpoint/competition, then in the evening. Too bad the show is long over, so maybe they'll do it the next time. thx

Did you prepare the surface correctly? It needs to be degreased and sanded to adhere well.

You don't need one.

if you can press your fingernail or put fingerprints into "cured" JB Weld, then it means that it still hasn't cured yet, probably because the mix wasn't mixed thoroughly, or the proportions were just a hair off. The temperature during cure can affect the cure harness too. I still have a few blobs on the bench that haven't completely hardened after many months, with different mix ratios; the one mixed up properly hardened as you would expect. thx

I wonder how well the electricals are on it. Do you think the lights are as bright as when new? What do you think it'll go for at the end?

there's a 78 in my club with even less mileage on it.

Watching Bull Run today, one car split a transmission hose, and it gives me the idea to include on the list one or two ( as appropriate) barbed hose couplers, of the type to fit fuel lines or trans hoses. 3/16 or 5/16" ( 6 or 8mm)? Don't forget to include already on your list a few hose clamps of different sizes ( IMO, 1 or 2 radiator hose clamps, and 2 or 3 fuel line clamps.) Of course, if you're travelling in a group, you can divide the parts up. thx

If you scroll down to the comments below the checklist area, you'll see that he refers to the car as a "1978" 280ZX" ?

For you northwest U.S. property owners, this is where the Bull Run rally has been to so far ( 4/17) Whitefish, MT Athol, ID Seattle, WA Portland,OR Winchester Bay, OR Redding, CA Vallejo, CA Alameda,CA Reno,NV winnemucca,NV Elko, NV Wendover, UT Salt Lake City, UT Anybody have an idea of how you could map that entire route, and maybe post a picture of the map? BTW- the Nissan 240SX was eliminated on the first day. :hurt: 6 more legs to go (6 shows/weeks) SPIKE TV, 10pm ET, Tuesdays thx

When I got my 280Z, the dor locks were iffy, and the hatch lock was barely working, so I replaced it with one from an MGA. It's the same deal, but has a thumb pull on it. It uses a different key tho. I opened the hatch to get to the door lock, until I got the door locks fixed.

That's the kind of stuff I was eferring to. It has the leak sealer and it will inflate your tires ( some.) I've seen some less expensive ones in the WalMart that had slime-type stuff in it. It's much less expensive than the $75 oem can of air you can get at the dealer. I already had that on my list of stuff. BTW, to lessen the amount of stuffin each car, and still have everything on the list, I would suggest that you divide up the list of stuff, and everybody carry a portion of the more common things. Some people will need to take their own specialized parts ( like radiator hoses & fan belts) and I think everyone should carry some things, like 1gal. of water, snacks, first aid kit.) thx

Ther eare many kinds of Telon-bearing oils, greases and powders. The originals were called Triflow (Teflon-oil) and TriFlon (a dry powder.). I got a tub of Teflon-bearing grease from the autoparts store called OneGrease, from the Slick-50 people. Usesparingly ( get yourself some little cheap paintbrushes.) While you have your doorpanels off, don't forget to check the keylock itself. Try not to get grease on the glass. thx.

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